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03-24-2017, 09:47 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Deer Island , Oregon
Posts: 43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75
I've been thinking about those aluminum. I was pricing hydraulics for almost 3000. That is a little outside my price range.
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mcarden,
I would start with the threaded aluminum stabilizers, they are cheap and may work perfectly for ya, well they might fix one of your problems. LOL
I used them for 5 years on my old 1987 class C without any issues. I also carried around 4 pieces of 2 x 12's for when we were on soft ground.
Dean
__________________
Dean , Erika and Roscoe, the flat coat retriever
2004 Southwind 36E ,W22
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03-24-2017, 09:52 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75
If you don't mind me asking, how much did the hydraulics run you?
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I think the set up from Quadra Bigfoot was just under $3k for a manual single pump system with four 12K lbs. jacks. I did the install except for welding the mounts for the jacks and pump unit. Mobile welder off Craig's List was $100 or so.
Official Bigfoot© Store
If your budget is restricted the aluminum screw jacks will work. Level the coach with wood under the tires then place the jacks under the frame to limit the suspension bounce. Do a dress rehearsal in the driveway first. Even with an adjustment range of 11-17 inches it might not be enough and you'll need something under them.
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03-24-2017, 10:35 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetbriar
I think the set up from Quadra Bigfoot was just under $3k for a manual single pump system with four 12K lbs. jacks. I did the install except for welding the mounts for the jacks and pump unit. Mobile welder off Craig's List was $100 or so.
Official Bigfoot© Store
If your budget is restricted the aluminum screw jacks will work. Level the coach with wood under the tires then place the jacks under the frame to limit the suspension bounce. Do a dress rehearsal in the driveway first. Even with an adjustment range of 11-17 inches it might not be enough and you'll need something under them.
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Thank you. Cost wise I'll try the aluminum but it will have to wait until after our trip. This is a nice coach but with all the extras, I'm surprised no leveling jacks. I bought it used of course for a little over 9000.
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03-24-2017, 11:07 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75
I've been thinking about those aluminum. I was pricing hydraulics for almost 3000. That is a little outside my price range.
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Just a follow-up note. The aluminum stands are meant to stabilize only. They do a good job of that. They are not meant for leveling.
For leveling: I put boards down and run the wheels up on them to level from side to side. I use the trailer jack to level from front to back. Then, I put the stands under the frame and run them up so there is a little bit of upward pressure on the bottom of the frame. This last step is what stabilizes the trailer.
For longer stays in one location I have used "stall mats" (used in horse stables) instead of the boards. The ones I purchased came in 4'x6' sizes. They can be cut to width and length with a sharp utility knife and repeated shallow cuts. I can stack them up (make the ends line up like stair steps so the tires can easily climb them) to whatever I need to make the trailer level. They are a bit heavy, but very durable (horses stand on them) and are weatherproof.
For another, and lightweight, leveling option try a google search for "Camco leveling blocks." They look a bit like heavy duty legos. I don't know anything more about them, so you are on your own with this idea.
__________________
Charles and Beverly
"The Eagle" - 1991 American Eagle 38J - Cummins 6CTA8.3 300hp DP, Allison MT643 4spd. Trans., Spartan chassis.
Link to our Eagle Thread
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03-24-2017, 11:23 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwk
Just a follow-up note. The aluminum stands are meant to stabilize only. They do a good job of that. They are not meant for leveling.
For leveling: I put boards down and run the wheels up on them to level from side to side. I use the trailer jack to level from front to back. Then, I put the stands under the frame and run them up so there is a little bit of upward pressure on the bottom of the frame. This last step is what stabilizes the trailer.
For longer stays in one location I have used "stall mats" (used in horse stables) instead of the boards. The ones I purchased came in 4'x6' sizes. They can be cut to width and length with a sharp utility knife and repeated shallow cuts. I can stack them up (make the ends line up like stair steps so the tires can easily climb them) to whatever I need to make the trailer level. They are a bit heavy, but very durable (horses stand on them) and are weatherproof.
For another, and lightweight, leveling option try a google search for "Camco leveling blocks." They look a bit like heavy duty legos. I don't know anything more about them, so you are on your own with this idea.
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I have the camco leveling blocks. At first I was concerned with the duallies in the back if I should level one tire or both on the side. I just order the aluminum which will be here on Monday. Thanks for the heads up.
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03-24-2017, 03:59 PM
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#20
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Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75
That's not a bad price. They work pretty good? Another thing I'm trying to figure out is how to level the darn thing with dullies.
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I use the sissor jacks on my 30' alergo class A. Works good, I use a battery powered impact wrench (porter cable brand 20 volt) to raise/lower and in moments i'm stable!
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03-24-2017, 09:40 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: BC, Cariboo, Lower Mainland.
Posts: 2,293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75
I have a motorcoach that doesn't have stabilizers or leveling jacks. Last weekend we took the coach on a short vacation. I invited a friend and his girlfriend. Let's just say motion sickness was there. Is there any way to keep the coach a little more stable?
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Don't invite another couple?
__________________
2022 25FKBS
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03-25-2017, 06:03 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: B.C.
Posts: 4,638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75
Easier said then done. They want to go again lol.
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They sound like happy campers!
I think you can buy the sissor type crank down jacks fairly reasonable and attach them to your unit permanently. Some trailers only have them on the back but if you put them on all four corners it should stabilize it.
__________________
Dennis & Marcie & Captain Hook The Jack Russell,aka PUP, 2006 Itasca 29R 2017 Equinox toad. RVM59
We came, we went, nothing broken, nothing bent!
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03-25-2017, 06:09 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tampa Area (sometimes!)
Posts: 620
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Are you saying they got sick while were parked? Really! If that's true, I'd find some more stabilized friends!
__________________
Randy and Tina & fur baby - Cinnamon
2020 Tiffin Wayfarer RW
Mercedes Benz 2019 Sprinter Chassis
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03-25-2017, 07:11 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 2,594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75
That's not a bad price. They work pretty good? Another thing I'm trying to figure out is how to level the darn thing with dullies.
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We had a Class C with dualies and no levelers and just used Camco leveling blocks. It didn't matter that only the outside tire was on the blocks. After leveling a few times you get to the point that you can pretty much guess right just from how far off the level is.
__________________
2021 Keystone Outback 221UMD
2018 Tundra Limited 5.7 liter
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03-25-2017, 08:50 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdInArk
We had a Class C with dualies and no levelers and just used Camco leveling blocks. It didn't matter that only the outside tire was on the blocks. After leveling a few times you get to the point that you can pretty much guess right just from how far off the level is.
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I was wondering about that. I have 5th wheels and pull behinds and leveled plenty of times. First time with an RV and luckily it seems pretty level at the campground. At least the doors aren't acting as ghost are pushing on them lol.
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03-28-2017, 07:14 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdInArk
,,,It didn't matter that only the outside tire was on the blocks.,,,
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It does matter. The single tire is now taking the weight of both and could be overloaded.
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03-28-2017, 07:57 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 2,594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetbriar
It does matter. The single tire is now taking the weight of both and could be overloaded.
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I respectably disagree. It's sitting completely still. I've even seen them driven short distances to tire shops with one wheel on one side removed.
But maybe it's best we just agree to disagree
__________________
2021 Keystone Outback 221UMD
2018 Tundra Limited 5.7 liter
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03-28-2017, 08:47 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 187
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I made my own version of these out of steel tubing for my old class A without hydraulic jacks.
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-0201.../dp/B001UGJPXQ
I used the plastic blocks to level and then one in the front, back and under the frame behind the stairs and it really made a huge difference.
Thanks
Adam
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