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I doubt you will ever get the belt molding to go back over the bolt and aluminum strip.
I had to redo a bunch of mine on my rear passenger side. A leak ended up rusting off most of the fasteners. I ended up using SS rivets. They will never rust but hope I never have to drill them out. Bought a pneumatic rivet gun to do the job, I could barely set the rivets with either of my 2 hand riveters. It was a struggle for the air one also.
Interesting thanks for responding. Maybe your problem was just the fastening of the strip to the aluminum coach frame. My problem is that I need to fasten the aluminum coach frame to the steel chassis frame!
In my case I would have needed massive 2.5inch rivet heads, which they prob don't make.
Not worried about the rubber belt moudling as it did refasten nicely, but I had to drill holes in the moulding so the bolt heads could poke through (I'll just silicone over the head/moulding). Which you can see in the first picture.
It might help if you tell us the brand and model of coach, as then someone here might know something about the construction style.
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates