Community Forums

LakeKerrGuy · 06-16-2018, 01:28 PM

Here is the sad story:
Arrived at campground and checked for 120v L1 to N, L1 to G, L2 to N, L2 to G, and 240 volts L1 to L2. All checked ok.
After going inside, I saw the remote panel was not showing AC input but I knew that was not possible because I had noticed the pilot light on the water heater switch was red. I turned on the air and it seemed to work so I'm now really scratching my head. About that time I heard the refrigerator fire up on gas. It then cycled back and forth between gas and electric for a couple of cycles. More head scratching...
I went back outside and turned the power off at the pedestal and fired the generator. Guess what, still no power input indicated at the remote panel. By this time, I'm getting frazzled so I do not remember the exact sequence of events for a little while.
At some point, I checked the voltage at the ACV power distribution panel. That's when I knew I was doomed. The voltage was behaving as if there was an open neutral - windshield effect. But, how could that be, I had checked the pedestal. After checking the neutral connections in the power panel and my 50 amp cord, I returned to the pedestal. The neutral buss bar was not attached. It was in contact just enough to give a good read, but as soon as load was applied, the neutral opened.

Now to the real problem. It seems my Inverter/Charger is damaged. The batteries are not being charged; it does not seem to be passing 120 volts from the shore cable through the inverter. The inverter is receiving 12VDC from the batteries and sending out 120 volts but my only way of keeping the batteries from going completely down is with the small 12 amp portable charger I keep in the motor home.

What I have done (other than a lot of head scratching):
removed cover from inverter to check for damage (see or smell none); disconnect phone cable and reconnect at remote (read that somewhere); verified all dip switches are in off position; I'm keeping the inverter off so none of the 120 volt connected to it can be used - wife not happy at not having a microwave.

Short of buying a new Inverter/Charger what is my next move???

LakeKerrGuy · 06-17-2018, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LakeKerrGuy

Here is the sad story:
Arrived at campground and checked for 120v L1 to N, L1 to G, L2 to N, L2 to G, and 240 volts L1 to L2. All checked ok.
After going inside, I saw the remote panel was not showing AC input but I knew that was not possible because I had noticed the pilot light on the water heater switch was red. I turned on the air and it seemed to work so I'm now really scratching my head. About that time I heard the refrigerator fire up on gas. It then cycled back and forth between gas and electric for a couple of cycles. More head scratching...
I went back outside and turned the power off at the pedestal and fired the generator. Guess what, still no power input indicated at the remote panel. By this time, I'm getting frazzled so I do not remember the exact sequence of events for a little while.
At some point, I checked the voltage at the ACV power distribution panel. That's when I knew I was doomed. The voltage was behaving as if there was an open neutral - windshield effect. But, how could that be, I had checked the pedestal. After checking the neutral connections in the power panel and my 50 amp cord, I returned to the pedestal. The neutral buss bar was not attached. It was in contact just enough to give a good read, but as soon as load was applied, the neutral opened.

Now to the real problem. It seems my Inverter/Charger is damaged. The batteries are not being charged; it does not seem to be passing 120 volts from the shore cable through the inverter. The inverter is receiving 12VDC from the batteries and sending out 120 volts but my only way of keeping the batteries from going completely down is with the small 12 amp portable charger I keep in the motor home.

What I have done (other than a lot of head scratching):
removed cover from inverter to check for damage (see or smell none); disconnect phone cable and reconnect at remote (read that somewhere); verified all dip switches are in off position; I'm keeping the inverter off so none of the 120 volt connected to it can be used - wife not happy at not having a microwave.

Short of buying a new Inverter/Charger what is my next move???

Not receiving any suggestion about what to check to verify if the Inverter/Charger is toast or repairable, I'm looking at 2 replacement models. It's either a Magnum MS 2012 or a MS 2812.
It appears the 2012 would be a direct replacement. Whereas I will need to change the DC cables, DC fuse and add overcurrent protection (breaker panel) for the AC output if I go with the 2812. Also wondering about the AC input. Are there any changes necessary there?

TwelveVolt · 06-17-2018, 09:05 PM

Here is a long shot. When I called the manufacturer about similar symptoms in my Heart Interface a few years ago, the tech suggested hitting the box with my fist. It worked! He attributed the problem to a corroded connector and said I had a few hits left until I needed to send the unit in to replace the connector with a gold plated one.

LakeKerrGuy · 06-18-2018, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwelveVolt

Here is a long shot. When I called the manufacturer about similar symptoms in my Heart Interface a few years ago, the tech suggested hitting the box with my fist. It worked! He attributed the problem to a corroded connector and said I had a few hits left until I needed to send the unit in to replace the connector with a gold plated one.

I gave hit several solid hits before removing the cover and spraying everything with contact cleaner - still nothing.

vito.a · 06-18-2018, 12:39 PM

There are a few places that may be able to repair your inverter. I've had Chris at Tekris repair an old Heart inverter, but the problem is finding parts.
https://www.tekrispower.com/

I finally went with a new Magnum inverter. The MS series is a pure sine wave model and the ME series is a modified sine wave model. If you have sensitive electronics or a residential fridge that does not like modified sine wave power, then you need to spend the extra dollars for the pure sine inverter. There is also a new hybrid MSH Magnum inverter that can supplement a small generator or 30a shore power with battery power.

If you have four 6v batteries or less, then a 2000w inverter is fine. If you have eight 6v batteries, then go with a 3000w version.

LakeKerrGuy · 06-19-2018, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vito.a

There are a few places that may be able to repair your inverter. I've had Chris at Tekris repair an old Heart inverter, but the problem is finding parts.
https://www.tekrispower.com/

I finally went with a new Magnum inverter. The MS series is a pure sine wave model and the ME series is a modified sine wave model. If you have sensitive electronics or a residential fridge that does not like modified sine wave power, then you need to spend the extra dollars for the pure sine inverter. There is also a new hybrid MSH Magnum inverter that can supplement a small generator or 30a shore power with battery power.

If you have four 6v batteries or less, then a 2000w inverter is fine. If you have eight 6v batteries, then go with a 3000w version.

I ordered a MS2012 (2000 watt) yesterday. I would have liked to have purchased a MS2812 (2800 watt) but did not want to undertake changing the DC cables and adding the required 120 volt distribution panel while on the road.
After I get home in October, I'll try to find someone to rebuild the Heart and may even get a MS 2812 at that time. If I do, look for a Heart and Magnum 2012 listed on Ebay.

LakeKerrGuy · 08-08-2018, 11:37 AM

Contrary to what the literature says and what I was told on the phone, the 2012 is not a direct replacement for the Heart. The 2012 does not have built in over current protection on the out circuits. It is necessary to install a separate breaker box to protect those circuits.

deandec · 08-08-2018, 12:50 PM

On my Freedom 25 inverter, there are circuit buttons on the side of the inverter box.

One of these is for the transfer circuit from the inverter to the AC receptacles. Since I also use a remote for the inverter, my inverter mounted power button is normally switched to "off" per the manual.

Behind my inverter Country Coach installed two breakers on the compartment wall. One controls the circuit to the microwave outlet and the other to all other AC outlets.

This confused me for awhile, because the circuit breakers in the basement near the inverter precede the circuit breakers in the 120v breaker box in the bedroom.

So, since you did not mention these three breakers, perhaps you have a similar setup and just need to cycle the three breakers......?

LakeKerrGuy · 08-08-2018, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deandec

On my Freedom 25 inverter, there are circuit buttons on the side of the inverter box.

One of these is for the transfer circuit from the inverter to the AC receptacles. Since I also use a remote for the inverter, my inverter mounted power button is normally switched to "off" per the manual.

Behind my inverter Country Coach installed two breakers on the compartment wall. One controls the circuit to the microwave outlet and the other to all other AC outlets.

This confused me for awhile, because the circuit breakers in the basement near the inverter precede the circuit breakers in the 120v breaker box in the bedroom.

So, since you did not mention these three breakers, perhaps you have a similar setup and just need to cycle the three breakers......?

The Heart had the breakers. The Magnam 2012, which was advertised as a direct replacement, does not. That is (was) the issue.

deandec · 08-08-2018, 10:35 PM

Sorry, I guess I did not understand that you had already replaced the Heart.

vito.a · 08-09-2018, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LakeKerrGuy

The Heart had the breakers. The Magnam 2012, which was advertised as a direct replacement, does not. That is (was) the issue.

Magnum makes different versions of the MS2012 inverter.
The MS2012-20B version has built in circuit breakers.
https://store.tekrispower.com/magnum...harger-w-2-20a

They also make an ME2012-20B version with built in circuit breakers.
https://store.tekrispower.com/magnum...nvertercharger

LakeKerrGuy · 08-10-2018, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vito.a

Magnum makes different versions of the MS2012 inverter.
The MS2012-20B version has built in circuit breakers.
https://store.tekrispower.com/magnum...harger-w-2-20a

They also make an ME2012-20B version with built in circuit breakers.
https://store.tekrispower.com/magnum...nvertercharger

Correct. I found that out after their regional manager told me which one to get. He knew I wanted one with the breakers because I clearly told him I would have preferred to upgrade to the 2800 watt - that does not have breakers- but did not want to go through the hassle of replacing my battery cables while on the road.
As it turned out, I'm happy with the outcome. Since I had to rewire the output circuits, I reconfigured it to have one 30 amp input (normal) and one 30 amp output (one of the optional wiring methods). I took the 30 amp output to a new distribution panel where I connected the two existing circuits. I now have room in the panel for two addition circuits.