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Old 10-20-2016, 11:21 AM   #1
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Humidity issue

In the past few months we have had water drip from the shelf between the front power shades and the windshield. It has happened three times always after a some rain. I assumed a water leak from the outside. A thorough check of clearance lites, radio and sat antenna front cap to roof seam showed no obvious leaks. Flooding the front roof area with water created no leaks.

I finally removed the back of the overhead cabinets to see what I could of the front roof. All dry as a bone, the area was sprayed with foam insulation when made. All wires and such are thoroughly covered and sealed. Good job Winnebago.

I then carefully examined the metal bracing that holds the decorative horizontal shelf and speakers behind the shades towards the windshield. There are several vertical metal braces above the flat shelf. Looking very closely, i noticed they were dusty (no surprise) and i could see water "tracks" running down the vertical sides of the braces most of the length of the braces. Wiping the metal with a paper towel revealed the dust on it was slightly damp.

Conclusion: because the brace was damp evenly along most of it's vertical length, it was not an outside water leak, but rather humidity condensing on the metal. A bit more thought made this conclusion logical because this area has little if any air circulation. When the problem occurred it was very humid because of rain and we had all windows and exposed vents closed. It was also a very cold rain. Thus with the windshield in close proximity and little if any airflow, condensation occurred.

The metal shelf that holds the decorative panel and speakers in place also serves as a barrier to the water dripping on the dash and soaking the decorative panel. When the water becomes more than the metal shelf can hold or you move the mh , it falls off the shelf onto the dash which is when the problem became obvious.

Solution: while i had the rear of the upper cabinets off, the entire area had good ventilation and dried out quickly. I am going to put grille vent plates in the rear of the overhead compartment. The cabinet doors will also get decorative vent grilles. I think that will solve the problem along with hoods on all exhaust vents and awnings on a few windows so we can have the vents on and get airflow thru the unit during inclement wx. I also use the heat pump as much as possible to help dry the interior air. A small fan in the area would also be a possibility, but I will try the passive approach first. Putting insulation between the outside skin and the metal bracing would probably reduce the problem, but would by itself not solve it.

I know this was a long post but it may help someone who has a "mystery leak" in the front of their mh. It also reinforces the importance of humidity control in a rv.
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Old 10-20-2016, 01:11 PM   #2
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Anytime the temp drops and the furnace is being used I run a dehumidifier. Before we bought it we had condensation so bad in the bedroom closets that it ran down the wall and soaked everything on the floor before we caught it. Condensation has also leaked from above the front cabinets dripping on to the dash. I run the dehumidifier in the living room at night and move it into the bedroom during the day it has eliminated any water problems. I run a vent fan while taking a shower and that helps. I have red that you exhale a quart of water every night while sleeping. All that moister will condense on the exterior walls and the windows unless you have therm a pain windows but it will go to the exterior walls.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:26 PM   #3
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What size dehumidifier do you use? The ones I have seen are rated in pints/24 hours. E.g., 30 pints, 50 pints, 70 pints, etc.

How do you drain it? Manually empty the tank? Run a discharge hose to someplace?
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:50 AM   #4
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I went to Sears and bought the smallest one they had 30 pint. I use the built in tank it has an auto shut off so it won't overflow. That way I can move it around to remove moisture. I also bought the extended warranty being we full time and move around and it gets jostled around when were underway.
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:55 AM   #5
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Thank you!
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Old 10-22-2016, 02:26 PM   #6
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Even though it might be cold and you need to have your heat on, it's best to still crack your ceiling vents about 1/2". The heat loss will be minimum but the drop in humidity will be noticeable.
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Old 10-22-2016, 05:50 PM   #7
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I would rather run the dehumidifier to remove humidity than let heat that I payed for escape through a vent. I do turn on the exhaust fan on when taking a shower and then use a squeegee on the shower walls and floor to remove most of the water. That helps to keep the humidity down.
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Old 10-24-2016, 02:38 AM   #8
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Here is a quick and easy fix, keep a vent open at all times along with a window cracked. Yes it may sound stupid but it keeps the humidity down due to air flow.
I keep the 1/2 bath vent partially opened and the kitchen window cracked.
Works for me, no drips, no runs , no errors.
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Old 11-21-2016, 06:30 PM   #9
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I use a 70 pint set on auto 40% humidity, continuous drain hose into engine compartment, dripping directly to the ground. Ceiling vents cracked 1/4 inch most cabinets that back up to outside walls are left open. With small heater set at 50 the interior has no moisture problems all winter (Aug-Jan). She's old and the first winter I had it I was bailing gallons of water per day, now it's minimal. No odor or mildew, remains.
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