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Old 11-13-2016, 09:52 PM   #15
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Backside of water heater
COLD line inlet (BOTTOM) and a HOT line outlet (TOP).
If you have a BYPASS line it will connect between COLD & HOT.

Drain water heater tank via drain plug in outside compartment.
Drain COLD & HOT water lines (RV Plumbing System) viz the LOW POINT Drains (ones that go thru floor to outside and onto ground)


Atwood OR Suburban do NOT supply isolation valves/bypasses/check valves etc.
RV MFG. installs those so no real standards.
Some no valving
Some 1 valve and then a check valve
Some 2 valves and a check valve
Some 3 valves
ETC.
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Old 11-13-2016, 09:59 PM   #16
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I installed a water heater bipass, and winterizing valve near the pump, on our '93/4 Flair last winter. The bipass looked like ScottyByes diagram except it only had two valves, one at each juncture of the line and bipass line. They were 1/4 turn two way valves and directed fluid either through the line while blocking the bipass or, through the bipass while blocking the line. Don't forget to drain the tank. You may decide to replace the plug there with a valve.

You are very correct, there is very little working space. I removed a panel held in place by a few (4?) screws and a heater duct that ran through that area, collapsing it back beyond the water heater. That gained a little more room. I was concerned about leaks and was happy with the water heater bipass, but not so much with the winterizing valve. With it I had to add a bit of line and move the water pump to make room in the line for the valve. There is a very small leak in it that I still have to correct.

Best of luck.

Steve
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Old 11-13-2016, 10:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dipstick67 View Post
Thanks Scotty for all the info and links that's just what I was looking for.
Glad we could help....
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:40 AM   #18
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So much for a year old memory in a 77 year old head. I was out working on the leak yesterday and determined that I removed two panels to get to the water heater. One near the floor with 4 screws and another one inside a door held by 4 screws.

Hopefully, you already have this done, but I thought I'd add this in case you didn't.

Steve
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Old 11-19-2016, 12:37 PM   #19
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My leak appears to be fixed.

While I was there I verified that there are two drains in mine (26' '94 Flair) that go through the floor just forward of the water heater. The only way to get to them is to remove one of the two panels mentioned in an earlier post. I didn't want you to miss them. There are also two drains under the shower and one for the fresh tank.

Hope you get them all and there are no problems.

Steve
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Old 11-20-2016, 02:52 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by dix39 View Post
My leak appears to be fixed.

While I was there I verified that there are two drains in mine (26' '94 Flair) that go through the floor just forward of the water heater. The only way to get to them is to remove one of the two panels mentioned in an earlier post. I didn't want you to miss them. There are also two drains under the shower and one for the fresh tank.

Hope you get them all and there are no problems.

Steve
I have opened the drain valves on the WH and on the fresh tank, didn't know about the shower. I'll check that out. Thanks dix39
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