Community Forums

lawjohnson · 02-06-2019, 04:53 PM

Hi all,

I have a 98 Holiday Rambler Endeavor DP and I'm having a problem with the fresh water pump... I think.

Here is what is going on:
de-winterized it two weeks ago and all went fine. I disinfected the fresh water tank and lines, again all went well. I got the hot water heater all connected and back in line and here is where the problem starts.

I'm getting a lot of air out of the hot side on all the faucets, none on the cold side. Also today a noticed that the pump was repressurizing a couple of times an hour. I'm not hooked up to shore services.
I have made sure that the hot water heater has been bled and there is no air there or in any of the lines.
I have read about pump seals going out but not sure if that is the issue hear.
We have been all over the coach and can not find any small water leaks that would cause the pump to cycle.

Thanks in advance for any help all!!

Larry Johnson

ThePowells · 02-06-2019, 04:58 PM

Are you sure that all three valves for the water heater have been correctly changed back to normal?
If you turn on hot water and the pump doesn't cycle or only for a few seconds it's holding pressure in that side.

TXTiger · 02-06-2019, 06:10 PM

Before I got my Class A I had a toy hauler. Changed the water pump 3 times due to a bad check valve. You may have a bad valve. Depending on the age of your pump you can just replace the check valve. If it’s an old pump you may consider changing the entire pump. A new pump is only about $150.

Ray,IN · 02-07-2019, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXTiger

Before I got my Class A I had a toy hauler. Changed the water pump 3 times due to a bad check valve. You may have a bad valve. Depending on the age of your pump you can just replace the check valve. If it’s an old pump you may consider changing the entire pump. A new pump is only about $150.

Those same(brand/model) $150 pumps are <$100 at a local farm supply store since the store sign doesn't say RV parts.

rarebear.nm · 02-07-2019, 10:07 PM

When you bleed the hot side did you open the hot water heater relief valve on the top of the tank? That's the best way to quickly bleed off air. You did not say if you filled the system with antifreeze or blew out the lines? How long have you allowed the air to pass on the hot side? It may take several minutes to clear those lines.

If there is not air from the cold side that reduces the problem, a lots. Can you see if there is any sign of mineral build up on the pump face? That's a sign of pump seals failing. Is the fresh water tank reasonable full? If its low the pump may be sucking air, but then you would expect air on the cold side too. Is there any sign of leakage any where on or around the water heater? You could have a pump check valve gone bad as pointed out above.

lawjohnson · 02-08-2019, 11:21 PM

Yeah Fred I did. I did the normal de-winterize on this. Someone said something about three valves on the hot water heater but there is only one marked normal and bypass.
i have done a bit more investigating; there is still no air on the cold side. When you first start the hot there are a lot of what I call champagne bubbles. The longer I let the pump run, the less bubbles there are. After about 30 seconds it is clearing up and running the same as the cold side. I have not had a chance to hook it up to shore water since we are having a snow storm here and everything is frozen.

rarebear.nm · 02-09-2019, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lawjohnson

Yeah Fred I did. I did the normal de-winterize on this. Someone said something about three valves on the hot water heater but there is only one marked normal and bypass.
i have done a bit more investigating; there is still no air on the cold side. When you first start the hot there are a lot of what I call champagne bubbles. The longer I let the pump run, the less bubbles there are. After about 30 seconds it is clearing up and running the same as the cold side. I have not had a chance to hook it up to shore water since we are having a snow storm here and everything is frozen.

Sounds like its getting better for you, maybe. I understand the snow storm and frozen limits. Most times I start flushing the antifreeze and air out of the system via the city water connection when I can allow it to run for extended times as needed. Then I add water to the tank and flush out the pump related lines.

I used to "enjoy" champagne" bubbles when attaching city water at campgrounds until I added a double valved Y connector between the city water hose and the RV. I hook it all up and then open only the "second" Y valve to bled air out of the supply hose and then switch to the RV valve. No more cheap champagne out of the water lines.