Hydraulic jack fluid, do I change it?

[Vickie 4369]

Change mine yesterday I used a vacuum fluid transfer tool 10 min Done

Took 6 quarts

[TeJay]

Back in the mid 70]s I first read about synthetics. Over the years they have come way down in price and I still have not read any article that does not praise the high qualities of synthetics. We just got a 2002 Honda for our first Toad. It is a manual and I'm going to switch to Amsoils synchromesh fully synthetic manual transmission fluid. Sine some of the gears will be turning as we are pulling and I will have the best oil I can get. That extra friction reduction can't do anything but help. Amsoil also makes a full synthetic hydraulic oil which I would consider using in a jack system as well. I look at it this way. If it is approved by the company why not get the best lubricant you can get?? Fords Mercon 5 is a fully synthetic transmission fluid. Those of you driving an F-53 chassis the rear end fluid has been synthetic back as far as 1999.
JM2CW
TeJay

[Ray,IN]

My HWH system (2000) is not a closed system, it has a breather vent in the cap that has a dip-stick on it to check oil level, and it has a screen covering the vent in the cap. This vent sucks in outside air every time the jacks are extended. This leads to condensation in the storage tank. Over time this condensation will cause problems, just like bluegrasser described.
BTW, HWH manual says to use Dextron ll or compatible A/T fluid.
I'm not going to attempt to change the oil/fluid myself. I'll go to the HWH factory (<300 miles from me) and have them do all the dirty work of removing the hoses, storage tank, and flushing out the old stuff. Then they can inspect my HWH system and make any repairs or updates at the same time.

[buck454]

It has been mentioned that in adding fluid to reservior or just checking fluid level, jacks should be fully retracted, might I add that if you have slides that are hydralic then they should be in also. My PG reservior does not have dip stick so I just marked a dowel rod about half inch from top of tank and use it for check. If jacks and or slides appear to be slower than usual, a check is a good idea. b

[little john]

workig on hydrulic for 30 years there are no brging in hydrulic cylindes but some mfg. call bushings bearings don't know why.

Little John
looking for class A some day

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by buck454

It has been mentioned that in adding fluid to reservior or just checking fluid level, jacks should be fully retracted, might I add that if you have slides that are hydralic then they should be in also. My PG reservior does not have dip stick so I just marked a dowel rod about half inch from top of tank and use it for check. If jacks and or slides appear to be slower than usual, a check is a good idea. b

Hydraulic operated slide mechanisms are full of oil whether they are extended or retracted. They are operated by double-acting cylinders, ie" one end is full either way they are moved. Thus it does not matter which position they are in when checking oil, at least according to my HWH manual. Jacks are either full or empty/ one-way cylinders, thus the HWH requirement they be retracted/stored.

[Vickie 4369]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Hydraulic operated slide mechanisms are full of oil whether they are extended or retracted. They are operated by double-acting cylinders, ie" one end is full either way they are moved. Thus it does not matter which position they are in when checking oil, at least according to my HWH manual. Jacks are either full or empty/ one-way cylinders, thus the HWH requirement they be retracted/stored.

Your somewhat right, the Shaft displaces quite a bit of fluid so you should have everything retracted or you could easily overfill.

Ted.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by GULFSTREAM37

Your somewhat right, the Shaft displaces quite a bit of fluid so you should have everything retracted or you could easily overfill.

Ted.

I ran a check on our MH today. Checked oil level with slide in, then with slide out. There is 1/8" difference on dip stick, a negligible amount. I'll stick with what HWH states in their manual.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Back in the mid 70]s I first read about synthetics. Over the years they have come way down in price and I still have not read any article that does not praise the high qualities of synthetics. We just got a 2002 Honda for our first Toad. It is a manual and I'm going to switch to Amsoils synchromesh fully synthetic manual transmission fluid. Sine some of the gears will be turning as we are pulling and I will have the best oil I can get. That extra friction reduction can't do anything but help. Amsoil also makes a full synthetic hydraulic oil which I would consider using in a jack system as well. I look at it this way. If it is approved by the company why not get the best lubricant you can get?? Fords Mercon 5 is a fully synthetic transmission fluid. Those of you driving an F-53 chassis the rear end fluid has been synthetic back as far as 1999.
JM2CW
TeJay

Since the Honda is a 2002 you won't ruin the warranty like on newer rigs. Personally I'd never use Amsoil in anything. A company that doesn't bother to get their products certified by the manufactures can't be trusted IMHO.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by little john

workig on hydrulic for 30 years there are no brging in hydrulic cylindes but some mfg. call bushings bearings don't know why.

Little John
looking for class A some day

Probably because a bushing is a type of bearing. Even the old, poured in babbit ones in a Model A are a bearing.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

My HWH system (2000) is not a closed system, it has a breather vent in the cap that has a dip-stick on it to check oil level, and it has a screen covering the vent in the cap. This vent sucks in outside air every time the jacks are extended. This leads to condensation in the storage tank. Over time this condensation will cause problems, just like bluegrasser described.
BTW, HWH manual says to use Dextron ll or compatible A/T fluid.
I'm not going to attempt to change the oil/fluid myself. I'll go to the HWH factory (<300 miles from me) and have them do all the dirty work of removing the hoses, storage tank, and flushing out the old stuff. Then they can inspect my HWH system and make any repairs or updates at the same time.

No such thing as "Dextron". Never has been.
In fact there isn't even Dexron III now as GM has quit testing or certifying that fluid.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

No such thing as "Dextron". Never has been.
In fact there isn't even Dexron III now as GM has quit testing or certifying that fluid.

You are correct. That's why it also says "or compatible fluid" I bought 3 quarts at WalMart, the bottle states compatible with dextron ll,lll, and some others. Doesn't matter, one quart re-filled the tank and jacks work swell again.

[bluegrasser]

I mentioned in a previous post that I would report back when I Had the cylinders re-installed. Crummy weather delayed the job, but they are now back on, the lines hooked up, the electrical connections done, one new solenoid installed and the fluid changed to dexron III. The results are spectacular. All jacks are back up in less than 40 seconds, and this is in 90f heat. Prior to the rebuild & change, the warmer it got the slower the retraction. At 90f they would not have moved at all. Strangely they worked just fine at 50f or less prior to the repairs. The fluid that came out was neither clear as in HWH fluid, nor red as in ATF, but a pale reddish brown. I have no idea what the previous owner did with the fluid, but I do know he had problems with the system. The selenoids were a problem shorting out, ( I have replaced 3 of them) I suspect caused by long or stuck retraction times. As for the "bearing controversy" that I have stirred up, I doubt it was a ball or roller type, but there are other types of bearings, ie. sleeve and I assume this is what is in there. I read elsewhere on a forum that there has been problems with a bushing in some cylinders. Anyhow mission accomplished & a happy owner. Thanks for everyone's interest.