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Old 09-09-2017, 03:43 PM   #15
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The Ford V-10 6-sp book says ok to tow at speeds of 45 mph or less.
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Old 09-09-2017, 05:30 PM   #16
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Having Class A Towed Question

If you leave my driveshaft disconnected I wouldn't have a parking brake and unless blocked the coach would be free to roll. So know your coach before leaving the driveshaft disconnected.
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Old 09-09-2017, 06:22 PM   #17
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Thanks for all the input. I have a W22 Workhorse chassis and is a gasser. For the most part it sounds like disconnecting the driveshaft is the way to go.

My roadside assistance is current and I understand that any company that tows these things SHOULD know what to do. Unfortunately, SHOULD isn't good enough when dealing with these expensive vehicles. You hear all the horror stories of repairs gone wrong, lug nuts left off or not tightened causing tire, wheel, and body damage, and tows causing other damage. I want to educate myself as best as possible on certain things to help prevent a stressful situation becoming more stressful by someone that SHOULD know what they are doing, but doesn't.

An example of this is reconnecting the driveshaft after the tow. Having never given it any thought, I could see where I may have gotten stressed being told by the driver that they don't do that. Having read the responses to this thread at least I know it's not unusual for the driver to not reconnect the driveshaft. I will be stopping by my local Workhorse service center to get there input on towing and how the driveshaft should be managed.

I know I will never learn everything, but when I can I will. That's a good thing about this forum, lots of learning opportunities!
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Old 09-09-2017, 07:24 PM   #18
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I have been towed three times through Coach Net, all three times the tow truck operator reconnected the drive shaft. Each time I ask the shop to check the installation.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:19 PM   #19
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I was towed to a repair shop and the driver disconnected the drive line and said the shop will reconnect. They also disconnected & re-connected the trans cooler to get the chains on the front. Shop fixed the problem and re-connected the drive line.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:29 PM   #20
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mine was towed backwards. they strapped the steering wheel to hold it centered. no disconnect of drive line. they towed it faster than i drive it usually.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:55 PM   #21
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Having Class A Towed Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by ladagobago View Post
This is not BS and should not be a dependent situation. The liability is due to the fact the the bolt and the strap are one time only use. The bolts are TTY ie torque to yield and the strap have been deformed from previous use.

Call spicer, they make most of those parts and ask them if they would recommend using their part over again.
I have been towed and I know the difference.

A good tow company has lots of experience in pulling heavy duty rigs. You should not have to tell them what to do. Skip had a perfect example of what needs to be done and now I told you the "why".


Your reply makes sense.

I did some online research, and sure enough 'One time use' is the recommendation. I found some who dispute this and have reused anyways, but if the experts are saying to replace, then to me it's kind of a no brainer for something as inexpensive as the straps and bolts (less than $10 unless I'm looking at the wrong ones).

I'm going to get a new set this week and put them in the milk crate (it's what I use to carry my odds and ends for on the road repairs) so I'll have them on hand if I get towed again. I'm thinking I'll leave the ones on there alone since it's been over a year ago and several thousand miles with no issues.
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV-Writer View Post
mine was towed backwards. they strapped the steering wheel to hold it centered. no disconnect of drive line. they towed it faster than i drive it usually.
Ditto.

The tow truck operator was very professional & extremely helpful. . He took the time to check the height of the lifted coach to ensure that it would not strike any highway bridges.
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Old 09-10-2017, 03:15 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunny1 View Post
Your reply makes sense.

I did some online research, and sure enough 'One time use' is the recommendation. I found some who dispute this and have reused anyways, but if the experts are saying to replace, then to me it's kind of a no brainer for something as inexpensive as the straps and bolts (less than $10 unless I'm looking at the wrong ones).

I'm going to get a new set this week and put them in the milk crate (it's what I use to carry my odds and ends for on the road repairs) so I'll have them on hand if I get towed again. I'm thinking I'll leave the ones on there alone since it's been over a year ago and several thousand miles with no issues.
I gave expert advise right here. That is something La Dagobago does. No BS from this end. Call your MH chassis manufacturer to find out what the part number is as they are not always available as a stock items, even at such places a Trans Axle. I needed Spicer and they did not have it. They are also a large Alison Trans repair and rebuild facility where I have a commercial account.

this was a large place and if they did not have it you may have a hard time finding it when needed.
"TransAxle, headquartered in Cinnaminson, New Jersey, was founded in 1979 and has since become the largest re-manufacturer of drive train components along the East Coast. We cover applications ranging from light duty trucks to heavy duty off highway equipment and machines. TransAxle now has twenty-four locations and is ever growing.
We are truck part specialists; not generalists. We carry a massive inventory and are distributors for over 50 leading manufacturers such as Bendix, Dana, Eaton, Fuller and Meritor. Our knowledgeable sales staff and factory trained technicians are committed to top quality and customer satisfaction"

I had more satisfaction ON LINE I ordered mine on line from a supplier and got them in a few days. I believe the bolts needed 90 Lbs torque TTY.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:12 PM   #24
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the drive shaft is matched

I was thinking about this article and no one talked about the most important fact that the two halves of the drive shaft are matched at the point of manufacture and balanced. BEFORE the tow operator removes the drive shaft get some spray paint, crayon or what ever to mark the relationship of the two halves of the shaft. This way you will not have to guess if they are correct.

If they end up 180' out you could experience vibration. this was a recommendation from the drive shaft manufacturers tech support team.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:46 PM   #25
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My previous DP was towed once. The tow truck driver pulled an axle instead of disconnecting the driveshaft. He said it was just as good. I've read since then that was a no no but don't know why. Since I no longer own that coach I don't know if there was any long term issue.
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:11 PM   #26
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Having Class A Towed Question

If I have to be towed, I am going to request a flatbed trailer
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:22 PM   #27
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Pulling one axle leaves the other axle turning the side and spider gears spinning in the differential.
It's like spinning one wheel while stuck on ice, for hours.

For a short trip it should be fine, but with a long or fast tow, both axles should be pulled, or the drive shaft.

We had a few tandem axle trucks that often needed a touch and porta power to push the U joint caps out. It was quicker to pull all 4 axles.
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:05 PM   #28
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When driving a tow truck, I never reconnected the driveshaft or reinstalled axles. I've never seen anything about not reusing u-bolts or retainer straps for u-joints (until now anyway).
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