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Old 12-19-2017, 03:57 PM   #15
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I agree mostly but would use eternabond and m1 adhesive sealant not dicor.
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by marjoa View Post
,,, After that old material is removed, wash with soap & water and let dry. I would NOT use Eternabond tape around the edges. If you ever have to replace one of those vent covers, shower cover (like if one gets a crack in it or something), or replace an antenna for whatever reason and so on, removing that tape WILL tear your roof material. That is some tough stuff and would be IMO impossible to remove without damaging your roof material.,,,
Have actually had to remove Eternabond to replace a shower skylight so I can say that is not true. Took me about 90 minutes. The tape was only slightly harder to get off the multiple layers of liquid sealant. A heat gun makes the job easy. A wipe of minimal spirits and the roof was ready for the step two.

And yes that's Eternabond on the broken skylight. Weather guessers predicted an overnight thunderstorm to pass 100 miles north of Kansas City. Ended up going 50 miles south right over the campground. Manual awning was gone in the blink of an eye. Rolled everything over the top of the coach and shattered the skylight 1000 miles from home. The skylight stayed taped and leak free for almost year. Melting snow didn't leak thru.
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:45 PM   #17
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For the tank vents I used putty tape around the pipe and under the edge of the cap. Sealed the hardware with non-self leveling sealant. End result turned out really well.
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:08 PM   #18
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I always see everyone talking about Dicor. Is that the caulk that comes from the factory that cracks and flakes off?? I personally don't under why you would use something that has failed again. On every RV I have worked on I always used mule hide seam tape, and NP-1 Elastomeric, Polyurethane Sealant. There are other brands I have used in a pinch, but the polyurethane sealant bonds to everything, and stays flexible for what seems like ever. I have seen it used on expansion joints up to 4" wide. NP-! is absolutely amazing stuff. I used the NP-1 on my bosses coach 10 years ago and haven't had to touch it since. just inspect it once a year.
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Old 12-20-2017, 05:54 AM   #19
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Have actually had to remove Eternabond to replace a shower skylight so I can say that is not true. Took me about 90 minutes. The tape was only slightly harder to get off the multiple layers of liquid sealant. A heat gun makes the job easy. A wipe of minimal spirits and the roof was ready for the step two.
Well I stand corrected then when I said, "That is some tough stuff and would be IMO impossible to remove without damaging your roof material.,,,

But that's why I said, IMO. Glad it worked for you, but for me I still would not use the tape around roof items on a TPO roof. It's just not necessary and to risky and difficult for me if it ever needed to be removed. To each his own. If someone wanted to use it on a Fiberglass roof different story. IMO.

When I completely redid my fiberglass roof over a year ago, I did use tape on my end cap seams. Removing ALL the old Dicor I found was not that big a deal and didn't use a heat gun either. But everyone has their own method and this was mine and turned out great.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/fina...ne-316925.html
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Old 12-20-2017, 08:55 AM   #20
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I tore the rubber roof on our previous RV and repaired it with Dicor products from Camping World.
Fortunately, the rubber was the only thing damaged and not the solid wood under it.
I cleaned the surface, used a 4" wide roll of rubber roof repair from Dicor (sticky on one side and applied it directly to the existing rubber roof.
The glue back was extremely strong.
I used a Dicor, "self levelling" caulking on the edges and the end result was excellent.
The overall colour blended in well and was that noticeable.
I also used the "self levelling" caulking on the cracked caulking around the roof vents etc. and it worked great.
After two years, no splitting, no cracks and no leaks.
When we sold the RV, the new buyer never even noticed the repair!
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Old 12-26-2017, 10:47 PM   #21
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I got the eternabond and Dicor in and hope to fix the cut tomorrow. But the high is only 35 degrees and the instructions for the eternabond say to use EternaPrime if the temp is below 40. Do you guys think itís necessary? Itís not sold locally so Iíd have to order it and wait a few more days and thereís the possibility of snow this weekend. Or is there something else I can use?
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Old 12-26-2017, 11:01 PM   #22
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Clean the slit well, and then squeeze some silicone under the roof (through the slit) and press the roof down tight and clean any exposed silicone off.
I believe that using silicon almost anywhere other than in bathrooms and on rain gutters should be a criminal offense. There are plenty of other adhesives that are better yet are paintable and removable or can have caulking put over the top. Get silicone smeared in the wrong place and it is just about impossible to remove properly

Quote:
I always see everyone talking about Dicor. Is that the caulk that comes from the factory that cracks and flakes off?? I personally don't under why you would use something that has failed again.
--- and again, AND AGAIN.. But I guess an industry that uses water-soluble lauan as a lining material of choice below joints filled with that disintegrating calk aren't about to learn from their customers' misery any time soon.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:29 AM   #23
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I believe that using silicon almost anywhere other than in bathrooms and on rain gutters should be a criminal offense. There are plenty of other adhesives that are better yet are paintable and removable or can have caulking put over the top. Get silicone smeared in the wrong place and it is just about impossible to remove properly



--- and again, AND AGAIN.. But I guess an industry that uses water-soluble lauan as a lining material of choice below joints filled with that disintegrating calk aren't about to learn from their customers' misery any time soon.
If what you suggest were true Tony, then I am a wanted man in at least 35 states. By your own description you would not use silicone in the bathroom either. Since you might want to paint it there also and it is probably just as difficult to remove in the bathroom as well. Difficult to remove is a good quality, one that you want when trying to keep water out. I suggested putting it UNDER the torn roof where it will never be removed or painted. And having said all that how do you know that the tear in the roof was not directly over the bathroom?
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:47 PM   #24
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That looks like a job for EternaBond.

Just don't let the wife see you borrowing her rolling pin from the kitchen.
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