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Old 11-08-2018, 10:02 PM   #1
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Hydraulic Hose leak

Thought I had a bad fitting for my levelers. Not so. Just after the fitting the hose takes a 90 degree turn. Over the miles that turn has rubbed against the gen. cover and caused it to leak fluid. Can't be fixed while still attached to the MH. So I need to disconnect both ends, pull the hose all the way out and replace with a new one?? Anybody done this?? The hose goes into the frame an is not visable until it comes out at the jack.
Thanks for any imput
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:43 PM   #2
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The best repair would be to remove the damaged hose and take it to a shop that can fabricate hydraulic hoses. Second best would be to just replace the damaged section and have a shop join the old hose with the new end. If the hose is old, it's best to replace the complete hose.
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Old 11-09-2018, 02:10 AM   #3
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I have not done this, but are you worried about being able to get the new hose through the frame? If so, I would buy some type of cheap hose, string, or rope, connect it/tape it to the end of your damaged hose and pull it through the frame. Once you get the new hydraulic hose, follow the same process.

Good luck!
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:16 AM   #4
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A mobile hydraulic service may be able to repair it in place.

If you can figure out the length you could have a new hose made, put a coupler on and connect to the existing hose & pull it through.
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:30 AM   #5
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Also, many owners will just abandon the old hose in place and run a new hose along the frame where ever it will fit.
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Old 11-09-2018, 08:32 AM   #6
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if you have the old hose repaired, ask about the warranty. it has been my experience that repaired hose, where just the end is replaced, fails about 80 percent of the time, if you just replace the fitting, and dont examine the hose.

look at the cut end of the hose, and see if the interior linings of the hose are oil soaked.
when you cut the old fitting off, if the hose has no oil in lining , the end of the hose will be light in color. if its oil soaked, the end will be dark. it will have to be cut back until the light color is showing.
i have repaired hundreds of hoses, and i can tell you from experience, its cheaper in the long run to replace the hose. for both the repair center, and the owner.

i have a hwh certified swaging tool, and make up new hoses, but i wont repair an old hose. its just not worth going back and doing the job twice. and free the second time, because the warranty is going to be on the labor of the repair, not the parts.
the only warrantied part is the brand new fitting, not the hose, but can you charge for a hose, and the cost of replacing the entire hose the second time?
it turns into a cam of worms, so i dont recommend doing the repair.
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Old 11-09-2018, 08:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Also, many owners will just abandon the old hose in place and run a new hose along the frame where ever it will fit.
This is an option.

ALSO - repairing the existing hose if able.. Cut the hose where its damaged, then install new connectors on the cut ends.
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:14 AM   #8
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I was told by at least 6 shops that you can not repair the hose in place, it has to be taken out and then they can fix it. About $130 for a new hose and the cost of fittings. What I need to know is if I attach the new hose to the old and start pulling it thru the bay between the frame rails ( there is a sheet of metal on the bottom so you can't see whats in there) do you think I will encounter any obstructions to stop the hose from goin all the way thru?
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old golfer guy View Post
I was told by at least 6 shops that you can not repair the hose in place, it has to be taken out and then they can fix it. About $130 for a new hose and the cost of fittings. What I need to know is if I attach the new hose to the old and start pulling it thru the bay between the frame rails ( there is a sheet of metal on the bottom so you can't see whats in there) do you think I will encounter any obstructions to stop the hose from goin all the way thru?
A hydraulic hose has fittings at the end that are larger than the hose alone. I'd be very surprised that a new hose could be snaked through hidden places that don't contain clamps, zip ties, etc. that would impose easy replacement. You could try releasing both ends of the bad hose and just tugging it a bit to see if you feel any resistance to sliding it out, but I'd guess it isn't just loose in the path in which it was installed. If might be easier to just find a new route for the line if you can't expose the old path.
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:26 AM   #10
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Tie a nylon cord to the old hose and pull the old hose out, if you can. You can then use the nylon cord to pull the new hose in, maybe.. Give it a try.. Maybe even attempt to pull the old hose back in just to see if you can do it. If not, make sure to order your new hose long enough so it can get routed.

Depending on the hose manufacture / hose type, I've used these fitting on hydraulic, fuel, oil, etc hoses with no need to remove the hose to install the fitting.


https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ages/aq491.php


The hydraulic pressure is pretty high, but I might even try a barb fitting to connect the two ends together. if I did this, I'd probably use the fuel injection style hose clamps rather than the worm screw style.
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:28 AM   #11
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Hydraulic Hose leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by old golfer guy View Post
I was told by at least 6 shops that you can not repair the hose in place, it has to be taken out and then they can fix it. About $130 for a new hose and the cost of fittings. What I need to know is if I attach the new hose to the old and start pulling it thru the bay between the frame rails ( there is a sheet of metal on the bottom so you can't see whats in there) do you think I will encounter any obstructions to stop the hose from goin all the way thru?

I had same problem when I had a badly rusted fitting that worried me. After much research I found out that no shop or supplier will support in place repairs or reusing a hose. I ended up doing the work myself. Was not hard once I had the correct tools and in the end I am sure it was cheaper and better than trying to route a new hose.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f25/ruste...ng-394599.html
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:34 AM   #12
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I would deal directly with a hose fabrication company. Royal Brass & Hose & Pirtek are 2 excellent resources, I'm sure there are others. Do the pull out with an attached nylon or automotive wire of suitable size. If replacing in the frame isn't an option ziptie to the frame. It'll be fine.
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:52 AM   #13
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I replaced all of my leveler hoses last year, NAPA fabricated new hoses an supplied all fittings. My old hoses were not leaking but had blisters in several places. I had to cut some of the hoses which were above the frame that I could not remove. Not really a bad job.
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Old 11-09-2018, 01:47 PM   #14
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A lot of good suggestions here. I had to replace my hydraulic hoses about 4 years ago and I pretty much had the problem you are talking about. I had a bear of a time trying to remove the driver's side hose that went from the hydraulic tank to the driver's side rear jack. It was between the frame and bottom of the MH floor, tight for sure. I finally took my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and pretty much cut it up to where I could finally remove it. Wasn't pretty but I got it done. My fuel tank wires etc. were in the way too. I obviously kept all the pieces so I would know how long of hose to have made. Probably, if you have another hose made you may want to have it a little longer just in case you find a better route to run the hose. My hose was about 16 years old so it was probably about due to be changed out. I had a local hydraulic shop make my hose (30 Ft./cost about $185.00), that way I knew I was getting a hose of the same quality. After running the new hose, I cut some pieces of heater hose where I thought that it could possibly rub. I'll bet if you look under your camper you may be able to able more suitable route. Good luck with your project and keep us posted on your progress.
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