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Old 09-21-2020, 03:10 PM   #1
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Hard wire a TPMS monitor

Im looking to hard wire my tpms monitor so that i can hide the wires. has anyone done this. i have a 2006 discovery 39S
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Old 09-21-2020, 03:55 PM   #2
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Ran the power cable through the dash & spliced to lines supplying an accessory/lighter socket.

I consciously selected the unkeyed socket, so the circuit is always live. In retrospect, maybe not my best choice as the low pressure alarm has gone off, middle of the night, when cold weather causes tire pressure to drop.
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Old 09-21-2020, 04:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by istumpy View Post
Im looking to hard wire my tpms monitor so that i can hide the wires. has anyone done this. i have a 2006 discovery 39S
Hi there. I did mine this way. I have an EEZ RV system. Took a good, long USB cable (cloth covered, etc) and stripped one end to expose the power and ground wire, routed under the dash, and spliced these into an acc/key-on power wire (I chose tapping into my nav system wire harness for key-on power). I only wanted power going to the system when the ignition key is on. The other end is routed to my driver side window. Presently, I have my TPMS display mounted on the window suction cup mount that came with my system (on the lower driver side-window). I might switch my wiring to pick up key-on power and ground at my auto leveling system just to shorten and tidy that up. But you get the idea...

Here's a picture of mine and USB wiring diagram.

Hope this helps a little..

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Old 09-21-2020, 04:17 PM   #4
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Just like Cincy Steve, I ran the wire through the dash to a cigarette lighter that I installed hidden away under the dash. I secured the TPMS plug into the socket with tape so it would not rattle off. The cord is as hidden as possible around the mount that I glued to the dash. Mine is wired to an ignition on circuit.

I've done the same with my cell phone holder. I like a clean dash and loose wires drive me nuts. It is worth the time and effort to achieve a nice clean and professional look.
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Old 09-21-2020, 05:02 PM   #5
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I had a spare space for a rocker switch on the left side panel. I added a master switch for the electronics that turns on/off the GPS, TPMS, and the dash camera. Only wires showing are right behind the units themselves and disappear into the dash.
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Old 09-21-2020, 05:55 PM   #6
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Timing is perfect

Just getting ready to do this in my rig. Definitely appreciating all this advice!
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Old 09-21-2020, 06:30 PM   #7
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I would definitely put it on a switch. Also some devices have a fuse inside the plug that goes in the cig lighter socket. I prefer to make sure I am fused for the device not what the chassis mfg fused the socket if you catch my drift.
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Old 09-21-2020, 06:51 PM   #8
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My coach has a removable cover on the dash. I made a 12 volt block that has both ignition ON USB/cigarette style lugs and plugs that are hot all the time. I drilled a 3/4" hole on the side of the dash, that can only be seen form outside the driver's window. I ran the wiring for my TPMS, dash cam and Silverleaf laptop through the hole and made all the connections under the dash.

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Old 09-21-2020, 07:47 PM   #9
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I purchased this Wiring Harness that plugs into the Freightliner electric brake module.

In addition to being a brake controller connector (which I don't have) it also has connections for always-on power and ignition controlled power.

I have my TPMS, Garmin GPS and BlueFire app on an iPad connected to the always-hot, and my dash camera to the ignition controlled connection. All of the connections are under the dash with the wires running up the side of the dash and the A pillar for the dash camera.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by istumpy View Post
has anyone done this.
I did. Similar process as others have described.

There is one possible unintended consequence, though. On mine, keeping the display powered disables the power on/off switch, leaving the display constantly powered ON. What I failed to fully appreciate is that, occasionally, during an overnight, the temperature dropped enough to cause a tire pressure to drop below the low limit, which resulted in the TPMS alarm going off.

It was far enough away from the bedroom that the alarm didn't wake me. My DW's persistent elbow in my ribs did, however, wake me.

Take care,
Stu
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:32 PM   #11
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Another vote for maybe reconsidering doing this. As some have said, always on gives you no options. Another consideration that hasn't been mentioned, if one of my sensors loses connection to the display unit, for my EezTire system it's a simple unplug and replug of the usb cable which is five inches from the ignition. The six sensors will reconnect within minutes without that annoying beep telling me I've lost a sensor.
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Old 09-21-2020, 10:48 PM   #12
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Iím in the same camp. With a 60 hour battery life I only have to charge the TPMS every few weeks. Restart is a quick toggle of the on/off switch. The charging cable is plugged into a usb charger in the 110 outlet next to the drivers seat so itís easy to plug in when needed.
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Old 09-21-2020, 11:18 PM   #13
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In our RAM 3500 I wanted to install: TPMS, Rear View Monitor, Dash Camera, GPS, and additional USB outlets for iPad & iPhones. I had exposed cables. The dash winds up looking like a control center with all those displays. The iPad has magnetic dash mounts as do the phones.

I installed a 12 circuit fuse block from Blue Seas under the center console. From there I was able to run hidden wires to everything I wanted. The fuse block is feed by a 40 amp line, proper wire gauge for length of run. That is connected to a relay under the hood. From there it goes to the a 40 amp fuse and the battery. The relay is activated via a piggyback fuse in the front fuse panel that is only hot when the engine is running. So when I turn on the engine all the dash stuff powers up, except iPad and iPhones and no exposed wires for all those devices.

The 12 circuit fuse block provides a dedicated fuse for each device and USB outlets. Thus some are fused at 0.5 or 1.0 amps or larger as warranted. I don't like the idea of splicing-in a USB cable to a 10 or 15 amp fused circuit.
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Old 09-23-2020, 02:39 PM   #14
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A Step Further

I took this idea a step further and provided a switched source of power for all of my ďaccessoriesĒ. I bought a six switch panel that I mounted to the right of the steering column. I used a fuse tap to get power from the fuse panel. Then I wired a cigarette lighter extension cord to each switch. Each cord has itís own in-line fuse appropriately sized for the device it supplies. I ran the six extension cords up under the center console. My 2015 THOR Palazzo has a lot of room behind this console. Then I cut a hole in the top of the console that will pass the male end of a cigarette lighter power cord that comes with almost all of these types of automotive accessories. This ďlargeĒ hole is then covered with a dash top utility tray that I made. I then secured each cigarette plug with tape so they will not pull or vibrate loose. I then bundled all this wire together up under the console. I now have a lighted switch for my rear view/side view camera system, a phone charger, the power cord for a CB radio, my TPMS system, my GPS mapping system and my windshield mounted dash camera. No exposed wires and each device can be turned ON/OFF with the flip of a switch.
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