Full body paint waxing question

[harleyjt]

They are really proud of that stuff!
jt

[Blaster]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

Nu-Finish paste....lasts a year if you use car washing soap.....

I also use nu- Finish, and use Meguiar's wash soap. Wax every other year, wash after every use, and it stays in the garage when not being used. 16 years old and looks like new. inside storage is the key, wax can only do so much.

[Bob_C]

Nu Finish is like Rejex.....

[GEM1N1]

Anyone have a magic bullet for paint swirls? We have them in our black and dark paint areas.

[GEM1N1]

Question for the power buffer users. I’m looking at the new Rupes mark ii

https://www.amazon.com/Rupes-Mark-Ra.../dp/B01CKI3YRK

What pads and polish do you use for taking swirls and holograms out of your paint?

Also, how many pads and how much polish does it take to do a coach?

[Betr2Trvl]

Originally Posted by GEM1N1

Question for the power buffer users. I’m looking at the new Rupes mark ii

https://www.amazon.com/Rupes-Mark-Ra.../dp/B01CKI3YRK

What pads and polish do you use for taking swirls and holograms out of your paint?

Also, how many pads and how much polish does it take to do a coach?

Go back to my post (#15) early in this thread, and read through the links of other threads to get more insight on polishing, and check out web sites of product providers to see “how to” videos. BTW, you have the same paint imperfections you see in the dark colors in your light colors..... I’ll also make note that the care you take in washing / drying has the biggest impact on your paint condition than anything; lots of discussion on that in those links as well; and once you let “Two Schumcks with a Truck and a Brush” mobile detailing touch your RV, its all a gamble at that point......

I’m not going to get into back and forth on what products are best for what, but I general refer to companies I have used over the years. I reference Griot’s Garage and Adams Polishes; Autogeek is also good, but novices can easily get lost there.

A few quick thoughts, which are all covered to one degree or another in the linked threads noted above.

Rupes machines are certainly well respected products by avid detailers and professionals; it also appears (but not certain) to me that the Griots Boss machine is a private labled Rupes.

Wether Griots or Adams or most other companies, they can help you match pads to Polishes. No matter what products you decide on, call and talk to thier people to ensure you are getting appropriate products to use given your skills and expectations.

Doing multi cut Polishes (heavy cut, medium cut, finish / final cut) on an RV would make a daunting task even more so. I have found that the Griots Complete Compound (heavier initial cut) and Groits Complete Polish (finer initial cut) break down to a fine enough cut (on an RV at least, and even my Jeep) that you don’t have to use a final finish cut.

I’ve only had to do a full polish on my entire coach twice, and in each case did not use a full bottle of polish. Bay doors do get done more often, even just a light go over, and I also had to do most of my passenger side one time when some campground water sprinkers left some nasty water spots. That said, my paint was / is in very good condition and I did not have to do much in the way of heavy paint correction.

Just in closing, whatever you decide, don’t buy from Amazon, buy from a detailing company and leverage their expertise.

Hope that helps.....

Regards

[GEM1N1]

Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl

Go back to my post (#15) early in this thread, and read through the links of other threads to get more insight on polishing, and check out web sites of product providers to see “how to” videos. BTW, you have the same paint imperfections you see in the dark colors in your light colors..... I’ll also make note that the care you take in washing / drying has the biggest impact on your paint condition than anything; lots of discussion on that in those links as well; and once you let “Two Schumcks with a Truck and a Brush” mobile detailing touch your RV, its all a gamble at that point......

I’m not going to get into back and forth on what products are best for what, but I general refer to companies I have used over the years. I reference Griot’s Garage and Adams Polishes; Autogeek is also good, but novices can easily get lost there.

A few quick thoughts, which are all covered to one degree or another in the linked threads noted above.

Rupes machines are certainly well respected products by avid detailers and professionals; it also appears (but not certain) to me that the Griots Boss machine is a private labled Rupes.

Wether Griots or Adams or most other companies, they can help you match pads to Polishes. No matter what products you decide on, call and talk to thier people to ensure you are getting appropriate products to use given your skills and expectations.

Doing multi cut Polishes (heavy cut, medium cut, finish / final cut) on an RV would make a daunting task even more so. I have found that the Griots Complete Compound (heavier initial cut) and Groits Complete Polish (finer initial cut) break down to a fine enough cut (on an RV at least, and even my Jeep) that you don’t have to use a final finish cut.

I’ve only had to do a full polish on my entire coach twice, and in each case did not use a full bottle of polish. Bay doors do get done more often, even just a light go over, and I also had to do most of my passenger side one time when some campground water sprinkers left some nasty water spots. That said, my paint was / is in very good condition and I did not have to do much in the way of heavy paint correction.

Just in closing, whatever you decide, don’t buy from Amazon, buy from a detailing company and leverage their expertise.

Hope that helps.....

Regards

Thanks for the tips. I ended up ordering the Rupes polisher and Rupes pads.

Foreseeing the beating of multiple passes on this size of a project I spent a lot of time researching the all in ones for the light swirling and landed on the Griot’s one step sealant.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...tep+sealant.do

I went ahead and ordered their complete show system of polishes for a couple of spots i have concerns with what they did to the paint at the dealership with their “wheel guy”.

Hopefully this works. Appreciate the help.

[Frobogey]

Try Nu-Finish Liquid 10 bucks and easy and if after a year not satisfied go crazy on something else more expensive and more work but I bet you'll stay with Nu-Finish

[mlh2013]

Originally Posted by Frobogey

If you have full body paint, it has been painted with basecoat / clearcoat. No need to wax . My 2008 Itasca 38j looks like new and has never been waxed. If you must do it use Nu-Finish Liquid. Quick and Easy and nothing works better or lasts longer. The only thing waxing does is make it easier to wash.

Well I have read lots and lots of good about Nu-Finish, how easy it is to apply and remove. So I washed the coach and got a bottle of Nu-Finish and went to work. I must be doing something wrong, I have done one side and the front, and it looks great, but taking it off is really hard. I'm using very little and applying it with a orbital buffer. What am I doing wrong? It's wearing me out.

[Bob_C]

Using damp cloth to apply?

[Bob_C]

I'm currently doing my 5er with the paste, and having no problem....

[Winemaker2]

Damp cloth or pad to apply helps. Microfiber to take off.
I usually apply by hand and not very hard. If it needs it will use a DA machine w swirl remover & foam pad to prep surface.

[AFChap]

Don't complicate things … your painted coach has clearcoat over the paint EXACTLY LIKE YOUR CAR. Something like Turtle Wax Wash 'n Wax will do a great job with minimal work … mix it in the water, wet the coach with a hose, wipe the water wash 'n wax mixture on the coach with a wash mit or soft wash brush, hose it off and let it dry. If you really want to put more effort into it, wipe it down with a chamois, micro fiber or something similar. NOTHING more required.

[mlh2013]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

Using damp cloth to apply?

No I was not damping the pad. I missed that part on the directions, It works much better now. Thanks