Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppler1963
I’m not understanding the 7 volts. I’m looking for a schematic to see if it clears it up for me. Also I took the pump and connected it to my battery it worked. Connected it back to tank connector and it works now. Placed it in a bucket of clean fuel and the engine fired up and ran good. I put welcome.
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A couple of things. First the fuel pump will only run for about 10 seconds when you key on and the engine is NOT running. To me, it seems odd that you are getting ANY voltage after that 10 seconds !
Second, I don't remember when Ford started doing this, but they went to a "returnless" fuel system about the time your chassis was built. Original EFI systems would pump a large quantity of fuel up to the engine. A mechanical fuel pressure regulator would send the excess back to the tank. This caused hot fuel and excess vapors in the tank. The solution was a separate electronic fuel pressure controller that would pulse width modulate the voltage to the pump. Some meters might register this as less than 12V.
In your case, it sounds like simple corrosion on a connector that got "cleaned" from unplugging and plugging it back in.
Last, don't use a meter for this type of testing. Use an old fashioned, non-LED, 12V test light. This will put a load on the circuit. If you have approximately 12V, you will have a bright light. Less than 12V, dim. Some mechanics make up a HD test light (2 stop/turn signal bulbs). This would draw about 4-5A.