Gelcoat restoration

[Itasca66]

Interesting I will try some 600 g again and get some 3m Finesse also .. I did try 600g then 1500g then compound in a spot it took all texture off gelcoat I was thinking I was taking off more then needed but if 3 M Finesse
Could meet a half way point .
I will try it .. it's a huge job I'm maybe only 1/4 of the way done so far. Decals are a pain to get close to without damaging them
My rig being older my graphics are simple compared to newer rigs.

Itasca66

[ftodaro]

Boatman10

What is it about the random orbit unit that is not good for compounding? I have one but I was planning on getting a standard circular anyway, just wonder is it that it does not get enough polishing action.

A few other questions how much of the 3M high gloss gelcoat compound 06025 will i need for a 36 ft Motorhome?

What brand wax would you recommend?

Also do you wet the wool pad or just apply the compound and go?

[boatman10]

any random orbit/double action machine is just not aggressive enough to compound properly, its a waxing machine not a compounding machine...it might be fine for POLISHING PAINT with Nufinish, which is a polish not a wax........its in the action.

two gallons should do a decent size MH but a 44fter would take 3 maybe....and a shorty maybe only 1gal.

3M 06025 is the only compound to use Itasca66.....you can not get 600G scratches out cause you are using the wrong compound [too fine]........1500G and Finestit are for urethane paint.......you do not have to use them on gelcoat you are making work for yourself.

put the compound ON the surface[never on the pad] with a 3-4" brush spreading it out as thin as possible.....if you have 80%+ of your 2'x2' work square covered thats ok..

since all machines turn clockwise, start at the upper right side of your work box[2'x2']
using the top of the pad, with good pressure move DOWN to the bottom of square corner.....then at bottom move pad over 1-2" moving it up to top of square then repeat....you do not have to lift machine and pad

you are then constantly dragging off new compound into work area......do not ever start at left n go to right!

IMPORTANT: use slowest speed or next slowest speed on variable speed buffer/sander.....faster speed SLINGS off the compound..with good pressure

after you've done the initial compounding pass, lighten up the pressure and go over area then finish off at high speed with less pressure.

there is only one best way to do this.....i was taught this at 3M school[i have tried ALL the other manufacturers compounds tho, none measure up].....this is the way any professional compounds gelcoat that knows what he's doing.

i also bought double sided wool pads by the case.......use a 2" extender fitting on the machine to keep pad from hitting machine body.


there are THREE different Finnesit grits and a glaze....glaze FILLS up scratches.......glaze can be washed out by soap..........we used finnesit on urethane paint jobs n repairs....that's what they are intended for.

[boatman10]

we would glaze a mold only......since glaze is water n sunlight sensitive and molds are never in the sun.

glaze will make something just alittle shinier....really if youve compounded correctly it won't help much and will not last long in the sun....if you are waxing every year or six months and keep RV undercover it may be worth it.

one problem we face here is many RV exteriors are not really gelcoat......the fiberglass panels are colored all the way thru and have a swirl of long filament fiberglass in them...you can see this pattern if u look closely....this surface however responds great to 06025.

but at some point esp if u wetsand you are getting into the fibers....they will start to show but not terribly really.

at some point if you want your rig to look perfect it must be painted.....i just painted mine.

[boatman10]

that someone who waxes from fairly new and stays ahead of it....maybe stores indoors.....should be able to keep a RV looking very good....

older stuff can be brought back to a degree of course

i do not have a favorite wax.......but carnuba is the key ingredient....

but do not wax urethane paint....the paint people will tell you not to.......you use polish....like Nufinish.

[ftodaro]

Originally Posted by boatman10

that someone who waxes from fairly new and stays ahead of it....maybe stores indoors.....should be able to keep a RV looking very good....

older stuff can be brought back to a degree of course

i do not have a favorite wax.......but carnuba is the key ingredient....

but do not wax urethane paint....the paint people will tell you not to.......you use polish....like Nufinish.

Do you like the 7 inch or 9 inch pad size? i would think that the smaller pad may be easier to control. Your comments are vary helpful. Good specific info. I have my winter project this year.

[boatman10]

is the 7".

[JeffAZ]

I know nothing about gelcoat, and there seem to be a couple of experts in this thread, so please let me pick your brains. I want to replace the front decal on my motorhome. It sat in my driveway for 3 years facing the Arizona sun after I purchased it used. Now I have it garaged, so I want to replace that 9 y.o. decal with the new OUTLAW decal.

So I have completed removal of the toasted decal on the "hood" of my motorhome. I used only a plastic razor, and the stripes and swirls came off very easily, usually in one piece. The actual letters were more difficult, coming off in little pieces, like maybe they were a different material and adhesive. The letters also were a lot more sun-faded that the other decals.

I then used 'Rapid Remover" cleaner, which bubbled up the adhesive remnants, which was then easily wiped off. I have the ghosted effect, which I expected, but why is there some greenish color showing under the old decals, especially under the letters? Is that the bare fiberglass shining thru the gelcoat? I plan to place a new decal here, same font as the new OTL's, without any swirls or stripes. So the ghosted areas won't be completely obliterated by the new decal.

So after reading thru this thread, do you think I can do some of the compounding and waxing techniques described to get rid of the ghosting and green hue to restore the gelcoat before I apply the new decal?

[Itasca66]

Yes test in small spots to see what works . Others might of did under decals . I haven't had to yet.

Itasca66

[Winemaker2]

I don't have the credentials some others here have but have redone boat names on several fiberglass boats.

I have used compound and / or swirl remover for prep.
I would not do wax before applying any decals.
I've had good luck with Collinite cleaner on fiberglass

[Winemaker2]

Boatman
Any experience with or comments on a Flex DA machine?
I believe it is the only DA polisher that is positive drive on both motions.
I've been pretty happy w mine using swirl remover to add shine to lightly oxidized gel coat.

[boatman10]

i am sure the DA machine is fine for lightly oxidized gelcoat......and using Finnesit on paint.....no one in the production fiberglass business uses them on gelcoat they take longer to achieve the same shine......running a buffer is not that hard, esp for older people with more time--do a small section a day.....i had women wetsanding and buffing....since they are nit pickers by gender they did better jobs than men......also they are incomparable when rolling air out of fiberglass laminante.

collinite is good stuff, just not as good as 06025 3M for gelcoat.

jeffAZ----GREEN under decals----i have seen this before.....the slightly greenish[or other] color is EITHER 1) a reaction of the gelcoat to the particular adhesive used by the decal.....you should DEFINITELY be able to wetsand that out with 600G n buff shiny with 06025..... [1000-1500G if you are using a compound designed for paint]...ORRR 2) it is the ORIGINAL color of the gelcoat that was not sunbleached out because it was protected by the decal......in that case wetsanding will bring back the original color TO SOME DEGREE......i'd leave it alone n get new decal on straight.

either way, if you get the new decal back on over it, even if not perfect i doubt you could see it around the edge......be sure to use slightly soapy water to put decal on with.....and do not fret small air bubbles they will dissappear [surely do not poke themwith a needle!]....squeegee from center out....

[JeffAZ]

Thanks for the response, F Scott, but I am not re-applying the same decal design. It will cover most of the square inch-age of the old decal, but will be a completely different font, so there will be no lining up the letters to completely cover the greenish hue.

The original gelcoat is the white. So I will be trying to sand that out to restore as much as possible before applying the new decal.

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by JeffAZ

...there will be no lining up the letters to completely cover the greenish hue.

The original gelcoat is the white. So I will be trying to sand that out to restore as much as possible before applying the new decal.

Jeff,
The detailer that did the decal removal on our Outlaw went over the newly exposed areas with "Barkeepers Friend" classic power - cleanser/polish:
https://www.barkeepersfriend.com/

He recommended this, then a polymer restoration product BEFORE doing a "cut and buff."

The polymer restoration product is really more for the oxidized areas that were not covered by decals. Like:
Wipe New® Marine | Official Site

It worked for us.

If the "Barkeeper's Friend" does not remove the green stain on your hood...no harm/no foul because it is not expensive and readily available.

But maybe give it a try first? Because it will not damage the gel coat.
And using the wrong material/technique on gel coat can be very harmful to the finish (been there, done that - different RV).

Best luck