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Old 11-08-2020, 05:10 PM   #15
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House Battery disconnect switch in " Use " position ?

House battery have 12.6 volts or more ?
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Old 11-08-2020, 06:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opa6x57 View Post
I'm guessing that switch is 'internal'?
YES.
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Old 11-08-2020, 06:46 PM   #17
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When you turn the furnace on can you go outside by the exhaust screen and can you hear the striker clicking. A common cause of a gas furnace stopping for no reason is the striker gap got worn to too great of a gap. It's a easy fix, but requires removing the furnace and bending the striker probe to close the gap.
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Old 11-08-2020, 07:06 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by opa6x57 View Post
I didn't winterize - because we plan to use the RV through the winter.

Today - I checked and it's cold inside the RV. Furnace won't start.
I have plenty of propane. Hot water heater is working. Cooktop working, also.

If the valve from the propane tank is fully opened you may get too much pressure to appease the sail switch due to regulator not regulating well. Your stove would still work. Try opening the valve at the tank just barely to see if that works. Easy test.
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Old 11-08-2020, 07:16 PM   #19
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If the valve from the propane tank is fully opened you may get too much pressure to appease the sail switch due to regulator not regulating well. Your stove would still work. Try opening the valve at the tank just barely to see if that works. Easy test.
The sail switch sense air flow. It has nothing to do with gas flow.
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Old 11-08-2020, 07:25 PM   #20
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Sail switch - would only come into play - AFTER the blower starts.
My issue is - the blower never starts.
The sail switch should be open - because the blower won't start.

I hope the electric space heater I put out there will keep it from freezing until I can either get a someone out to look at it - or take it to a shop, or something.

Step one of 'removal' is:

Quote:
Turn off gas and power, then disconnect gas and power supply at the furnace. Label wires as necessary.
I'm a big guy - there's no way on earth I will be able to get into that hole and disconnect anything. So - I'm screwed.
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Old 11-08-2020, 07:31 PM   #21
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If the valve from the propane tank is fully opened you may get too much pressure to appease the sail switch due to regulator not regulating well. Your stove would still work. Try opening the valve at the tank just barely to see if that works. Easy test.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
The sail switch sense air flow. It has nothing to do with gas flow.
And Propane Valves are NOT to be throttled...they should be FULLY Opened or FULLY Closed

Never partially open propane supply valves. They have seats to prevent leakage when fully open & fully closed.
Only packing/o-ring on valve stem prevents leakage when opening/closing valve

Besides....once propane valve is cracked open FULL propane pressure is going to Regulator which takes that 100-250# supply pressure down to 15# in 1st stage then regulates it down to 11'WC (0.39psi) at 2nd stage output.

Stove top/oven have their own LP Reg under the stove top.
It controls to 10"WC (0.36psi) for burners when Main LP System is at 11"WC
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Old 11-09-2020, 04:03 PM   #22
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Mobile service tech is on-site.
It appears Harney built the galley cabinetry around the furnace. This will be a HUGE HUGE PITA.

Based on his preliminary assessment - click comes from furnace when switched on - there's power down there - so either control module or fan - says he.
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Old 11-09-2020, 05:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by opa6x57 View Post
Mobile service tech is on-site.
It appears Harney built the galley cabinetry around the furnace. This will be a HUGE HUGE PITA.

Based on his preliminary assessment - click comes from furnace when switched on - there's power down there - so either control module or fan - says he.
Control module replaced.
Furnace working again.

Celebrate, good times, com'on...
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