HWH jack DIY repair

[TOM GUY]

These nice people repaired mine for less than $250.

P&H HYDRAULIC SERVICE
6530 TRIXY ST
JACKSONVILLE, FL 32219

Tom

[54chevy]

Originally Posted by TOM GUY

These nice people repaired mine for less than $250.

P&H HYDRAULIC SERVICE
6530 TRIXY ST
JACKSONVILLE, FL 32219

Tom

Tom, when did they do the rebuild for you and what model jack was it? I have had mine at a local shop for months and he says he can't get the parts needed for the rebuild. He already has it open and apart.
Cannon

[TOM GUY]

I can give you the model (AP29964) and serial number (6566), this might help. The picture shows the rod diameter. (2.378)

The people are good to talk to, so you could give them call. Just call P&H Hydraulics.

I am having trouble figuring out how to get my computer to relinquish my photos. Got a ton of them but can't get them into a suitable place.

This rebuild was in June of last year.

Tom

[cbrTodd]

Thanks to Lt. Dan for assisting with getting this info posted!

For anyone as foolish as me who would try to do this repair themselves, I figured I would leave a few tips since I just finished repairing a set of 4 for a friend. The fronts were the AP7164 6k lb and the rear were the AP7001 9k units.

First of all, you DO NOT have to cut the cylinders to get them apart. The round metal snap ring that retains the seals were rusted badly on a couple of these. I had to measure to the ring height, drill a couple small holes, and use a punch to push the ring in to release it. If things aren't too rusty, you may be able to press down on the metal retaining sleeve beneath this snap ring and get it to come out easier (I used pieces of wood from a paint stir stick to do this).

Once the snap ring was out, I hooked up the porta power hydraulic pump to the cylinder inlet, restrained the cylinder in the arbor press, and used hydraulic pressure to push the seals out. At that point, all that's holding the cylinder in is the internal snap ring behind the pipe thread boss. Use a screwdriver to dislodge it downwards toward the cylinder end and the use a pick type tool along the side of the cylinder to pull it out the bottom. Once it's out, the rod can come out of the cylinder.

As others have mentioned, the plastic sleeve is the problem why things get tight. Even with the rust in the bore removed with a brake hone, it was still far too tight. I chucked it into an expanding mandrel in a drill and sanded it down on the outside until it was just a tight slip fit into the bore. From there it was just clean up and reassembly.

A couple other tips: use masking tape on the rod any time you are working next to it to avoid scratching it. Multiple wraps if needed. And the rods are fairly soft stainless, so they won't rust or flake off chrome, but you do need to work hard to prevent scratches. And don't try to use the rod to force out the inner retaining rings, it won't work and it will damage the internal snap ring and whatever collet jumps over it. But it might still be salvageable. Ask me how I know... The retaining rings are 'RSR' rings, but HWH appears to have gone out of their way to choose non standard size parts. The wipers are similar - standard diameters but thinner than anything I could find. Fortunately I could reuse the ones I had.

Good luck to anyone who might try this. It's not impossible but it does take some patience. I was able to repair 4 jacks with only $45 in parts for a couple RSR rings, so with some sweat equity it can be worth it.

[azpete]

folks like ltdan are a godsend to this forum. he
knows a lot about hwh product, and he doesnt steer you wrong.
posting has a lot of disinformation. i dont know where you got your information but hwh can rebuild your cylinder. the only cylinders that hwh doesnt rebuild is most of their sync cylinders. hwh is just as willing to repair your cylinder as to sell you a new one,
actually, its easier for them to rebuild yours.
they have to interrupt their current production to build a cylinder that isnt being used anymore on new coaches.
i use their reman service all the time, for cylinders, whole jacks, hydraulic solenoids, touch pads and control boxes. their prices are fair, but it does take time to get it done.
simply send an email to service@hwh.com
include name, address, phone, year and brand of coach, and vin number.
then explain what you want, tell them the AP model number and serial number of your cylinder, or part.
they will contact you with a RGA number. this is the tracking number. that will take somecdays. be patirnt. many others are doing just what you are doing, and the phones are very busy.
dont send it without a RGA number. it will get lost.
there are local shops that can rebuild the cylinders, and the $200 dollar price is a fair price. many on these forums have had it done.
ask around, there should be someone near you. i cant recommend a place because i work for hwh.
hwh does not sell seal kits, but they are readily available from hydraulic shops and the internet. the top of the cylinder does not have to be cut off. it can be done that way, but not necessary.
i dont rebuild them myself., because of the time element, and im just lazy i guess.
i let hwh do it. i get a one year warranty also.
there are reman cylinders available for your need.
the remans runs about 350 to 650, or more, depending on the model number and size.
if you need help, please feel free to call me at 602 549 3638. maybe i can help.
i work mon thru sat and am on pacific time. regular hours.
if i dont answer, please leave a message. i will call back.
paul maddox
i work full time for hwh corp. i do not solicit part sales on this forum. i do not do service work anymore,