How to remove Tag Tire?

[twinboat]

In a bind, call road service truck to pull the tire and block the axle up.
Once the spline is greased, call him back to reinstall.

[TTD]

Originally Posted by mackwrench

Were they able to access the top pto to pump bolt? It looks just as difficult....... check to make sure the pump to PTO adapter bolts are tight as well. I think they are allen head. I've seen some get loose on other applications and makes for a mess....

As far as I know, yes they got the bolts connecting the units apart. Hoping with the tag off, it won't be that hard of a job.

I actually suggested that to the second shop, but he was adamant he could do it from underneath.

I'll be sure everything is tight before I put it back together. I'm very meticulous when it comes to this kind of stuff. I wish I could find a good mechanic that was also meticulous.

[CampDaven]

Do it on a level spot.
And put chocks between the drive tires.

[Bob Hyatt]

Originally Posted by TTD

I need to do some work directly behind the tag tire - that would be much easier with the tag tire off.

I do not have a jack that can lift my coach, so I'm looking for alternatives from anyone that has seen it done, or did it themselves?

So option 1 is to drive the dual axle up onto wood blocks, enough so that the tag would be off the ground. Would this work, or will the tag stay on the ground even with the dual tires elevated?

Option 2 would be to use the TAG RAISE button. Any reason not to use that and then remove the wheel?

Thank you,

Whether the tag remains on the ground or not is irrelevant. Most any floor jack will jack the tag off the ground if your bags or levelers are doing their job. The tag is not that heavy. I'd personally rather have the tag raised by a floor axle and supported by a jack stand before working anywhere around it.

[pwhittle]

If you have to disconnect the hoses on the pump, be prepared for the hydraulic fluid coming out.

I recently rebuilt my hydraulic pump and had 10 gallons of hydraulic fluid come out. I was expecting it and was prepared.

Paul

[ESPO]

You can release all the weight on the tag axel by reducing tag air bag pressure to zero. The main rear axle (4 tires) will then be carrying all the weight of the rear of the motorhome. It shouldn't overload the rear axle, since this is what happens when you lift the tag axle.
Then you only need a small flooring jack to raise 1/2 the weight of the tag axle, tires and brakes, none of the motorhome weight while you have the tire & wheel off.
Safe and nothing to fall off of.

[1doodadd]

WOW!

[Gordon Dewald]

Originally Posted by ESPO

You can release all the weight on the tag axel by reducing tag air bag pressure to zero. The main rear axle (4 tires) will then be carrying all the weight of the rear of the motorhome. It shouldn't overload the rear axle, since this is what happens when you lift the tag axle.
Then you only need a small flooring jack to raise 1/2 the weight of the tag axle, tires and brakes, none of the motorhome weight while you have the tire & wheel off.
Safe and nothing to fall off of.

This is one of the better thoughts on removing the tag.

[stumpnc]

I believe there is a update grease kit for this so you don't have to disassemble in order to grease.
Brad Metzger on the Forforums website had issues with his in 2015 stripping the spines off the shaft due to no lube. There are mentions of a wet lube kit and /or a grease fitting being installed. You might research it if you are going to have to pull it. I'd update it if at all possible. That's a PITA especially if it craps out on the road.
Here is a link to a solution to your issue
http://www.jdrv1.com/id13.html

[Al Brooker]

I use a torque multiplier to loosen the lug nuts on my 22.5" RV wheels. When reinstalling, I use a 3/4" breaker bar with a pipe extension and a digital torque meter that's good to 700 ft- lbs. To lift my wheels, I use a 20 ton air over hydraulic bottle jack. I have the low profile one that's under 10". Less than $300 for everything. This way you can check your lug nut torque frequently without taking it to a shop. Besides, not all shops are going to take the time torque your 60 lug nuts.

[TTD]

Originally Posted by stumpnc

I believe there is a update grease kit for this so you don't have to disassemble in order to grease....
Here is a link to a solution to your issue
CHELSEA PTO

Yes, I have researched it to death and that might be the long term plan.

I was hoping to get a look at the splines, and go from there.

After 5 hours of trying today, I am still unable to separate the Hydraulic pump from the PTO adapter plate. I have removed the support bracket and the 2 bolts holding the pump to the adapter plate.

I can rotate the pump about 2 inches or so - before the hoses stop it. There is slack in the hoses so that doesn't appear to be the issue... but no amount of force will separate the pump.

[twinboat]

It not pulling apart is not a good sign. I've seen that happen when the spline are worn.

The splines of the pump shaft are not full length and wear deeper in the bore of the PTO. They get out of alignment and need to be pulled thru the good spines which are filled with the rust of the worn parts.

Try a cable puller wrapped around the pump and back to a cross member. You don't want to drive chisels into the gap.

Leave the bolts in, but loose, and put some tension on it and then give it some hits with a soft blow hammer or 4X4 block of wood.

[TTD]

Yeah... I'm worried that the splines are what's keeping it from pulling apart.

I don't want to do anything that might break the splines - without having the time to get new parts installed.

I need to use the motorhome every 2 weeks until the end of September... then I have a couple of months off before driving it from Massachusetts to Florida in December.

I guess I have to just hope it holds up until then?

[stumpnc]

If the spines strip like Brads did you will be sitting on the side of the hiway. As you know it is way less expensive to fix it now than then.