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Old 05-23-2017, 10:32 PM   #15
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Just because an engineered floor is thicker than some other engineered flooring doesn't mean the thicker is of better quality. I'd go for the thinner engineered flooring if it looks better.

One trick to installing flooring is having the correct subfloor. And OSB is not a proper subfloor. Plywood is much better to use.

Mastics are another issue. There are a number of different floor mastics (glues) that are for different uses. You should research online or contact the flooring manufacturer to ask what mastic to use. Unfortunately, nailing is not the way to install flooring in RV's.
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:26 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Just because an engineered floor is thicker than some other engineered flooring doesn't mean the thicker is of better quality. I'd go for the thinner engineered flooring if it looks better.

One trick to installing flooring is having the correct subfloor. And OSB is not a proper subfloor. Plywood is much better to use.

Mastics are another issue. There are a number of different floor mastics (glues) that are for different uses. You should research online or contact the flooring manufacturer to ask what mastic to use. Unfortunately, nailing is not the way to install flooring in RV's.


I went to a store that specializes in hardwood flooring. The quality is not even comparable to what you'll find in your local big box hardware store. The top veneer on the one I'm buying is about 1/8", the top veneer at the big box stores is paper thin. The quality flooring is twice the price but you get what you pay for. 3/8" is the thinnest that anyone sells and that is what I'm purchasing. My salesman sent me the spec sheet on the urethane adhesive and it is rated for exterior plywood or OSB. Pretty sure I'm not changing the subfloor.
What I was wondering about was if I just chip the tiles out around the interior walls to remove the old tile? Seems like it's really the only way to do it.
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:33 AM   #17
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Hardwood Flooring

On tile removal a PO took care of that prior to them installing faux vinyl tiles. It appears that they did just chip away all the tile. I had a few places to cleanup and there were chipped tile pieces under cabinets and the shower.
Some coach builders use another sheet of plywood under the tile. Newmar did this on ours and we removed that also. Carpeted areas did not have the extra plywood.


Good call on using a flooring store. I did the same quality and selection much better.
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Old 05-25-2017, 11:07 AM   #18
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start chipping by working toward the walls. when you get close you can break the tile and remove it from under the walls/cabinets
it is a slow process
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Old 05-25-2017, 11:04 PM   #19
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I thought that before I put in my order for the wood that I should check my slide clearances again. The kitchen is on rollers so it should be fine but the living room side looks like it rides up a wedge of sorts and doesn't appear to have any rollers. It seems the sides are elevated a bit with high density plastic. During the first part of extending the slides the bottom of the slide seems to slide along the floor surface for a bit until more weight is on the outside wall and then it tips up and I have clearance again. Is hardwood a viable option in this case, or should I forget about it? Or is there some kind of floor protector I can put down for it to slide on when I extend the slide?
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:12 AM   #20
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Now that is a question that interests me as well
My slide somewhat drags across the tile under my couch
I am also wanting to ditch the tile
In my case I've got some rotten wood I've got to replace
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Old 05-26-2017, 05:15 AM   #21
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you can use thin cutting boards or some thin vinyl planks to put under your slide
West Marine has some "Git Rot" that I have used to stop the spread ofwd rot. If the damage is not too bad, you can use this product.
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Old 05-27-2017, 03:28 PM   #22
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I use a carpet runner material from Home Depot to protect the floor. It is under 1/8" thick and has neoprene on the bottom so it doesn't slide. It is tight weave carpet on top (which is what my slides originally rode on. It comes 2' wide. I cut it into strips 1' wide and use 5 of them spaced out along me main room slides which are 12' wide. It works great, is inexpensive and can be rolled up and stored easily when not in use. Attached is a picture of the runners with the slide in.
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Old 05-27-2017, 04:56 PM   #23
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OSB is used by many coach manufacturers. I have never had any issues with this material. I will agree, however, that plywood is the best medium, but if your coach has OSB, adding plywood, unless there is floor damage, is going to elevate the floor where it will really impact the slide travel and is a waste of cash. Just like the myth of having to remove the slides to add flooring. That's just a cash cow for a dealer.
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Old 05-28-2017, 04:52 AM   #24
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I use a carpet runner material from Home Depot to protect the floor. It is under 1/8" thick and has neoprene on the bottom so it doesn't slide. It is tight weave carpet on top (which is what my slides originally rode on. It comes 2' wide. I cut it into strips 1' wide and use 5 of them spaced out along me main room slides which are 12' wide. It works great, is inexpensive and can be rolled up and stored easily when not in use. Attached is a picture of the runners with the slide in.
I'm not understanding how you are using that carpet in my case the ( I assume) bottom of the flexsteel couch is either dragging or just sitting directly on the floor when the slide is in the stored (in) position. When I put it out there is a large black Mark across the white tile where,again I'm assuming the couch rests. I've attempted to determine the cause but haven't really spent any serious time trying to figure this out. If I get what you are saying I could just throw some of this carpet down and hopefully the framework of the couch could just ride up and over on it and not damage the floor anymore.
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:17 AM   #25
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So does the steel frame extend beyond the edge of the slide? If it does, the only time it would contact the center portion of the floor might be the last couple of inches of travel of the slide when it is extended out. If it is for sure the frame rubbing on the tile I would just shim the couch up with a washer under the frame at each mounting bolt location so that there is always a little clearance.
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:01 AM   #26
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Good advise thanks
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Old 05-31-2017, 11:55 PM   #27
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As far as floor protectors I used vinyl placemats with rubber backing and believe me they are a must have. They are thin and store we'll under the bed when we're parked.
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