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Old 03-31-2016, 06:40 PM   #1
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Handling question

First is about CHF, do you have to unload the suspension to do this job or can it be done weight on wheels.
Second, track bar, is this what I should consider to prevent wandering from trucks, x-winds and our toad
Thor Hurricane 32S, F530 chassis.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
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Old 03-31-2016, 06:57 PM   #2
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donmacd - before you buy anything do the free things. CHF can be done on the ground with very little effort. Our Challenger sits so low it was difficult for this old fat guy to crawl underneath. But I did and used a small bottle jack to nudge the holes back into alignment. Took me about 30 minutes.

Your wheelbase to length ratio is I believe about 52.5 (208" wheelbase divide by 396"). So you unit starts off okay. I would next make sure your tires are aired correctly. There are lots of threads on IRV2 or Thor Forums that will give you a start point. Often times under inflated tires will add to the sway.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:22 PM   #3
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Tire pressure is critical, once correct i'd do: X2 do the CHF. If it works for you, problem solved. I never did a track bar, so can't help as to it's affect. I went with front and rear sway bars and a steering stabilizer to correct my issues. I like 1 handed driving. My .02
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donmacd View Post
First is about CHF, do you have to unload the suspension to do this job or can it be done weight on wheels.
Second, track bar, is this what I should consider to prevent wandering from trucks, x-winds and our toad
Thor Hurricane 32S, F530 chassis.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Your F53 already has a front track bar, but no rear one. I would do things one at a time, taking a trip after each change and stop when you are satisfied:

#1 and #2 are basics.

1. Front wheel alignment. Verify tires match and are properly inflated to at least the minimum PSI labeled in the RV. Try 5 PSI higher than the label, sometimes that makes a difference.

2. 4 wheel weighing, make sure below the RV label maximum.

3. CHF in front. Done on reasonably level parking space, set parking brake. Don't raise front with your leveling jacks, keep weight on the wheels. Can drive front wheels up on boards to give you more working space if you need it.

4. CHF in rear. Same procedure as front.

If still not satisfied, now you are talking changes that cost 100s of dollars...

5a. Steering stablizer such as Safe-T-Steer

5b. Rear axle track bar
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Old 03-31-2016, 08:03 PM   #5
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Thanks so far guys
Front end is aligned
Tire pressures are right on
I will do the CHF right after the next trip next week
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Old 03-31-2016, 08:08 PM   #6
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All good advice above. The one thing I did to my last two F553's to get them to drive good was to get an alignment. Be sure to get motorhome spec's done for the alignment, not big truck spec's. The CHF will help with the sway. At that point you should be good to go.
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:19 PM   #7
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Ensure all the basics are correct, alignment check, CHF, then rear track bar.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:36 PM   #8
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I just watched a video where the owners of a 2016 Bounder Gasser were complaining about the handling. They put on Roadmaster front and rear sway bars for much less body roll and a Reflex steering stabilizer for more steering control. The handling was night and day different.
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Old 04-01-2016, 05:27 AM   #9
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The CHF significantly improved handling on my 30ft Mirada. I was going to do a rear track bar, but after doing the CHF, the track bar project got pushed way down on the priority list.

Sway Bar, front and rear. Inspect the bushings a couple times year. On the newer F53 chassis, the rear sway bar bushing brackets have a nasty habit of bolts coming lose and the brackets breaking.

On mine, I extended the tie rods by 2 inches. (cut the old ones in half and inserted a 1/2 pipe to make them longer.

http://www.2001mirada.com/cheap-hand...and-then-some/

..
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:31 AM   #10
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I've done the chf and tire pressures for a huge improvement. Still have some tail wag and am in the process of building a track bar for the rear. considering a steering stabilizer but will hold off on that until i see how she responds to the track bar.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:40 AM   #11
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I have not owned the Ford chassis, but I have owned the W-22 chassis on a 2005 Adventurer which suffered the same handling problems you are experiencing. I have since sold that MH and now have a DP.

I went through all the CHF processes noted above, non of which really helped. I replaced the shocks with KONI's which helped a lot. The addition of a Blue Ox rear trac bar helped the most, especially when 18 wheelers passed me in a cross wind.

This suspension improvement is easy to install and works as advertised. Blue Ox makes a quality product. You will be amazed how much controling the "tail wagging the dog" helps the handling with these heavy chassis.
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Old 04-03-2016, 02:24 PM   #12
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The rear Trac bar is the key. That alone will improve you handling. I had a W20 chassis and the tail wag was terrible even after I did all the CHFs. I also installed a Safe T Plus steering stabilizer. It was a different rig after that.
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