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Old 11-29-2021, 09:35 PM   #1
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Hot water tank leak

Ok, I'm going to post 2 questions separately because the other one is generator electrical and this one is water.. and I know that electricity and water don't really mix!

31' phoenix by cobra '92 model, and I've had it about 3 weeks now. Living in it for 2... lol
Replaced the stove, got the fridge going on gas, and the project of the day today was water. Turned the pump on last night and heard a pop followed by the sound of water from behind the toilet. So started with a new toilet valve then a shower shut off that was leaking. Then went back to the water heater and there is water running from the top plug right over the electrical panel (never good) in today's day and age, is it worth pulling the heater apart and seeing if it is just a plug or worse? Or just time for a new one?

Thanks in advance

Eric
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Old 11-29-2021, 10:47 PM   #2
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Top plug? Picture? If it's simple, it's a lot cheaper than a new water heater.
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Old 11-29-2021, 11:06 PM   #3
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Better description would help....

Is 'plug' in outside compartment ?
OR
Is 'plug' on backside of water heater tank ?


Do you know the brand/model of water heater?
*exterior access panel....where is the louvered vent
Top Left corner...Atwood Brand
Top Right Corner....Suburban Brand

Outside compartment would be the T&P Relief Valve...they are easily replaced

Backside of Water Heater Tank....could be Hot water outlet also repairable
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:10 AM   #4
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Inside compartment looks like maybe a 3/4- 1 inch pipe plug but I'm not sure if it is coming from the plug or on the top of the tank... according to all the paperwork it's a suburban
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:27 AM   #5
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That looks like a Mor-Flo water heater (precursor to Suburban)

That 'plug' is the Anode Rod.....sacrificial rod to protect the steel glass line tank from corrosion

3/4" NPT threads (tapered)
New ones readily available
*Liquid Wretch/Penetrating Oil etc soak then try to tight then unscrew
Gonna be TIGHT...might need cheater bar to break loose



Below it is the Circuit Board....to the right of board is the T-stat/Electric Element
Circuit Board is 12VDC and is for the Propane
*Controls gas valve and high voltage for spark to ignite the gas

T-stat/Element 120VAC....high temp t-stat has a manual reset (button)
120VAC should be direct from 15A Circuit Breaker to On/Off Switch to t-stat/Element

Good Luck!
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Old 11-30-2021, 04:13 AM   #6
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But with a unit that old, is it worth repairing?
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Old 11-30-2021, 09:23 AM   #7
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Not going to find most parts so NO.......

Measure cut out for current WH and then check out available Suburban models
https://www.airxcel.com/rv/suburban/water-heaters
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