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Old 11-29-2016, 10:37 AM   #1
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Ideas on how to route inverter wires

I'm going to install a dedicated inverter to power my fridge. My fridge is located on the passenger side above the furnace. My batteries are in a battery slide out tray on the drivers side all the way to the rear of the coach. My plan is to mount the inverter in the electrical bay which is adjacent and just forward of the battery compartment. That is also where my converter charger is located. My question is how to run the AC feed from the inverter to the fridge. My AC breaker box is located in the bedroom on the wall in a cabinet that faces the rear of the coach. My first choice is to remove the feed from the fridge to the AC breaker box and connect there but I don't see a way to bring the AC from the inverter to this area. My other choice it to exit the electrical bay from the bottom and run the AC wires in some flex conduit underneath the coach and come back up from under the furnace and then through the floor the fridge is resting on to the back of the fridge. The fridge is located forward of the rear axle and the electrical bay is behind the rear axle. Any ideas?
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:59 AM   #2
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The inverter should be close to the batteries, DC doesn't do as well over distance as AC does. The inverter will also create heat, it should be ventilated for cooling. Routing the wire is a case by case basis, using the frame channel for protected runs, with flexible conduit are all recommended. I wouldn't go through the breaker panel, I'm sure the inverter has it's own 120v breaker on the output.
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:10 AM   #3
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The inverter should be close to the batteries, DC doesn't do as well over distance as AC does. The inverter will also create heat, it should be ventilated for cooling. Routing the wire is a case by case basis, using the frame channel for protected runs, with flexible conduit are all recommended. I wouldn't go through the breaker panel, I'm sure the inverter has it's own 120v breaker on the output.
The electrical bay has good ventilation (well pretty good) and the run from the inverter to the batteries is less than 3 ft. That's why I chose that location. I was not considering to actually use the AC breaker box to connect the inverter just remove the Ac feed from the fridge and tie in. I did not explain it very well.
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Old 11-29-2016, 02:11 PM   #4
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The electrical bay has good ventilation (well pretty good) and the run from the inverter to the batteries is less than 3 ft. That's why I chose that location. I was not considering to actually use the AC breaker box to connect the inverter just remove the Ac feed from the fridge and tie in. I did not explain it very well.
a couple of points. Be Sure that the fridge is on a separate feed befor tieing in if you choose that route. If the feed to the fridge also feeds other outlets it could cause you problems make sure the feed to the fridge is separate from everything else. I did something similar and ran outside weatherproof ac romex in flex conduit along the frame tying it up with nylon ties.
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:19 PM   #5
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a couple of points. Be Sure that the fridge is on a separate feed befor tieing in if you choose that route. If the feed to the fridge also feeds other outlets it could cause you problems make sure the feed to the fridge is separate from everything else. I did something similar and ran outside weatherproof ac romex in flex conduit along the frame tying it up with nylon ties.
Mel
Yes I agree. I'll most likely not go that and find a outside path over to the fridge for a direct connection.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:02 PM   #6
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"noserider"......When I added the Samsung refer to my Diplomat, I did exactly what you're trying to do. I bought a Magnum 600 watt inverter with a "pass thru" switch. I mounted it to the ceiling of the bay where my main inverter was located. It made things simple and a short run to he batteries.

I ran Romex, inside flexible pvc conduit, under the coach and up behind the refer. I wired the inverter to one side of the dual outlet behind the refer and left the original shore power source on the other side of the dual outlet. Since I would leave my coach plugged in at home, I would often switch the plug from the inverted out let to the shore power outlet so that the inverter could be turned off when parked for long periods of time. It also gives you some options if the inverter quits.

On Monaco products, they ran shore power outlets and inverter outlets to the back fo the refer so that the ice maker on the Norcolds could run, even when the refer was on propane. On my Monaco, I actually had two dual outlets behind the refer. I had a choice of running the residential refer on either inverter or shore power.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:32 PM   #7
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Guess I need to know why you need a dedicated inverter for your fridge? You probably need to install a pass-thru inverter so you don't need two plug-ins at the fridge that you have to switch manually for shore power. If its a pass-thru, you will need a 120v source for the inverter. At that point, an inverter/charger to keep your bats charged might be a better option?????
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:48 PM   #8
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Guess I need to know why you need a dedicated inverter for your fridge? You probably need to install a pass-thru inverter so you don't need two plug-ins at the fridge that you have to switch manually for shore power. If its a pass-thru, you will need a 120v source for the inverter. At that point, an inverter/charger to keep your bats charged might be a better option?????
It would be a pretty big hassle to install a larger inverter/charger and then wire in all the plugs to use the inverter. There is also the extra load on the batteries with a larger inverter plus the extra cost for the larger inverter charger. My biggest need is to be able to run the fridge in route without running the generator. Unlike a lot of forum members my dash AC does a really good job of keeping the coach cool so I often don't need to run the generator for cooling. I currently only have 2 6 volt house batteries but plan to install a new bank of Trojan T105 soon. My converter charger is a pretty good Progressive Dynamics with a smart charger so don't need to improve on the charger function either. The inverter I plan on using does have the pass through feature so there will be no need to swap outlets for the fridge.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:51 PM   #9
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"noserider"......When I added the Samsung refer to my Diplomat, I did exactly what you're trying to do. I bought a Magnum 600 watt inverter with a "pass thru" switch. I mounted it to the ceiling of the bay where my main inverter was located. It made things simple and a short run to he batteries.

I ran Romex, inside flexible pvc conduit, under the coach and up behind the refer. I wired the inverter to one side of the dual outlet behind the refer and left the original shore power source on the other side of the dual outlet. Since I would leave my coach plugged in at home, I would often switch the plug from the inverted out let to the shore power outlet so that the inverter could be turned off when parked for long periods of time. It also gives you some options if the inverter quits.

On Monaco products, they ran shore power outlets and inverter outlets to the back fo the refer so that the ice maker on the Norcolds could run, even when the refer was on propane. On my Monaco, I actually had two dual outlets behind the refer. I had a choice of running the residential refer on either inverter or shore power.

Don

You had replied to a previous thread of mine on inverter selection about the magnum you had with the pass though. I researched this pass through feature and that is the way I'm going. Thanks for that tip.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:52 PM   #10
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It would be a pretty big hassle to install a larger inverter/charger and then wire in all the plugs to use the inverter. There is also the extra load on the batteries with a larger inverter plus the extra cost for the larger inverter charger. My biggest need is to be able to run the fridge in route without running the generator. Unlike a lot of forum members my dash AC does a really good job of keeping the coach cool so I often don't need to run the generator for cooling. I currently only have 2 6 volt house batteries but plan to install a new bank of Trojan T105 soon. My converter charger is a pretty good Progressive Dynamics with a smart charger so don't need to improve on the charger function either. The inverter I plan on using does have the pass through feature so there will be no need to swap outlets for the fridge.
What inverter are you planing on using?
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:03 AM   #11
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Ok--now I get it. Don't know how your rig is wired but for many rigs, the shore power and inverter powered breakers are in the same or adjacent distro-boxes. In which case, it very easy to simply switch the circuit that powers the fridge from the shore-power only side to the inverter side, right at the breaker panel--no need to add circuit/wire runs or install a separate inverter.....
PS--conversation with a Xantrex tech rep at a recent FMCA indicated minimal difference in power consumption between medium size inverters [eg 600-1000] vs a fairly std size [2000] whole-coach inverter.
PSS--like my 03 Alpine, many older coaches have older fridges with auto defrost cycles for the evap coil--this cycle take considerably more power than the normal amp draw from the compressor alone.
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:10 AM   #12
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I am doing a similar type thing for my Bounder. Adding a smaller (600-800w) inverter for resid refer and some wall outlets where I will have small amp draw (think alarm clock, fan). This will allow me to use the existing 2000w inverter for my micro/convection that is currently not wired into the inverter. I have a new Samsung refer and only draws 1.1 amp.
I will be getting a pass thru type inverter and wiring a new circuit into the existing breaker panel for it too.
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:06 AM   #13
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Ok--now I get it. Don't know how your rig is wired but for many rigs, the shore power and inverter powered breakers are in the same or adjacent distro-boxes. In which case, it very easy to simply switch the circuit that powers the fridge from the shore-power only side to the inverter side, right at the breaker panel--no need to add circuit/wire runs or install a separate inverter.....
PS--conversation with a Xantrex tech rep at a recent FMCA indicated minimal difference in power consumption between medium size inverters [eg 600-1000] vs a fairly std size [2000] whole-coach inverter.
PSS--like my 03 Alpine, many older coaches have older fridges with auto defrost cycles for the evap coil--this cycle take considerably more power than the normal amp draw from the compressor alone.
Unfortunately my AC breaker panel is located in the bedroom on a wall above the bed in a cabinet. All the wires appear to feed through the ceiling and down the wall. I have factored in the extra amp draw during the defrost. Great info thanks.
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:31 AM   #14
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What inverter are you planing on using?
jt


DonRowe.com: KISAE SWXFR1210 1000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter with Automatic Transfer Switch

Or

http://www.donrowe.com/Magnum-Energy-MM612-p/mm612.htm
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