How do you run your generator under load while RV is covered for winter?

[TheWoodBoss]

Just run your refrigerator in AC mode, that should be enough.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by TheWoodBoss

Just run your refrigerator in AC mode, that should be enough.

Fridge is about 5 amps. Its recomended that they run at 50% load or 15 amps for a 4000 watt and up as the watts climb.

[airshot]

Use a good quality synthetic oil, then you wont have thick oil issues. Multigrade full synthetic oils dont get real thick like dino oils do. They also dont get water thin under heat like dino oil does. These are the biggest reasons people are using them.

[TheWoodBoss]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Fridge is about 5 amps. Its recomended that they run at 50% load or 15 amps for a 4000 watt and up as the watts climb.

You could run the hot water heater to add amps as well. The onboard battery charger is good for another 1 or 2 amps.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by TheWoodBoss

You could run the hot water heater to add amps as well. The onboard battery charger is good for another 1 or 2 amps.

Within seconds of you switching on the water heater, the element will burn out, if not submerged in water.

Not a good suggestion for northerners who drain them.

[Griswald One]

I normally just run a couple of plugin heaters to put a load on it... I have wondered though... Does the heat pump in the roof top A/C require circulating air from the outside? If not this could be used to assist is putting on a load. Just be careful to set the temp within 3 degrees of the thermostat so that the furnace does not kick in. The furnace port can get hot enough to burn a hole through your cover... Guess how I know that

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Ivylog

I have better things to do with my time than run a generator every month. Put stabilizer in your full gas tank and run the engine and generator long enough to get it to both engines. Park it, cover it and go RVing in the spring.

The factory recommendation to run the genset 2hrs/month is not for the engine, it's for the actual generator. Moisture can corrode the windings and loosen the cement holding the magnets in place. This runtime is to evaporate any moisture in the windings.

[Ivylog]

Magnetic coming out was because the surface was smooth and the cure was to ruff the surface up so the glue would hold better.

[tcg]

Originally Posted by Ivylog

Oman’s statement on: “Exercising Your Generator
It may seem surprising that “not” using a machine could cause performance problems, but with RV generators that’s exactly the case. Regular “exercise” is
an important part of keeping your generator healthy. Lack of exercise can cause moisture build-up and fuel system degradation that make it run poorly. In fact, in as little as 30 days, the fuel in gasoline-powered generators can begin to gum and varnish the fuel system. Fuel varnishing results in hard starting and surging. (A surging generator never settles at a stable operating speed.)
To prevent such problems, it is recommended to run gasoline generators at a minimum of 50 percent capacity (2000-watts, or one air conditioner for a 4000-watt set) for two hours once every four weeks. This is necessary to help keep moving parts lubricated, expel moisture and control fuel varnishing in the carburetor. A long two-hour exercise period is preferable to several short periods. While traveling, this can be accomplished by running the air conditioning. If you own a diesel generator, regular exercising can help reduce internal condensationand helps keep seals lubricated.”
When taken in context “internal condensation” is referring to the diesel engine. Nowhere under gasoline is moisture mentioned. Magnetic coming out was because the surface was smooth and the cure was to ruff the surface up so the glue would hold better.

Also from Onan's manual...

Q: I will not be using/exercising my generator every month. What do I need to do?
A: LPG — No special requirements

Gasoline — Depending upon your location in the country, gasoline can start to deteriorate in as little as 30 days Treat the entire fuel tank with gasoline stabilizer Run genset for two hours at 50 to 70 percent load This process will circulate the treated fuel through the entire fuel system

Diesel — Diesel is a very stable fuel If the recreational vehicle will be in storage greater than six months, treat the entire fuel tank with a diesel stabilizer Run genset for two hours at 50 to 70 percent load This process will circulate the treated fuel through the entire fuel system.

Tips to prevent generator fuel varnishing when storing your RV or for infrequent use (if you don’t go through a full tank of fuel in less than 30 days):

Treat your fuel tank with a preservative like OnaFresh™, then exercise your generator

Run the generator dry, then drain its carburetor float bowl To drain the float bowl, do the following:

Let the engine cool down thoroughly Place paper towels under the drain to absorb all of the drainage (less than 1/2 cup)
Open the drain valve by turning it counterclockwise with a screwdriver.

Close the drain valve after draining the carburetor by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver until just snug.

Point is, there is a storage procedure if it's not practical to exercise a generator.

[UTTransplant]

Do you have a convection oven? Run it at 400 degrees for the time you need to exercise the generator. Add a space heater or two, and you will definitely be loading your generator.

[joncalhoun]

A little late to respond, but thank you everyone for the feedback and ideas!

I think what I'm going to do is combine a few here. Namely:

1. Add fuel stabilizer
2. Run the generator with a few space heaters for an hour or two.

My cover isn't too hard to get in and out of the RV with, it is easy to keep the cover off the exhaust pipe from the generator, and I already have some space heaters so this seems like the easiest approach to running under load.

I want to add the stabilizer just in case I can't get out to run it and because I can't imagine it hurting anything to add it as a precaution. I'm not willing to abandon running it under load all winter because the previous owner let it sit for a while (6+mo) and it got gunked up and the carb needed fixed. It has been running great since, but I don't want to take any chances.

[1972VWbus]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

The factory recommendation to run the genset 2hrs/month is not for the engine, it's for the actual generator. Moisture can corrode the windings and loosen the cement holding the magnets in place. This runtime is to evaporate any moisture in the windings.

Incorrect. They do not use glue to hold magnet/s in place. They are held in place in a molded dielectric spring loaded fitting that is bolted in place against slip ring/s. The spring keeps constant tension against the slip ring.

[NHRA225]

Originally Posted by 1972VWbus

Incorrect. They do not use glue to hold magnet/s in place. They are held in place in a molded dielectric spring loaded fitting that is bolted in place against slip ring/s. The spring keeps constant tension against the slip ring.

All of the QD series Onan’s - Hdkaj and hdkad 7.5 and 8.0 quiet Gennys have Magnets Glued in place on the Stators- very common that they come loose and Frag the Rotor in the Mid 90’s up to 2005 - Basically due to lack of use !