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Old 10-19-2021, 09:06 AM   #1
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How do you torque your high torque lug nuts?

I had new tires put on the front of my DP a few months ago and it's recommended to check their torque after 100 miles. It's been about 2000 miles and I still haven't done this.

It was easy with my gasser because it only required 165 ft lbs. My DP requires 450 - 500 ft lbs. It's not convenient to take it back to the tire shop and I really doubt if they apply the correct torque to start with. I don't want to spend the money on a big honking torque wrench either that I would probably use 2 or 3 times.

I was wondering if you can use a torque multiplier and it apply the correct amount using it with a low torque torque wrench? I've looked at them, just can't figure if they would work for this use.

Anyone have a better idea how to torque these monster nuts?
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:21 AM   #2
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On the road I bring a torque multiplier. You calculate from the ratio of the multiplier what the lower torque should be on the opposite of the nut side. Plus 10% for friction losses inside the multiplier. So for simple math, if it's a 10:1 multiplier, 450 ft lb end result would be 45 plus 4.5 or 50ftlbs. Most don't have that much multiplier.

keep the multiplier at right angles to the wheel face and the torque wrench it right angles to the axle so you aren't putting angle and friction losses into the system.
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:06 AM   #3
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On the road I bring a torque multiplier. You calculate from the ratio of the multiplier what the lower torque should be on the opposite of the nut side. Plus 10% for friction losses inside the multiplier. So for simple math, if it's a 10:1 multiplier, 450 ft lb end result would be 45 plus 4.5 or 50ftlbs. Most don't have that much multiplier.

keep the multiplier at right angles to the wheel face and the torque wrench it right angles to the axle so you aren't putting angle and friction losses into the system.
Sounds like this would be a good way to do the torqueing. Just need to do the math on what the multiplier ratio is plus the friction loss.

I wasn't really sure if these were accurate. Sounds like they should be good.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:12 AM   #4
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Yep, torque multiplier. On mine it's 151 ft lbs in equals 500 ft lbs out.
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:15 AM   #5
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Another torque multiplier is simple leverage. For example if you know what 100# feels like then you could use a 4.5' cheater pipe over the breaker bar, and for 100# of pressure against the end of the pipe, the torque of the lugnut will be 450#. You could also use different lengths, for example, if you weighed 150# (as most men do not...) then a 3' cheater pipe extension with all of your weight on it would give you the same 450 ft lbs of torque being 3x150=450. I use a simple 1-1/4" diameter thick walled steel galvanized pre-cut pipe (5') from HomeDepot for my heavy duty needs. ~CA
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:27 AM   #6
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3/4" drive ratchet and a 4' long cheater bar is what I carry.
When re-torquing your basically checking for any lug nuts that may be loose. I also carry a torque multiplier set, but only use it for lug nut removal and initial torque, finishing with the ratchet/cheater bar set up.
It's very easy to over torque things with a torque multiplier and never even know your doing damage.
With practice the cheater bar will get you very close to recommended torque, in our case 450 ft lb.
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Old 10-19-2021, 12:03 PM   #7
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Another torque multiplier is simple leverage. For example if you know what 100# feels like then you could use a 4.5' cheater pipe over the breaker bar, and for 100# of pressure against the end of the pipe, the torque of the lugnut will be 450#. You could also use different lengths, for example, if you weighed 150# (as most men do not...) then a 3' cheater pipe extension with all of your weight on it would give you the same 450 ft lbs of torque being 3x150=450. I use a simple 1-1/4" diameter thick walled steel galvanized pre-cut pipe (5') from HomeDepot for my heavy duty needs. ~CA
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3/4" drive ratchet and a 4' long cheater bar is what I carry.
When re-torquing your basically checking for any lug nuts that may be loose. I also carry a torque multiplier set, but only use it for lug nut removal and initial torque, finishing with the ratchet/cheater bar set up.
It's very easy to over torque things with a torque multiplier and never even know your doing damage.
With practice the cheater bar will get you very close to recommended torque, in our case 450 ft lb.
That's an interesting idea. I don't ever plan to remove these huge tires myself. So I can get a 2.5' cheater bar and at 190 lbs that puts me in the middle at 475 ft lbs.

I'm going to give that a try and see how it works.

Thanks.
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Old 10-19-2021, 02:28 PM   #8
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I bought one of these along with a 4' 3/4" breaker bar and the right size socket.

Neiko 20743A Digital Torque Adapter, 3/4" Drive | 150-750 Foot-Pound | Audible Alert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW...4NTT1KY0QP3W3B

All in about $150 IIRC. Works good.
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Old 10-19-2021, 02:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69Stang View Post
That's an interesting idea. I don't ever plan to remove these huge tires myself. So I can get a 2.5' cheater bar and at 190 lbs that puts me in the middle at 475 ft lbs.

I'm going to give that a try and see how it works.

Thanks.
I would recommend something just a little longer, perhaps 3' or 4', the reason being is that anytime you have to use your full body weight on something like this, you run a high risk of falling, slipping, and hurting yourself. I know this first hand for sure over the years.

Keep in mind that if you had a 3' cheater pipe that you would be using all but 40# of your weight (for 450# torque 3'x150#) which would keep your feet somewhat firmly planted. Not too mention, if you are using the math to calculate the torque, even with a longer pipe you don't have to put the pressure at the end of the pipe, you could still push down full body weight at 2.5' out. ~CA
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Old 10-19-2021, 02:42 PM   #10
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I use my 3/4" Proto torque wrench.


A torque multiplier will work as well.
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Old 10-19-2021, 03:04 PM   #11
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You may not like my suggestion BUT, if it is not convenient to go back to the tire shop you bought your tires at, call a local tire shop and ask how much to check them.

I just had mine retorqued this morning. They do a very accurate job of getting it right. The use an air wrench that has a pressure box supplying it and set it to the required ft pounds. Took them less than 10 minutes to do. I can't imagine more than $50 to do them.
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Old 10-19-2021, 04:35 PM   #12
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I called a Loves truck stop that was about 200 miles from home. I asked on my next trip after installing new tires if they would recheck the torque. I did tell him they were not purchased from Loves. The tire manager said he would for no charge. He gave me his cell number and the days he was working. Called him the day before we left and approximate time of arrival.

He checked the the torque and I gave him $20 and went on my way.
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Old 10-19-2021, 04:48 PM   #13
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I studied up on torque multiplier torque accuracy .....up to 3-1 is okay to use with torque wrench + 10 %. This may have been for thing a bit more exact torque critical that lug nuts. By the time you add up costs may as well get electronic torque extension and big breaker bar/ratchet.
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Old 10-19-2021, 06:31 PM   #14
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Yep, torque multiplier. On mine it's 151 ft lbs in equals 500 ft lbs out.
Funny, I just checked my Proto torque multiplier and it indicates 152 ft lbs in equals 500 ft lbs out!

BTW, I had a tire shop check my lugs after I torqued them and they matched.
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