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Old 07-28-2013, 08:29 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by AnimalCop View Post
F53 Ford Chassis, with tag axle 235-85-16 tires
I'm not aware of any "upgrades" that are available.
However, I do believe that newer versions of the F53 have bigger and better brakes. They now come with GVWRs up to 26,000 pounds, so they HAVE to be better.
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:28 PM   #16
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Hydraulic brakes are NOT supposed to feel spongy. If they do there is either air in the system or water in the system, which turns to steam under hard braking. There are a number of thing you can do which might improve braking.
Have the entire brake system flushed out and new brake fluid installed. Assuming you have 4-wheel disc brakes, the type and make brake pads can make a world of difference. Most OEM pads are designed for good stopping, some aftermarket pads are designed for longevity; the two are mutually exclusive, you can't have both. Pads that have great stopping characteristics wear at a faster rate and create more dust as a result. Harder, longer wearing pads create less dust, don't usually have as much "felt" stopping power, and wear-out rotors faster. Visit a good automotive parts store and ask for the best stopping-power pads. You did not mention brake-fade so I assume that is not an issue. That is addressed with slotted rotors and special pads to match.
Sometimes braking is affected by the flexible hoses from the steel brake lines to each wheel beginning to fail. I've heard about/seen a failed brake flex line going bad inside and locking the brakes, or simply causing them to drag. The blockage in the line can work both ways, it can limit fluid pressure into the caliper cylinder/wheel cylinder.
Flushing the hydraulic system should reveal this, but not always, and the exterior condition of the hoses may appear good.
That are my thoughts on the matter, hope some of them are useful.
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:42 PM   #17
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Since you had rusted brake lines that tells us you had moisture in the system. I suspect the prior owners rarely, if ever flushed out the hydraulic system. I would suspect the wheel cylinder ( if drum brakes ) or the caliper (if disc) will also have been attacked by corrosion, as could be the master cylinder. I would suggest replacing the wheel cylinders, calipers, and master cylinder if you suspect they are the originals.

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Old 07-28-2013, 04:00 PM   #18
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I have air over hydraulic brakes on my 1994 Spartan EC2242 chassis with 22.5" wheels.
The brakes always felt spongy and it had surging brakes after about 50 miles of traveling which turned out to be a sticking right front caliper and a squeeking noise in the left rear which turned out to be wheel bearings. So far the rear pads and one rear rotor have been replaced along with bearings and seals and the sticking caliper has been replaced. The front rotors have been on backorder for over a month now. So far I have spent $2600 on brakes, bearing s and seals including 10 hours of labor at $95 per hour and they're not much better than they were before the repairs. I'm hoping once the front rotors and pads are replaced the braking will improve greatly but I'm not counting on it.
My thoughts in buying this MH was the brakes and running gear would be much stronger pulling my 5000# boat and trailer than the front engine gasser chassis with smaller wheels and brakes; it may be eventually but the expense is getting out of hand.

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Old 07-28-2013, 05:38 PM   #19
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Ray,IN has some good advice. Drain and replace the brake fluid in the system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it attracts moisture (water). The water boils, makes steam, decreasing your braking capability.

Manufacturers recommend replacing brake fluid every several years. It's cheap, and might just solve your braking issue.
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brake, brakes

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