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Old 05-24-2016, 06:08 PM   #29
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We have a 1999 vintage HWH system and up until last fall always fought with 2 jacks (for the last 7 years with the long 2X4) which were slow to not returning most of the time without persuasion. Cleaning/Lubing/Exercising....etc was never reliable but did help sometimes. Had them replaced ($500 each a pop) and now they are the first ones stored with the others close behind. All 4 are up in about 2-3 minutes honestly. On a side note we are still using all the original "old style" return springs.

On our coach I believe they simply wore out with dirt packed up in the seals OR previous owner bent them some how because the front passenger jack would also leak if extended more than 1/2 way but in any case they are no longer an issue.

If sitting for more than a week or in dusty weather I will now dry wipe off the exposed rods before retracting just to feel better as I have to pull out the board anyway. Once you have a jack pad glued/stuck in clay/dirt/frozen down/punched 6" in the ground you will develop a desire to take the time to throw a board under the pad. Experience speaking here.
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:08 PM   #30
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I had a very similar problem.. after rushing around reading stuff, and I did try and raise via the nut..in the end I forget.. maybe retracted then reset them. There is a something you can do pressing certain buttons at the same time. I do nit have the manual with me but the combo will release the demon,,,
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:35 PM   #31
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So I posted same problem on Tiffin forum. I am a female so what is the ram bottom and ram housing. So I can try to clean.
TKS!
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:12 PM   #32
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HWH Levelors not retracting

China3 - When you put your jacks down the "ram" extends to the ground, it is the silver thing. When the jacks are down spray (all 4) with WD-40 then take a clean cloth and wipe the ram. Your jacks should retract in about 2 minutes. Let the retract cycle run its full cycle, it will take about 5 minutes before the "Travel" light comes on.
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Old 05-26-2016, 08:02 PM   #33
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Update ...

First, I want to thank everyone for advice. (can't believe how many have posted on this question).
I put down all 4 rams and sprayed them with WD40, then lightly wiped them. I sprayed up into the seal, and tried to wipe around those with a clean cloth. When I pressed 'Store', I got down and used a 2x4 to raise the recalcitrant rams. with encouragement, all went up ok, so I don't think anything is bent. We haven't taken it anywhere yet (gotta get away soon!). I think I'll try WD40 a couple times. I also have a little silicone spray lubricant I'll try after that. Hopefully using them more will loosen them up.
I think I created the heat in the cylinders by repetitively hitting 'store.' Since they did function (with encouragement), I don't think there was any permanent damage.
It's encouraging to know that using a 2x4 is (almost) normal -- or at least not unusual. If I have it in for other work, I may have the springs looked at.
Based on comments, I'll find the manual again and look up how to check the fluid level, too.
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:49 AM   #34
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arboldt, whenever you have to use anything to help a jack retract, it either needs new springs, or the cylinder rebuilt. i work for hwh, and see this all the time. whenever i go to a fmca rally, i see folks with 2x4s all the time. they are hoping the problem will not get worse, and dont want to do the repair, but thats the only fix that works.
i would contact hwh, and get a return number to send in those reluctant cylinders to be rebuilt. if you can get them up using a 2x4, they probably need seals,so it wont be very expensive. i would also replace the springs. they are only 24 to 36 dollars a set, so its not too much more.
please feel free to cal me at 602-549-3638, maybe i can help.
i do not solicit part sales or service work on this forum
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azpete View Post
arboldt, whenever you have to use anything to help a jack retract, it either needs new springs, or the cylinder rebuilt. i work for hwh, and see this all the time. whenever i go to a fmca rally, i see folks with 2x4s all the time. they are hoping the problem will not get worse, and dont want to do the repair, but thats the only fix that works.
i would contact hwh, and get a return number to send in those reluctant cylinders to be rebuilt. if you can get them up using a 2x4, they probably need seals,so it wont be very expensive. i would also replace the springs. they are only 24 to 36 dollars a set, so its not too much more.
please feel free to cal me at 602-549-3638, maybe i can help.
i do not solicit part sales or service work on this forum
i do diagnostics only

I think I remember reading that HWH recommends WD-40 for cleaning and lubrication of the rams. Is that correct? Also is ATF acceptable to use as fluid? I don't think the statement in another post that ATF and Hyd fluid are the same thing other than the red dye is correct. But might it be an acceptable substitute?


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Old 05-27-2016, 03:04 PM   #36
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If you go to hwhcorp.com, click on the FAQ page, number 42, it states that they recommend that you use their fluid in the system, but any dexron type transmission fluid can be used.

I worked on hydraulic powered weapon systems for years in the Navy and was taught and trained that you should always use the same fluid in the system to lube and clean the seals in the system. Prevents possible damage to the seals by incompatible fluids.
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Old 05-28-2016, 01:35 AM   #37
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I have been using Mobile 1 synthetic ATF in my 210 HWH levelling system tank for more than 12 yr. Occaisionally I have a right rear jack that is very slow to retract to the fully restored position, then I use my 8ft. 2x4 to give it an extra boost. My coach is 16yr.old.
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:21 AM   #38
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harley, hwh fluid is dexron without the dye.
dexron is hydraulic fluid, but not all hydraulic fluids are dexron.
kind of like all thumbs are fingers but not all fingers are thumbs.
hydrostatic fluid is compatible with dexron but dexron is much cheaper
hwh does recommend cleaning with wd40 or atf. either works. just dont use dry silicone.
it bhas a glue like substance that makes it stick to the surface. it will build up around the wiper seal, and attract some abrasive materials. if this happens, use wd40 to soften the accumulation and clean it off with a qtip.
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