Help!!!! No power to certain GFCI outlets

[followingsea]

Originally Posted by Cyanne

Thanks. Put this on my Harbor Freight shopping list. I was just in there last week too.

Do not buy this power monitor, it is a fire hazard in a MH application.

https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000...me+power+meter

This meter is better for two reason. It has a slightly higher amp rating and a short extension cord.

The short extension cord allows the power monitor to be not directly be plugged into a outlet. This allows for better heat transfer.

The slightly higher current rating allows testing of things like toaster oven, coffee maker, and microwave. I can only run one at a time when plugged into 20 amp shore power.

[FL420]

Originally Posted by followingsea

Do not buy this power monitor, it is a fire hazard in a MH application.

https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000...me+power+meter

This meter is better for two reason. It has a slightly higher amp rating and a short extension cord.

The short extension cord allows the power monitor to be not directly be plugged into a outlet. This allows for better heat transfer.

The slightly higher current rating allows testing of things like toaster oven, coffee maker, and microwave. I can only run one at a time when plugged into 20 amp shore power.

That does look like a nice power monitor. What makes you say that one is more of a fire hazard than the other though? I hope it's something more than the extension cord. I use my Kill-A-Watt with an extension cord also for two reasons. It keeps the back of the meter away from the front of the outlet to improve ease of access and to prevent heat from the meter from being transferred to the face of the outlet under heavier current draws. I got a pack of 3 or 4 for just a few dollars at Walmart.
I readily acknowledge that math is my Achilles heel. Calculus and statistics both kicked my butt a bit in college. When it comes to electricity and all the different formulas, well, that stuff just makes my brain hurt.
When it comes to a tool that is easy for the layman(or laywoman?[emoji848]) to understand, all other things being equal, I would recommend an electric meter that displays current in watts and amps, i.e. - the Kill-A-Watt, over one that displays current in watts and Root Mean Square (RMS), i.e. - the Poniie, since amps is used in all the owner's and user's manuals provided.
I must admit I sometimes struggle to remember to divide watts by volts to get amps. With the Kill-A-Watt all I have to do is push the AMPS button. I like that.
For a professional like yourself I can certainly understand why you would prefer a better tool than the Kill-A-Watt. I just feel it is adequate for and easier to use by the average person.
If there are significant material design, construction and quality of materials differences between the two meters making one more likely to overheat I would certainly choose the better quality one if the price wasn't "electrifying."
Sorry. The devil [emoji48] made me do it.

[Cyanne]

Originally Posted by followingsea

Do not buy this power monitor, it is a fire hazard in a MH application.

https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000...me+power+meter

This meter is better for two reason. It has a slightly higher amp rating and a short extension cord.

The short extension cord allows the power monitor to be not directly be plugged into a outlet. This allows for better heat transfer.

The slightly higher current rating allows testing of things like toaster oven, coffee maker, and microwave. I can only run one at a time when plugged into 20 amp shore power.

[emoji106]

[followingsea]

Originally Posted by FL420

What makes you say that one is more of a fire hazard than the other though?

The picture you or maybe someone else posted of a scorched wall outlet. The one I use has a higher current rating.

Having said that, everything electrical is a fire and safety hazard. Consumer products are designed to meet a standard of no more than one failure resulting in a fatality in a million units. I am skeptical of cheap Chinese junk like solar systems and electric blanket controllers. Fortunately when mine failed it did not catch the bedding on fire. I investigated and found a 25% failure rate including some that caused house fires.

This is a particular concern in an RV because a small fire can gut an RV in less than 5 minutes. RV bounce around a lot and have multiple sources of power.

A power meter is useful in mitigating the risk by helping understand how things work and identifying when they are not working correctly.

For example, I keep my power meter plugged in reading voltage using the short extension cord. I check the voltage drop when using the microwave. It cooks much faster at 120 vac then 105 vac. Significant issues when setting popcorn on fire.