HVAC power issues on shore power/not with generator

[Bev_n_Boose]

Could use some help, please. We have a 2014 4369. Having issue with HVAC. Cold 42 this morning in WY, turned heat on and no response/no error message. Checked post where plugged into shore power; looked ok.
Checked fuses. Tried again and got E7 error message on the thermostat control panel, but central monitoring panel says we are getting 50 amps to coach. Electric stove also will not turn on but everything else seems ok. We moved south, now in CO. Stopped on the way down, turned on generator and everything works. At site, again plugged into shore and same issue when trying AC. E7 message on zones 1 & 2. Zone 3 running fine. Getting 50 amps power. Flipped all fuses in mid bath. Anything else we can do? Automatic Transfer Switch was not tripped.

[jacwjames]

Sounds like a transfer switch problem on the shore side but when generator is running you've got power since it gives it priority.

[Bev_n_Boose]

Originally Posted by jacwjames

Sounds like a transfer switch problem on the shore side but when generator is running you've got power since it gives it priority.

Thanks, jacwjames. We show 50 amps coming in to coach, but Line 1 shows
L1 2volts/ 0 amps; L2 118volts/15 amps. Will talk to the Newmar tech tomorrow and see if they can help.

[Lt Dan]

First off, Welcome to IRV2!

You definitely have a power problem on one leg. It could be the transfer switch as previously noted or a defective shore power cord. If you have a power reel for your shore cord, those are known to lose contact with the rotary brushes.

[Sky_Boss]

Check the breaker for the block heater.

(OK...EDIT...I see you may have flipped all the breakers in the bathroom but double check it.)

Did you try to connect to another power post?

[Bev_n_Boose]

Originally Posted by Lt Dan

First off, Welcome to IRV2!

You definitely have a power problem on one leg. It could be the transfer switch as previously noted or a defective shore power cord. If you have a power reel for your shore cord, those are known to lose contact with the rotary brushes.

Thank you, Lt Dan. Hope to have answers soon. We removed our power reel 18 months ago due to similar, but different issues. Just praying we can get an appointment.

[Bev_n_Boose]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

Check the breaker for the block heater.

(OK...EDIT...I see you may have flipped all the breakers in the bathroom but double check it.)

Did you try to connect to another power post?

Okay, I went back and reflipped the breakers. No luck. We have connected to 50 amp power in two locations.



Thanks for your suggestions, Sky Boss.

[36PFT]

Have you checked all the wire connections inside the transfer switch? They do become loose from time to time. While you are in there, check all voltage. Stan

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by 36PFT

Have you checked all the wire connections inside the transfer switch? They do become loose from time to time. While you are in there, check all voltage. Stan

That is the next step. Also if you have a separate surge protector:

1. If it is an external device isolate it and plug in without the device.

2. If it is internal you will also want to check the wiring "under the cover". I once had one where one screw holding a wire was loose. While a loose connection has other symptoms that can be strange and/or intermittent, it is worth the look see. Actually, I make that an annual check.

OH...also...

I'm not sure what years were most affected but some power cord reels have had an issue with the contacts going bad. You may need to find a way to check voltage and/or continuity to the reel and then coming out of the reel. Of course, start by validating those things at the power post first and work back towards any surge protector that might be before the ATS, power into the ATS then out of the ATS.

Time to go "Sherlock Holmes".

[Bev_n_Boose]

Thanks for the suggestion. Will check. We do have an appt for service on Monday if we can't figure it out prior. We will be heading south in a few weeks and will need all 3 ACs.

[Domo]

When you say checked fuses and flipped breakers do you actually mean;
1. you used a meter to verify the fuses where good, removed them from their sockets and reinserted them? (that will mean the fuse link is good AND you've help clean/break any corrosions that might be on the fuse/socket contacts)
2. You FORCEFULLY pushed the breaker switch into the OFF position and then pushed it all the way to ON and it remained in the ON position and the "tab" is in alignment with all the other breakers.

I only ask, because many folks "look" for a blown fuse thinking there will always be a blackened spot that can be seen, or that the fuse-link will be noticeably broken.

Also, many folks simply push a breaker to the "on" position (or gently push it off and then on) and walk away - which is NOT the proper way to reset a tripped breaker.

I'm hoping you might still have a simple problem that may have been overlooked when frustrated and moving too fast...

[Rkesselus]

Not sure on your system but some systems require 12 to thermostates etc. Have you checked the 12 v. side of things. Shore vs Gen.

[KanzKran]

Originally Posted by Domo

Also, many folks simply push a breaker to the "on" position (or gently push it off and then on) and walk away - which is NOT the proper way to reset a tripped breaker.

That's DW's sister. I don't know how many hours I've spent on the phone in the last 30 years talking her through resetting them. It just doesn't compute I guess.

[Bev_n_Boose]

Originally Posted by Rkesselus

Not sure on your system but some systems require 12 to thermostates etc. Have you checked the 12 v. side of things. Shore vs Gen.

While talking with Neumar, we disconnected and reset the thermostats. They were fine. Reset did not make a difference. Thanks