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speed racer · 01-27-2018, 06:37 AM

If you turn the key on and not start the engine the fuel pump only runs for a few seconds and shuts off.

Sprinkroadog · 01-29-2018, 11:41 AM

Thanks for reply. Do you know if Airtex fuel pump E3982m or the carter p74758m a good pump for my rig. Or any suggestions?

Sprinkroadog · 01-29-2018, 11:46 AM

I pulled valve cover, and push rods, springs and rocker arms all look good.

robbiels7 · 01-29-2018, 11:48 AM

Airtex is not too bad I have seen a few that need to be warrantied out. If you want reliability and it's not that much more I would go with AC Delco.

Sprinkroadog · 01-29-2018, 11:48 AM

Anyone know of good after market pumps that are good? Any part numbers for Airtex , Carter, Spectra, or AC Delco?

robbiels7 · 01-29-2018, 11:55 AM

Not sure about a part number. Do you know if it's a fuel pump module or just the pump itself? Not sure if it could be in reference to the Chevy 2500 3500 with the eight 8.1 in it. maybe try to call Napa see if they can cross-reference it. You may have to pull it out and see if there's a part number on it.

Jim_HiTek · 01-29-2018, 12:21 PM

Here's a Holley at $125...https://www.autozone.com/fuel-system...nia/223404_0_0

Back in 2004 I paid $55 for an Airtex 8 PSI external plus some money for brass fittings to match my fuel hose. It ran fine on my rear diesel engine for as long as I owned it until 2016 when I sold it. It's probably still running fine for the new owner.

I was told once by my race car buddy that fuel pumps need to be stored in the liquid you intend to pump. Gas or diesel. Plug one orifice, fill the other with (in your case) gas, plug the 2nd orifice. So if you are just going to carry one for 'backup' that's the way to do it, otherwise the seals dry up and crumble after a couple years. This is the reason automotive suppliers don't have many on their shelves.

Sprinkroadog · 01-31-2018, 04:47 AM

Robbiels7: Normally buy parts at NAPA as 2002 Suburban 2500. So far so good. Was going to go ahead and order pump online but wasn't sure on some aftermarket one. Did find info on OEMYS online for part number cross ref. Probably pull pump then take it to NAPA. Thank You.

robbiels7 · 01-31-2018, 05:03 AM

The vortex style distributors have a bad habit of wearing the lower gear and you can put it out of timing. If you can see your timing on a scan tool you should be negative 2 two + 2. That can cause it also to run really bad and brother fuel at the wrong time.

MoCoTom · 01-31-2018, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robbiels7

The vortex style distributors have a bad habit of wearing the lower gear and you can put it out of timing. If you can see your timing on a scan tool you should be negative 2 two + 2. That can cause it also to run really bad and brother fuel at the wrong time.

The 8.1 vortec in the OP's motorhome does not have a distributor

robbiels7 · 01-31-2018, 05:30 AM

Okay sorry I did not realize that is an 8 coil set up sorry.

Sprinkroadog · 02-02-2018, 04:52 PM

So to update, I removed fuel rail on bank two. Removed all injectors and visually inspected them. They all look okay. I pressured fuel rail up with injectors on, and no visible leaks from injectors. I removed 6 and 8 plugs and they are wet with gas. Fpr is holding therefore ruling out fuel entering through intake. I am suspecting coil pak not enough spark. I checked with plug in tester and all seems to be firing. Going to attemt to clean injectors tomorrow and try to check ohms on coil paks.

Sprinkroadog · 02-02-2018, 04:57 PM

The only problem with blowing compressed air is you can't blow through supply line cause of check valve and return line dumps into canister and therefore not blow out screen of debris. Thanks for the advice though, because if you blow through supply line, you can check the check valve, if you don't hear air in tank and it blows back, check valve is working.