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Old 07-02-2017, 02:24 AM   #15
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I store my motorhome at a covered storage facility not far away from my home, Each storage spot has a 15 amp outlet to use to keep the house batteries charged. I use a 50-amp to 15 amp adapter with a short 25 foot extension cord. The night before a weekend outing, I turn on my Norcold NX841 refrigerator on "electricity setting' so it is cold the next morning for all of the "stuff" we bring on our outings.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:26 AM   #16
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I'll try next time with a shorter cord and also setting the incoming to 20A. But I also need to do a test for my own education and let the batteries run down until AGS kicks in and see how long they actually go. I have a hunch I can go days with my use and need to not worry about a few days at the house disconnected from power or generator. Kind of like validating the E on the car gas tank
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:41 AM   #17
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Sounds like a good test for your AGS but most equipment has a menu item so you can set the voltage level you want your genset to start at. Need to make sure the house outlet you are trying to use is not GFI protected. Most modern surge equip wont let you use GFI protected plugs.... Something to do with the way the neutral and ground are treated within the GFI plug......?????
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:57 AM   #18
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Sounds like a good test for your AGS but most equipment has a menu item so you can set the voltage level you want your genset to start at. Need to make sure the house outlet you are trying to use is not GFI protected. Most modern surge equip wont let you use GFI protected plugs.... Something to do with the way the neutral and ground are treated within the GFI plug......?????
Yes, the outlet next to my front door on my house is in fact GFI and I was worried about that. Will use a different outlet from the garage next time.

I know I can test the AGS but I want to get a field test of how long the batteries actually last before it gets to that point. Confidence in the system through testing it real world...kind of like keeping an iPhone on a charger all the time vs. letting the batteries cycle and actually see how long you can go.
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Old 07-02-2017, 07:32 PM   #19
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Mine doesn't like a gfi plug at all. Tried it at home and at storage and it would trip it (the house gfi) every time...sometimes immediately, other times after a few hours. Wasn't an amp issue I am sure of....something about the neutral and ground and imbalance I believe. I have never got it to work on a gfi
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:24 AM   #20
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Mine doesn't like a gfi plug at all. Tried it at home and at storage and it would trip it (the house gfi) every time...sometimes immediately, other times after a few hours. Wasn't an amp issue I am sure of....something about the neutral and ground and imbalance I believe. I have never got it to work on a gfi
Same for me. I have turned the SHORE setting down to 15A or below and it still trips a GFI immediately. Next time I am faced with that, I am going to try connecting smart battery charger to the house batteries instead.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:05 AM   #21
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To the original poster, NealC,
your coach is new enough to have the 'smartest' converter/inverter so you shouldn't have to set the amp limit down manually (IMHO), it should automatically 'know' the amps in and will shed load if needed.

Different coach, but I too wanted to know and had to 'prove' the ags worked on for me, so I could possibly stop using the extension cords..
I had two 50 amp extension cords that I would use when loading up at the house and they were like fighting anacondas to lay out, etc... !

the temp level test test was very easy last summer when it was 105 degrees outside - as soon as it sensed I had set the temp setting to a low temp, it fired up the genny...

The next test was setting the volts to as high as it would set, 12.2 volts, and turning on all the lights (before I swapped to LED's) and inverter for the res fridge... it actually took a while before the ags started then genny, but after that I trusted the AGS and no longer use the extension cords at home...

At the storage facility I did get a heavy gauge outdoor extension for the batteries only... good luck !
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:55 AM   #22
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To the original poster, NealC,
your coach is new enough to have the 'smartest' converter/inverter so you shouldn't have to set the amp limit down manually (IMHO), it should automatically 'know' the amps in and will shed load if needed.

Different coach, but I too wanted to know and had to 'prove' the ags worked on for me, so I could possibly stop using the extension cords..
I had two 50 amp extension cords that I would use when loading up at the house and they were like fighting anacondas to lay out, etc... !

the temp level test test was very easy last summer when it was 105 degrees outside - as soon as it sensed I had set the temp setting to a low temp, it fired up the genny...

The next test was setting the volts to as high as it would set, 12.2 volts, and turning on all the lights (before I swapped to LED's) and inverter for the res fridge... it actually took a while before the ags started then genny, but after that I trusted the AGS and no longer use the extension cords at home...

At the storage facility I did get a heavy gauge outdoor extension for the batteries only... good luck !
Good info and you are correct, it does sense the incoming amps because this was a problem on the factory pickup, they had an issue where the coach was only seeing 30A so the EMS was shedding causing the issues I had. I think it was the GFI outlet as the main problem, second may be a low quality ext cord.

The anaconda comment made me laugh! Funny!
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:27 AM   #23
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To the original poster, NealC,
your coach is new enough to have the 'smartest' converter/inverter so you shouldn't have to set the amp limit down manually (IMHO), it should automatically 'know' the amps in and will shed load if needed.
!
The load sheading system does not actually sense amps, it samples incoming voltage.

If it sees 240 volts, a standard RV 50 amp service, it assumes that it is 50 amp service.

It if sees 120 volts, a standard 30 amp RV service, it assumes 30 amp service. Once it sees it's 120 volts, it defalts to 30 amp service. You can then manually change it to a lower amp rating, 20, 15, 10......

An actuall " amp test " would require increasing the load until the supply breaker tripped, back at the outlet.
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:37 AM   #24
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Good info and you are correct, it does sense the incoming amps because this was a problem on the factory pickup, they had an issue where the coach was only seeing 30A so the EMS was shedding causing the issues I had. I think it was the GFI outlet as the main problem, second may be a low quality ext cord.

The anaconda comment made me laugh! Funny!
One of these for when you have 30 amp and it's not close -

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55501-P...c+cords+30+amp

Then one of these for 120 - 50 ' - 10 ga -

https://www.amazon.com/Lighted-Exten...0%2Bgauge&th=1

If you are any further the line drop will pretty much suck up the voltage so fire up the generator. 30' of 50 amp + 30' of 30 amp + 50' of 15 amp - should handle most everything.

Just incase you didn't get the pressure regulator - it would be in my hook up compartment of on the end of my hose.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40055-B...J6AW825J9HFDBS

Think you are ready to get out on the Road,
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:44 AM   #25
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One of these for when you have 30 amp and it's not close -

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55501-P...c+cords+30+amp

Then one of these for 120 - 50 ' - 10 ga -

https://www.amazon.com/Lighted-Exten...0%2Bgauge&th=1

If you are any further the line drop will pretty much suck up the voltage so fire up the generator. 30' of 50 amp + 30' of 30 amp + 50' of 15 amp - should handle most everything.

Just incase you didn't get the pressure regulator - it would be in my hook up compartment of on the end of my hose.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40055-B...J6AW825J9HFDBS

Think you are ready to get out on the Road,
Thanks for the links. Can't leave yet, have to wait for another load of amazon deliveries this week
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:32 AM   #26
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I use a 50 to 30 and a 30 to 20/15 adapter. Plug into the house with a 25' extension cord. Hardly and voltage loss as far as I can tell as it is showing 119v on my EMS. Set the amps allowed down to 15 and I can run my small AC (13.5k)no problem. Have to make sure you keep the amp draw low if you use the adapter and an extension cord.
I am running my residential refer off my solar/inverter and leave the breaker from the panel to the inverter/converter/charger off.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:38 AM   #27
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The load sheading system does not actually sense amps, it samples incoming voltage.

If it sees 240 volts, a standard RV 50 amp service, it assumes that it is 50 amp service.

It if sees 120 volts, a standard 30 amp RV service, it assumes 30 amp service. Once it sees it's 120 volts, it defaults to 30 amp service. You can then manually change it to a lower amp rating, 20, 15, 10......

An actuall " amp test " would require increasing the load until the supply breaker tripped, back at the outlet.
I too wondered at "sensing amps."

An RV has many electrical appliances and connections. To supply power to the RV through a 15 amp GCFI outlet is just asking for it to trip. They are designed to protect an individual from getting shocked. An RV, doesn't have a true ground connection like a home with a rod buried in the soil. Somewhere the neutral and ground are tied together. This could cause an imbalance between the hot lead and neutral, so the GCFI is likely to trip.

In a campground pedestal, the 50 amp and 30 amp outlets aren't GCFI protected, only the 15 amp outlet since it is more likely to be used for 'domestic' use, not provide power for an RV.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:59 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
The load sheading system does not actually sense amps, it samples incoming voltage.

If it sees 240 volts, a standard RV 50 amp service, it assumes that it is 50 amp service.

It if sees 120 volts, a standard 30 amp RV service, it assumes 30 amp service. Once it sees it's 120 volts, it defalts to 30 amp service. You can then manually change it to a lower amp rating, 20, 15, 10......

An actuall " amp test " would require increasing the load until the supply breaker tripped, back at the outlet.
you are correct of course.. I was thinking shedding load on the back end and typed amps... sometimes my help is not help, but I still try to help...
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