Community Forums

cac · 09-22-2011, 06:44 AM

I am a newbe to rving. I have a 2011 Coachman Mirada (32') with 4K miles. I am ready to winterize.
How many quarts of oil for the V10? What oil filter and how do I get the inside engine cover off to put the oil in?

ga traveler · 09-22-2011, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cac

I am a newbe to rving. I have a 2011 Coachman Mirada (32') with 4K miles. I am ready to winterize.
How many quarts of oil for the V10? What oil filter and how do I get the inside engine cover off to put the oil in?

On the class A 6 quarts. On the class C 7 quarts. You should have a oil fill spout on the pass. side under the hood. You should NOT have to open the engine cover.

HD4Mark · 09-22-2011, 07:40 AM

I think a Fram PH2 fit the V10 we had but the easiest for sure way is to duck under and see if you can read the number off the filter then use a cross reference chart. I do remember when changing it that it seemed very small for a such a large engine. Ours was a E450 van chassis though so make sure before purchasing.

SuperGewl · 09-22-2011, 11:05 PM

Take it any Ford dealer to have it changed or even Camping World. Yo can also lokk up the data in the Manufactures book that should be in the Coach manual bag.
Personally I would spend the extra money and put in 100% synthetics, it's better for the engine and cheaper in the long run.

HD4Mark · 09-23-2011, 05:22 AM

One other thing I thought of. Check the viscosity of the oil. If I remember it is 5W30 or 0W30. Something unusual. It will be in the manual or on the cap for the filler tube.

Ours had a load of power!

W4MBG · 09-23-2011, 05:34 AM

5w20 for the oil, Motorcraft or Mobil-1. Motorcraft FL-820-S filter.

frankdamp · 09-23-2011, 08:07 AM

I don't quite understand why you'd do an oil change and then let it sit for months. Wouldn't it be better to let the old oil sit, then change it just before the start of the season?

cac · 09-23-2011, 03:34 PM

Having been in racing, I know that usage of oil (heat) creates moisture and foaming in the oil. Better to get the old out so that it does not have a chance to rust components.

W4MBG · 09-23-2011, 03:36 PM

you want to get the acids that have built up in the oil over the course of the driving season out of the engine. if you wait until spring, the acid in the oil can start eating at the inside of the oil pan. if you run the engine a little bit during the winter, you will have succeeded in circulating that acid all over the engine and then the residue will end up back in the oil pan. now the entire interior of the engine has a coating of acidified oil on it. not great. you must run the engine long enough to boil all the water and acid out. at least 1/2 hour at running temperature.

all-in-all, best to change the oil in the fall after the camping season, and then run it down the road for an hour per month or so. and take care of the genny the same way.

SuperGewl · 09-23-2011, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankdamp

I don't quite understand why you'd do an oil change and then let it sit for months. Wouldn't it be better to let the old oil sit, then change it just before the start of the season?

You change the oil prior to letting it sit for winter to remove the the nasty stuff that is created when you run an engine, which includes water and other byproducts that is bad for the engine. By installing new clean oil and letting it sit all winter yo don't have the bad stuff rusting out the inside of the engine.