Community Forums

robbstein · 03-31-2009, 06:57 AM

Do you hear the solenoids when you try to level - and the pump motor? If you hear the solenoids activate but no pump motor then you probably have a failed pump. I just went through that with my HWH system. Took awhile to diagnose, but the pump was ordered and I replaced it myself. Took about an hour and a half. Check to make sure you have voltage at the pump motor when activated. That will be an excellent clue of a pump motor failure.

GaryKD · 03-31-2009, 07:43 AM

The current status is I am waiting for a call back from HWH. Following the diagnostic info from HWH all the lights on the control board respond the way they should. It is just that nothing happens. Also, the fluid reservoir is at the proper level.

007,
I checked all wires coming from the control box, pump, pump relay and valves. All wires are tightly connected/plugged.

Rob,
There is no activity/sounds when a jack a extend button is pressed. I'll go see about voltage at the pump relay/motor, while I wait for the call from HWH.

GaryKD · 03-31-2009, 08:55 AM

There is a module fastened to the pump motor. There are 13 VDC across the relay points when all is off. There remains 13 VDC across the relay points when a jack extension button is pressed. My assumption is the VDC should go to zero when an extension button is pressed.

All the components show no corrosion or deterioration. All connections are tight and without corrosion. Actually everything looks very clean and neat.

Still waiting for HWH call.

GaryKD · 03-31-2009, 01:17 PM

The current saga is over. The jacks are now working. I got a call back from HWH. The tech asked me a few questions, which I had the answers to. He told me to replace fuse 8. I reminded him that I had already checked the fuse with a meter. And the diagnostic light pattern didn't call for that fix. He said to replace fuse 8. I did so and the jacks started working!

I was bent over under the hood and when the pump started is scared me half to death.

One of the questions I was asked was, was the fuse the original fuse. The answer was yes. There was no further explanation about the fuse. The tech mentioned that it was either the fuse or the relay. The fuse was cheaper so we tried it first. I have no idea why the original fuse no longer works. I rechecked it with a meter and it is as good as new.

Thanks to all who replied. I really appreciate the responses.

tmitchell · 03-31-2009, 05:05 PM

Congratulations on your fix. Where is fuse 8 located at?
Tom

Route 66 · 03-31-2009, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryKD

TI have no idea why the original fuse no longer works. I rechecked it with a meter and it is as good as new.

Highly irregular.

GaryKD · 03-31-2009, 06:12 PM

Hi Tom,
Fuse 8 is in the second fuse row from the top of the control board. It is the second fuse in from the right side of the board. The purpose of the fuse is to allow power to the pump relay. The documentation provided in Quick Tips (this Newmar Forum) and EngineerMike allowed me to do quite a bit of elimination before HWH called me back.

This is an example of knowledge versus skill. I have knowledge, the HWH tech has skill. I had eliminated the fuse during my testing. Based on experience he knew what was wrong.

The fuse is on my workbench. I may frame it.

EngineerMike · 03-31-2009, 11:46 PM

A fuse has a connection @ each side. My guess is if you replace the original fuse it will work, and the problem was insufficient contact in the fuse holder (dirt, corrosion, whatever) at one side. Good diagnostic piece of knowledge- if all looks OK and reads out OK, but isn't OK, pull the applicable fuse(s) & check the connections. I've had ferrule type fuses that read good but are not, but prior to this wouldn't have thought of pulling a blade (GM) type fuse as a further check. Learnt something new here today.

Chickadee · 04-01-2009, 06:04 AM

So,...I'm confused (as usual). Does this mean that "testing" blade fuses w. tester does NOT confirm they are viable?? When Gary tested the fuses, all, including fuse #8, tested O.K., yet...it was fuse #8 that was the problem.....cheeeez....does this apply for ALL blade fuses throughout our coaches????? Steve

"007" · 04-01-2009, 06:28 AM

The fuse can check out OK but what the blades plug into, the spring clips, with wires attached could be whats keeping the circuit open. Constant movement of fuse in clips will clean dirt, corrosion for better conection.
Hopefully the wires attached to clip are good connections also.
If other fuses in box may want to check them also but you can say if its not broke why fix it.

We all need to remember FUSE #8

Route 66 · 04-01-2009, 06:40 AM

Gary,

Are you game for reinstalling the original fuse to see if it is a corrosion, etc. issue?

We used to reseat a lot of circuit packs in #1ESS, the first electronic telephone switcher.

"007" · 04-01-2009, 06:48 AM

We also would run a eraser up and down the contacts on the boards too.

Electronic business machines that is.

I have placed in annuls of Quick Tips so we'll not forget.

Chickadee · 04-01-2009, 07:00 AM

007:

So.....IF such a problem IS that the "spring clips" keep the circuit open, wouldn't the the fuse tester show no continuity??.....cause if that isn't the case, then testing fuses is a futile excercise. eh?