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Old 05-07-2023, 09:18 PM   #1
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Hwh low battery light

Ok so I don't hear the pump coming on. I get the battery light coming on. I have cleaned the battery connections. and plan on cleaning all the terminals at the resivoir It is in a very hard to get to spot for sure. Batteries seem to e ok. I even put the big charger on them as well. Nothing seems to affect it so far. where should I start. It won't dump or store either.
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Old 05-07-2023, 09:51 PM   #2
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My 1999 HWH system (310) had a 40 amp inline fuse to power the control box and panel .
Mine was close to the motor and the " waterproof " inline fuse holder , wasn't .

Poor connection due to water intrusion , the control panel ( no low battery light) would come on but nothing would work .

Is you leveling system a series 310. or do you know the series and have the users manual ?
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Old 05-07-2023, 09:54 PM   #3
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In addition to the fuse noted, check the master solenoid to see if it's passing power. That's a common failure when the contacts get burned or corroded. Also, you should have the engine running or plugged into shore power because the HWH pump is a power hog.
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Old 05-08-2023, 09:27 PM   #4
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An HWH leveling system with room extension requires power be passed through 2 solenoids to power the motor. No slide rooms; then there is only one solenoid.
reference:
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Old 05-10-2023, 11:13 AM   #5
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Ok so I checked every connection I could get too. The pump and resivoir is in a very inaccesable spot. 40 amp fuse looks good. Not sure how to check power going to it. It may be simply the batteries. I have charged them but to no use. Still get the light no power at all to motor. I was gonna check em with the bus running, but now I have a more serious problem in that it won't start. That will be my next project. It has always needed to prime before cranking and hard to get it going. But now it just cranks and my suspicion is no fuel. It is a cat 3126 hopefully I have a diesel mechanic coming to the rescue. fuel filter is full, prime works but this one has a solenoid that allows or disallows fuel to the injectors. Thanks so much for the input will post with good results soon . I hope.
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Old 05-10-2023, 11:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
My 1999 HWH system (310) had a 40 amp inline fuse to power the control box and panel .
Mine was close to the motor and the " waterproof " inline fuse holder , wasn't .

Poor connection due to water intrusion , the control panel ( no low battery light) would come on but nothing would work .

Is you leveling system a series 310. or do you know the series and have the users manual ?
Dialectric (bulb) grease is your friend!

You can buy a 6oz tube at most auto stores and it is amazing for any electrical connections to keep moisture and corrosion out
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Old 05-10-2023, 08:43 PM   #7
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Dialectric (bulb) grease is your friend!

You can buy a 6oz tube at most auto stores and it is amazing for any electrical connections to keep moisture and corrosion out
Thanks for the info ; after replacing the inline fuse with a 40 amp self resetting circuit breaker , as a temporary repair ; I extended the power wire and re-located the circuit breaker into a water proof area (where Newmar put their aux ignition relay and C/Bs ) to avoid further issues .

After 33 years at a Chrysler dealership dealing with 12 volt electrical , I buy the water proof di-electric grease in the biggest tube available.

Here's a photo of the C/B install prior to relocation , I was 100% certain that tape wasn't the long term answer for this repair.

Red box. this was the location of the inline fuse holder that failed .
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Old 05-11-2023, 10:26 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Thanks for the info ; after replacing the inline fuse with a 40 amp self resetting circuit breaker , as a temporary repair ; I extended the power wire and re-located the circuit breaker into a water proof area (where Newmar put their aux ignition relay and C/Bs ) to avoid further issues .

After 33 years at a Chrysler dealership dealing with 12 volt electrical , I buy the water proof di-electric grease in the biggest tube available.

Here's a photo of the C/B install prior to relocation , I was 100% certain that tape wasn't the long term answer for this repair.

Red box. this was the location of the inline fuse holder that failed .
Oh my god that is horrible, would be better without the tape! just a moisture holder for sure

I have a circuit breaker fuse the same in my engine bay, I think I will hit it with a little battery protectant and call it good, mine isn't wrapped in tape but it is completely exposed...

I wired up a second battery in my 96 suburban using welding wire, 00 and double 4ga grounds, used the dialectric inside the lugs before crimping and then heat shrinked over the top, I expect it to last a LOOONG time
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Old 05-12-2023, 11:52 AM   #9
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If I could see my pump that well I think I could figure it out. As big as a mh is you would think they could put stuff where you could get to it. My pump is in the front and almost impossible to get to from below and just about as bad from above.
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Old 05-12-2023, 11:55 AM   #10
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If I could see my pump that well I think I could figure it out. As big as a mh is you would think they could put stuff where you could get to it. My pump is in the front and almost impossible to get to from below and just about as bad from above.
It's tricky for sure, for instance with the doghouse removed for my V10 I can get to the top/side of the engine very easily, the front more difficult (from inside)

From outside there's not a great way to access most of the motor

To contrast, my v8 is a lot easier to get into (in my expedition) but the rear of the top is under the firewall shelf and hard as hell to get to...always gonna be difficulties with any vehicle, it's just learning and figuring out the best way to get to something. Many times I have done something only to find out that removing something else with just a few screws would have made my life so much easier...live n learn i guess
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Old 05-12-2023, 06:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IcePyro View Post
Dialectric (bulb) grease is your friend!

You can buy a 6oz tube at most auto stores and it is amazing for any electrical connections to keep moisture and corrosion out
And an insulator/non-conductive.
The better product to use is NO-Ox-ID https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-c...lubricant.html
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Old 10-25-2023, 07:02 PM   #12
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Ok so I found a wire that had been left off the battery when they were replaced. I have had another issue since then. I was getting ready to leave our campground and got distracted. I started the engine before lowering the jacks. Ok so now I was able to open the valves and manually raise the jacks, but when I got home to lower them, every light on the HWH panel was lit up and would do nothing. So I finally undid all my battery connections and wah la all was fine. So I guess it rebooted or whatever when I did that. Anyway its working now.
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