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Old 03-15-2017, 01:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by bruce91 View Post
My driver side slide would drift from the closed position about 1" or 2". I did the above bleed for the system and it seemed to work then it drifted again. A call to my slide manifacture (equalizer) for more information and was told that sometimes the procedure needs to be done several times. The procedure when done as the instructions say will take a bit of time to do it right.

Don't think it should matter if it is moving from the closed or out position, it is the hydraulic pressure that keeps it put. Air in the system will cause it not to hold.

I also had conflicting information on the correct amount of transmissin fluid that should be in the tank. The fill level sticker on the tank was approximately 2/3 when another said 1" below the top. Equalizer confirmed the 1" below top to be correct.

My slide has not moved from it's intended position since.
Wouldn't air in the system cause problems on all the hydraulic slides, and in both the in and the out direction? Seems a specific direction (in or out) on just one specific slide would be caused by something in that slide's hydraulic components, not something common to all the slides.
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Old 03-15-2017, 02:29 PM   #16
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I had the same problem with another hydraulic company and it turned out the solenoid valve has a rings on it rubber O-rings and all I had to do was replace the $0.05 or rings on the valve that was leaking and it cured the problem
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:59 PM   #17
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Found the HWH pump/solenoids and tank where Randy indicated. The ATF in the reservoir is below the dip stick, but the slides are all out.

This from the HWH website Q&A:

Should my jacks and rooms be retracted to check fluid level?
The leveling jacks should be fully retracted to check the fluid level. There are different types of slide-out mechanisms and some should be retracted and some should be extended. It is ok to check the level with all slide-outs retracted but do not over fill the tank if you are not sure of the correct slide-out position to check fluid level. Refer to your HWH Operator's Manual or contact HWH for specific information.

I did not get a HWH manual with this coach and calling HWH has always been problematic for quick answers. Anyone know the correct position of the slide when checking the fluid?
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:34 PM   #18
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Found the HWH pump/solenoids and tank where Randy indicated. The ATF in the reservoir is below the dip stick, but the slides are all out.

This from the HWH website Q&A:

Should my jacks and rooms be retracted to check fluid level?
The leveling jacks should be fully retracted to check the fluid level. There are different types of slide-out mechanisms and some should be retracted and some should be extended. It is ok to check the level with all slide-outs retracted but do not over fill the tank if you are not sure of the correct slide-out position to check fluid level. Refer to your HWH Operator's Manual or contact HWH for specific information.

I did not get a HWH manual with this coach and calling HWH has always been problematic for quick answers. Anyone know the correct position of the slide when checking the fluid?
Bought my coach 3-1/2 years ago from MHSRV, so not the one you looked at. This is a quote from my owner's manual on the slide out fluid level for HWH. "Check fluid level in reservoir. Maintain fluid within 1⁄2" from top of reservoir when slide-outs are retracted."
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:57 AM   #19
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Bought my coach 3-1/2 years ago from MHSRV, so not the one you looked at. This is a quote from my owner's manual on the slide out fluid level for HWH. "Check fluid level in reservoir. Maintain fluid within 1⁄2" from top of reservoir when slide-outs are retracted."
Well, would have been something if it had been the same one.

And thanks for checking your manual for me. Slides in it is.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:27 AM   #20
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stuart, your jacks have to be up in order to check the fluid level. fluid level is not very critical for proper operation. the tank will normally have about 1 quart extra capacity.
there is a dipstick in the cap to help with checking. anywhere within an inch of the top is good. to avoid spills, its best to not overfill. ive made a mess more than once because of that.
the rooms are another matter. if you have an A room, one having the mechanisms below the floor, the room will have to be retracted. this is what your coach has.
if you have a B room, one having the mechanisms above the floor. the room must be extended. thats because the cylinder retracts to extend the room.
its important to identify the type of mechanism you have.
B rooms include all the uso chain drive rooms, lateral arm rooms, and the x arm rooms.
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Old 03-24-2017, 10:42 AM   #21
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Just a followup. Fully extending the slide in question multiple times a day has improved the creep from 6" in 8 hours to 1/2" in the same time period. The coach was inactive for months before I bought it in February and this, with constant use, may completely correct itself. Over driving the pump after extension also seems to be contributing to the improvement.

After looking into that filthy mess of solenoids around the hydraulic pump, I will avoid having to replace that SL-3 extension solenoid until the bitter end. At least with all your help, I have clarity as to the problem and the solution if I ultimately have to take action.
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Old 03-24-2017, 01:52 PM   #22
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If you do have to ultimately replace that solenoid take it out and just replace the O-rings on it first those solenoids are not cheap and most likely it is just a leaky o-ring
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:42 PM   #23
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If you do have to ultimately replace that solenoid take it out and just replace the O-rings on it first those solenoids are not cheap and most likely it is just a leaky o-ring
Good tip. I'll do that first. Thanks
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