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Old 12-27-2016, 09:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firedoc View Post
Propane contains hydrogen and carbon. When it burns it reacts with oxygen in the air and forms carbon dioxide and water vapour. That condenses and causes the dampness. It seems to be an accepted fact that propane heat will increase humidity.

When you run the ac it takes water out of the air (dehumidifies) when you switch it to heat pump it does the same thing, thus dries things out.
That vapor it creates goes out the furnace exhaust with the CO.

A furnace is a heat exchanger, no pollution or moisture inside.

A stove or unvented heater will cause moisture and CO inside.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:12 AM   #16
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I have a 2011 entegra aspire. The weather in san Antonio went from 70 degrees about 5 pm on the 17th to 22 degrees at 6am on the 18th boy was I cold. Obviously the heat pump would not work. The furnace was putting out cold air, the water line was frozen on the outside so no water was coming in the motor home only what was in the tank. did I say I was cold yep I was real cold. no matter what I tried the furnace would not get warm air. Luckily I carry electric heaters for that purpose but how come my furnace would not work. was it because the water in the tank was too cold an the aqua hot just couldn't do it?? I don't think those aqua hots are what they are advertised, well they might be as advertised to a degree but they are not effective. anybody had this experience??

For those who missed the QUESTION of the OP.

Has nothing to do with Moisture

, ,. .
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:31 AM   #17
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To help the OP, find your AquaHot circulation pumps- you will have to remove the cover. Try tapping on them gently- sometimes they stick and this might free them up. Also make sure your thermostat is set to furnace and not heat pump. You can also look at the control board and see if the pump light(s) is lit. Good luck!

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Old 12-28-2016, 05:53 AM   #18
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Well today it's going to be near 80 degrees again so just switch on the A/C! LOL Sorry, couldn't resist!
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Old 12-28-2016, 07:24 AM   #19
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Sounds like the OP needs an operation manual. Also sounds like he has the electric side on which will put out some hot water and a little heat. Does he know where the burner on switch is. Are the circuit valves open to the vents. Also most likely full service and while the tech is there an education on use.

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Old 12-28-2016, 10:30 AM   #20
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Hi OP - Delayed welcome, as it looked like a low number post!

Your coach should be able to handle the cold pretty dang good. So yes you either have some of the controls not set properly, and or a functionality problem is need of repair.

I would double check you manuals, to be sure you have all of the settings set properly to support maximum heat generation. With most Aqua/HdroHots that I know of, that means setting on both Electric (The single and or double (Depending upon model.) electric heating elements heat the tank of boiler fluid that is used to circulation to the heat registries within the coach. Our coach has a HydroHot with a 'single' electric heating element. It does a good job of providing hot water for washing dishes, shaving, and even a few navy showers. It will also maintain the heat in the coach down to around the high 30's to low 40's. Especially if only heating one zone of the coach. Where as a 'double' electric heating element equipped unit - will cover almost 65-75% of the water and coach heating demands that the propane/diesel fuel burner heating unit will.)

OK, so some AquaHot's are run on diesel, probably the bulk of them. But some are also run on propane. In the control area, you should have in addition to the Electric option, either a Diesel/Gas/Fuel option (My coach says Diesel.)

When hooked up to 50A or 30A shore power, I suggest turning them both on. That way the electric heating element(s) will take care of the much of your heating demands, and then the Diesel/Gas/Fuel option of firing up the burner portion of your AquaHot will kick in only when needed.

Suggest that you turn on one zone of your heating, set it up to 90, then check that the registers (Where the heat comes into the coach. This basically a mini radiator that pulls the hear out of the circulating fluid, and then fan fed out into the coach.) are putting out heat. If you do not detect heat air flow, still feel up close to the register, and see if you can feel any heat at all. (If you feel heat, then you know the circulation system is delivering hot boiler fluid to that register, and the fan may have gone out.) Check each register in that zone. Note any with problems, then change over to the next heating zone in the coach, until you have checked all registers.

This way you can point out to a service tech where you feel you are having heating problems, if any. They can then check or if you want to you can too, the various circulation pumps within the AquaHot bay. As mentioned already, a little finesse with a well paced 'tap' to the circulation pumps, can sometimes shake them awake!

Once you get all things working, I recommend you add a regular exercise maintenance to the system. (Even when not using the coach or not needing say heat and or cold, I do run all systems once every 6-8 weeks. The old 'use it or lose it' saying. I'm lucky as we do not need to winterize. So when not in use, I go and get the coach every 6-8 weeks, and go drive it for about an hour. Get the tires up to temperatures. Run the Over The Road heater and AC. Run the Generator the full time I'm driving. Run the roof AC's, run the Heat Pumps. Before leaving, I fire up the Diesel/Propane/Fuel option of the HydroHot. Let it run long enough for the diesel to get the boiler fluid up to temperatures. I run the heater in all zones. This is sort of a pre check flight, before the drive. I run the generator at this time too, as I want to get as much time as possible on the generator, while doing this exercise (Do keep at least a half load on the generator at all times during this exercise. Even if you don't really need to. Even just running the AC units on High Fan only, will put some load on the generator.)

And my final tip to you. When posting for help on a thread, try to provide as much info as you can. For example on this post. Taking the time to post the model of the AquaHot, would have allowed some of the veteran's on this forum to provide you with more finite info.

Ok, not my final tip! If you know the weather forecast is showing a freeze ahead. Top off your water tank, put your hose away for overnight (Both water and sewage.). If in extreme cold, some coaches need to have some of their inside cabinet doors open to allow some inside coach heat to the water lines running in the outside walls. (Suspect your coach will not require this until way down low temperatures hit.)

Enjoy yourself, and best,
Smitty
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:33 AM   #21
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When was the last time you had your Aquahot serviced? Also - check the antifreeze level. We've gone from a Webasto in a Prevost to an Aquahot in our current Winnebago Tour and the Aquahot is amazing.
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:27 AM   #22
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Appears the OP turned on his plug in electric heaters warmed up and will post again, this summer, when the A/C is not working.







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Old 12-29-2016, 07:11 AM   #23
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He is probably out of propane or the valve is off.
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:13 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by bootsmoore View Post
I am not fond of aqua hots....
Hard to challenge a man's "feelings" about a given technology - other than to point out that he's straying pretty far from the crowd. There's a reason why hydronic heating is the heat source of choice in virtually all the higher end coaches.

That's not to say that hydronic heating isn't without it's shortcomings. It DOES require more maintenance in order to keep it operating well. We regularly use ours in cold...er temperatures (20's and 30's).

We did have an issue with a thermostat that took some time to isolate and identify. However, once we got that addressed - we've had no problems.
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