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Old 05-11-2021, 08:59 AM   #1
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Genset,Transfer switch, Battery Control Center or something I did?

So I've been hearing a clicking coming from the BCC off and on for awhile now and on the last trip of the year last year I tried to run the genset while driving so I could use the AC. It was fine for a couple minutes then sarting surging so I shut it down.
Yesterday I decided to replace the isolator relay since I had a spare sitting around. When I tried the genset after I was done everything worked fine for the first few minutes but then I heard the clicking again and the ac was surging so I shut it down. I then started the genset again but didn't turn on the ac but now I have no power from the genset to anything. I did plug it in and did have power from the shore power so I know that works. I couldn't try the ac because it's only a 15 amp circuit I was plugged into. It was getting late so I gave up for the night.
My next steps today will be to check the GFI and breaker on the genset but other than that does anyone have any other ideas? Changing the isolator soleniod is a pretty straight forward job so I don't think I did anything wrong there but it was the only thing I worked on before this happened.
Also would the original problem be one of the latching relays? The coach light has always stayed on at the salesman or disconnect switch but never seemed to be an issue. I have the Intelletic 53-00524-100 BCC if that helps anyone.
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Old 05-11-2021, 09:25 AM   #2
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If you now have no power with the generator I would check the gen breakers as you said and then the transfer switch.
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Old 05-11-2021, 10:51 AM   #3
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Not sure what the problems might be that you're having but here's the service manual for the BCC if you need it. Surging of a small gasoline engine is usually related to fuel flow or carbonator problems. I don't think the problems, BCC clicking and generator surging, are related.

The coach light will stay on if you have shore power or the generator is running even with the disconnect is activated as the charger/converter is providing DC power to the coach.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Intellitec BCC.pdf (634.4 KB, 9 views)
File Type: pdf BCC TS Guide.pdf (224.3 KB, 4 views)
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Old 05-11-2021, 12:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonandlisa View Post
If you now have no power with the generator I would check the gen breakers as you said and then the transfer switch.
Checked the genset breaker and GFI and now onto the transfer switch I guess.

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Originally Posted by Sweetbriar View Post
Not sure what the problems might be that you're having but here's the service manual for the BCC if you need it. Surging of a small gasoline engine is usually related to fuel flow or carbonator problems. I don't think the problems, BCC clicking and generator surging, are related.

The coach light will stay on if you have shore power or the generator is running even with the disconnect is activated as the charger/converter is providing DC power to the coach.
Thanks for the link. As for the surging it was only doing it after having the ac on for a few minutes and started at the same time as the clicking did. It runs smooth now that there is no load on it and it did before as well. Could still be a fuel problem I guess.

The coach light stays on with or without the genset or shore power. I do think I have an issue in the BCC but agree that it's not related to the surging of the genset, unless the relay opening and closing is causing the genset to load and unload maybe?

I'm going to check out the transfer switch this afternoon and see what's happening there before I go back to the BBC.
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Old 05-11-2021, 01:17 PM   #5
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The isolator has nothing to do with 120 volt power, its only for connecting the house 12 volt battery bant to the engine 12 volt battery bank for charging.

The GFCI is not involved in the air conditioner. Its only for outlets near sinks or outside.

It seems like your generator is surging but even If its the Air condition surging, its probably a generator issue. If the volts drop, things surge and can switch on and off ( The clicking ).

With a partionally plugged gas filter the generator will run smooth until you add a load, like air conditioner, to it.

First thing to do is change gas filter and, of course, confirm more the 1/4 tank of gas.
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Old 05-11-2021, 01:27 PM   #6
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MOST COMMON cause of GEN surging (Gas or diesel) is intermittent/ failing FUEL PUMP, and should be the first DIY item replaced? ($25-$30 part for most, but even OEM at $100 cheaper than MIN SHOP FEE) Fuel FILTERS for GENS are hard to clog, as solids (and water) mostly settle to the bottom of tank, and are NEVER seen by the GEN fuel filter, where pickup sitting UP at 1/4-tank. Hope this helps? Luck to ya
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Old 05-11-2021, 01:30 PM   #7
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I agree with the idea that it could be a fuel filter but it could also be the generator's carburetor, or even possibly the fuel pump. I experienced an Onan that would surge only with heavy loads like the air conditioner or a couple of electric heaters which was caused by the fuel pump. To me, it sounds like a generator problem. The clicking, I'm not so sure about. If the generator is surging the voltage and frequency are both going up and down so might cause that.
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Old 05-11-2021, 02:21 PM   #8
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MOST COMMON cause of GEN surging (Gas or diesel) is intermittent/ failing FUEL PUMP, and should be the first DIY item replaced? ($25-$30 part for most, but even OEM at $100 cheaper than MIN SHOP FEE) Fuel FILTERS for GENS are hard to clog, as solids (and water) mostly settle to the bottom of tank, and are NEVER seen by the GEN fuel filter, where pickup sitting UP at 1/4-tank. Hope this helps? Luck to ya
So don't change the $5 filter, and replace the $30 fuel pump instead, on a guess ?
That filter may be original from 1999.
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Old 05-11-2021, 02:36 PM   #9
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I would double check the generator breaker and if it is the flip style breaker I would try turning it off and back on a couple of time. Also, mine has a power outlet (120v) right there at the generator which if yours has that I would test for voltage there as that is before the transfer switch. (I am not sure that the outlet is standard or added by the previous owner though).
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Old 05-11-2021, 02:45 PM   #10
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Thanks for the replys and suggestions everyone. I guess I need to clarify a couple things..

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The isolator has nothing to do with 120 volt power, its only for connecting the house 12 volt battery bant to the engine 12 volt battery bank for charging.
I changed it because I had one sitting around and thought it might be the clicking I was hearing. When the clicking first started we were in a camp ground on shore power few a few hours but everything still worked fine.

The GFCI is not involved in the air conditioner. Its only for outlets near sinks or outside.
I checked it because I have no power to the coach from the genset now, only on shore power.

It seems like your generator is surging but even If its the Air condition surging, its probably a generator issue. If the volts drop, things surge and can switch on and off ( The clicking ).
This makes sense but the clicking was there on shore power before "but" on the genset it was more frequent and started doing it within minutes.

With a partionally plugged gas filter the generator will run smooth until you add a load, like air conditioner, to it.
It is an older genset but has a new fuel filter(last spring and hardly used since) so I'm thinking like THenne1713 and SKP Kirk it could be a fuel pump or carb issue for the surging issue.

First thing to do is change gas filter and, of course, confirm more the 1/4 tank of gas.
I just checked and I do have over a 1/4 tank of gas but thanks I hadn't even thought about that.
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Old 05-11-2021, 02:57 PM   #11
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So I just checked the transfer switch and the genset is putting out 118V but it's not going through the transfer switch. I don't see any signs that its bad other then no voltage out the other side. I'm going to do some more checking with it but it looks like I will have to replace it.

Now back to the clicking in the BCC, like I said it did do it after it was plugged in for awhile on shore power and almost right away when the genset was working. That has to be one of the latching relays and I'm guessing it would be the one for the coach. Does that make sense? Also if it means anything the chassis light at the disconnect switch stays on all the time. I haven't done the tests that are in the downlaods Sweetbrier posted yet but it looks like all that will tell me is if the are opening and closing which I know they are when I hit the disconnect switchs. I can hear them and I have no power in the coach or the chassis after I hit the switches.
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Old 05-11-2021, 10:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
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So don't change the $5 filter, and replace the $30 fuel pump instead, on a guess ?
That filter may be original from 1999.
Well, in a word, YES, and just checked my Onan FF #149-2333 on Amazon at $10.99, but When I replaced my (then 19yo pump & filter ON MY 99/2000 Chassis), I had a new spare FF, looked thru old, blew thru it, and all was clear/ clean, I could see the screen inside and it was clean; put my NEW FF back into SPARE parts bin. But I have been around since the ($10 plastic/ paper Fuel filters today) were selling for $0.49 wholesale, and $1 retail... so the guess is well educated w/ experience... guess that make educated guess?
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Old 05-11-2021, 11:39 PM   #13
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The BBC may be tied to bird relay it would charge/combine Chassis batts when on gen. or plugged in . It shouldn't click on and off, I would think ,if everything was perfectly right. But from what I understand Bird pulls in BBC at 12v and reduces to lesser DC voltage to keep draw and heat down on coil. I think this design is for continuous rated BBC not latching type. This is what I have read here. I haven't had my hands on any. Is there a different Bird relay for a latching relay as well I'm not sure.
Load on a motor will need more fuel ,if gas that means bowl has to stay at proper level "aka.. fuel pump/ filter/needle valve / float" and jets clean.
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Old 05-12-2021, 08:03 AM   #14
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The BBC may be tied to bird relay it would charge/combine Chassis batts when on gen. or plugged in . It shouldn't click on and off, I would think ,if everything was perfectly right. But from what I understand Bird pulls in BBC at 12v and reduces to lesser DC voltage to keep draw and heat down on coil. I think this design is for continuous rated BBC not latching type. This is what I have read here. I haven't had my hands on any. Is there a different Bird relay for a latching relay as well I'm not sure.
Load on a motor will need more fuel ,if gas that means bowl has to stay at proper level "aka.. fuel pump/ filter/needle valve / float" and jets clean.
I have three relays/solenoids in my BBC. Two are the latching style, one for chassis and one for coach. The other one is the battery disconnect which is the one you are talking about I'm assuming. It looks just like a regular Ford soleniod for a starter and that is the one I changed.
It didn't eliminate the clicking so I guess there was nothing wrong with that which is why I was thinking it was the latching style relay for the coach since it does it when plugged in or on the genset. Maybe the transfer switching is causing the relays in the BCC to open and close because it's faulty. I don't know but think I should go back there first and eliminate any problems there first and work my way to the front.
Just wish they put it in a place that was easier to work on, I can barely get in there to test it let alone change it out if I have to do that. :( At least with the BCC I have the drivers door so I can stand there and work on it.
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