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Old 12-27-2010, 03:41 PM   #15
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It's not the propane releasing moisture, it's the propane burning the oxygen content and leaving the moisture. Your going to die and not even know it.
That may be a good reason to replace your CO detector every 5 years.
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Old 12-27-2010, 03:47 PM   #16
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I got a deal on a good used wood stove if you are really looking to cut costs!
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Old 12-27-2010, 03:49 PM   #17
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Some missread the post;; Some think because you don't own there brand of motorhome you are somehow beneath them. Also the 6 AMP. draw is the blower on the propane furnace in your motorhome; It will take 7 AMPS; total ; Fan/igniter/Switches Etc. and 3 coach Batteries will handle that;;; Well it did for us From 1974to 2006 We sold our Sleds; We are sad.. But life is good
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Old 12-27-2010, 03:51 PM   #18
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It would be great if you could still get propane for 47 cents /gallon
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Old 12-27-2010, 03:58 PM   #19
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I agree with RJay, I run my ceramic space heaters to save wear on my air cond/heat pumps. When it gets down to 30 degrees or below then I turn on the furnace to heat the basement.

If it is below 30 for more than a few hours per day, then it's time for me to go somewhere warmer.
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Old 12-27-2010, 04:04 PM   #20
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We use the heat pump as it shuts off and automaticlly switch to gas when the temp drops. This eliminates the worry about the bays as the furnace takes care of it. I also think it is much safer, no cords running or a chance of something getting to hot. Just my opinion.
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Old 12-27-2010, 04:09 PM   #21
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You shouldn't wear out a heatpump. It's worse to leave them sit.


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Old 12-27-2010, 04:34 PM   #22
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It's not the propane releasing moisture, it's the propane burning the oxygen content and leaving the moisture. Your going to die and not even know it.
a k
Actually it's both. Unvented propane heaters produce large amounts of water which condensates on windows, walls and metal frames and if not properly vented may produce death. However, with proper ventilation and a unit with an oxygen depletion sensor, there have been no documented reports of death using these heaters. Also you should have carbon monoxide and dioxide detectors installed anyway and these should warn you if the above are not working properly. If you drive recklessly in a car you may die, same with these heaters.
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Old 12-28-2010, 06:16 PM   #23
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It's not the propane releasing moisture, it's the propane burning the oxygen content and leaving the moisture. Your going to die and not even know it.
If you have COMPLETE combustion of propane (C3H8) you will have water (H2O) and CO2:
C3H8 + 5 O2 ---> 3 CO2 + 4 H2O + Heat


If you have INCOMPLETE combustion of propane (not enough oxygen), the equation is:
2 C3H8 + 7 O2 → 2 CO2 + 2 CO + 2 C + 8 H2O + heat

This is when we have a problem, with the CO (carbon monoxide) forming as well as depleting the O2 (oxygen).

Ken

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Old 12-28-2010, 07:42 PM   #24
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There is a newer type of electric heater available that has not been discussed here. They use quartz lamps to heat copper plates and a quiet fan to gently blow the air. In a nutshell, they are awesome. However, they are a little spendy, $300 or so dollars. One of these heaters keeps our coach warm and toasty down into the teens, something not even two typical 1500 watt heaters can do.

We do not have a Aqua-Hot system in our coach so these newer type of heaters sure beats listening to the furnace cycle on and off. The downside is you either need to be plugged in to shore power or run the genny and have a heat source in the wet bay.
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Old 12-28-2010, 07:53 PM   #25
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Snowman 1,

What is the make and model please?

Not heating the wet bay isn't a downside for me since my wet bay isn't heated by the furnace.
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Old 12-29-2010, 04:56 PM   #26
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It's not the propane releasing moisture, it's the propane burning the oxygen content and leaving the moisture. Your going to die and not even know it.
I suggest a little research-- propane (and natural gas) contain a lot of water. Propane is over 40% water. For every 4 quarts of propane that's burned, over 3 quarts of water is released as vapor. And FWIW, propane space heaters have oxygen sensors to shut them down if they ARE burning too much oxygen. 4 years ago we spent the winter in a 36' Challenger 5'er, and we bought a 30,000 btu ventless fireplace to heat the place. It worked like gangbusters-- except for the condensation problem with burning the propane indoors. It's totally safe, puts out zero 02, and never had a lack-of-oxygen problem. Here's a couple of pics of it-- first pic is in the Challenger. Second pic it's in our houseboat, where it now resides to warm the place on cold mornings...
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:35 PM   #27
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If you have COMPLETE combustion of propane (C3H8) you will have water (H2O) and CO2:
C3H8 + 5 O2 ---> 3 CO2 + 4 H2O + Heat


If you have INCOMPLETE combustion of propane (not enough oxygen), the equation is:
2 C3H8 + 7 O2 → 2 CO2 + 2 CO + 2 C + 8 H2O + heat

This is when we have a problem, with the CO (carbon monoxide) forming as well as depleting the O2 (oxygen).

Ken

PlayItForward, Please look at the chemical equations in my post. Technically propane nor natural gas do not contain water. They are hydrocarbons made up from hydrogen and carbon molecules. When oxidized or burned in the presence of oxygen, water is small by product. From the equations and knowing the mole weight of the components you can determine that burning X moles of propane will produce Y moles of water.

Ken
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:37 PM   #28
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The moisture is the by product of the burning of propane. To each his own. How do you figure propane is 40% water?
I wish you Good luck.

I wonder why they put flues on propane and natural gas furnaces.

10-4 TX
Also, I believe proper ventilation means a FLUE>open window is the same thing.
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