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Old 10-10-2020, 10:07 PM   #1
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Installing Manual RF340-4PR-ASL--Leveling; Molex Help

I have given up on my Atwood Levelegs auto controller and have ordered a Gamma RF340 module that will allow atleast manual operation of my Bounder's Levelegs.

I really didn't want to cut the wiring harness on my Bounder on the two harnesses that plug into the Atwood 66275 module that I am removing. I was hoping to pickup a couple of male molex connectors that can be plugged directly into the harness and then wired to the new Gamma module.

Can any one help me find the matching connectors? I would appreciate any help in this direction, or any other tips for this conversion.
Thanks, Mark

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Old 10-11-2020, 04:54 AM   #2
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Mark-

I can't identify those connectors.

Sometimes a distributor can ID things for you. I buy parts like these from Allied Electronics, Digi-Key, Mouser and Newark. They let you order in small quantities. Give their support lines a call and see if they can help you.

I think the same way you do, preferring the "plug-and-play" that connectors provide. If you come up short, here's an alternative:

1) Cut off the Atwood connectors, leaving a long tail on each.
2) Splice a section of wire to each Atwood wire (using matching gauge and color, and heat-seal crimp connectors).
3) Terminate the lengthened Atwood wires on a terminal strip (suitably protected from the elements, and close enough to the controller position that the original connector pigtails will reach). I like the Altech HE4HN "Eurostrip" terminal strip design for this.
4) Run wires from the other side of the terminal strip to your new controller.

If you should want to revert to the Atwood controller, remove the wires from the terminal strip and replace them with the tails from the Atwood connectors.

By the way, if you run leveling motors separately you stand the chance of twisting the coach. This can cause damage- some you can see, such as a cracked windshield, and some you can't, such as broken fasteners at joints. Note that this can be a problem both lifting and lowering.

OEM controllers can command a four-point system to act as a three-point system, thus reducing the chances of twisting. In hydraulic systems, three-point operation can be accomplished by piping and valving. My coach does this by having a common control valve for the two front cylinders.
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Old 10-11-2020, 08:41 AM   #3
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Those don't look like standard Molex connectors. I also would caution you against activating the cylinders individually. As mentioned previously most leveling systems always activate the cylinders in pairs to avoid twisting the frame of the coach. Also many incorporate interlocks so that you can't deploy the jacks unless you are in Park and the brake is set, etc. Building your own controller is certainly possible but not as simple as just wiring the outputs to individual cylinders. If you do end up leveling using individual cylinders you may notice thing's like the door of the coach won't open because the frame\body are distorted. Really not a good idea.
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Old 10-11-2020, 11:31 AM   #4
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We converted to the Gamma system a couple of years ago and haven't had any problems leveling. It takes a little longer than the Atwood, but I've had a lot less grief.

My procedure is to dump the air, then run each jack down until it just touches the ground. After that I activate the jacks in pairs, side to side or front to back depending on which area needs to be raised.

Gamma has an “All” button that I use to retract the jacks until they're clear of the ground, then I individually stow them and stop before the clutch(es) kick in.

The other option to stow is to fill the air ride bags, then retract each jack individually.
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Old 10-11-2020, 03:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Mark-

I can't identify those connectors...
Everyone, Thank you so much for the all the links and ideas. Hopefully, I'll be able to source a mating coupler to keep the conversion very simple and easily reversible. Although, after reading hours of threads, I don't see much promise for an aftermarket company to make a replacement that will auto level after this amount of time.

Side Story: I found a wrecking yard that had a used module...they wanted a $1000 plus a $400 core charge. These units, nor its other components, don't have a great track record to risk that kind of money on a used unit. When this all first started, I had paid a company to rebuild the key pad, which after hundreds of dollars was told it was irreparable, which led to me buying a NOS pad for $400...they kept the pad. To make things even worst, when I installed the new key pad, I found out it was the controller that went out. In other words, a perfectly good key pad was ruined trying to "repair" it. I've lost faith in the repairing process of this system.

I also read all the warnings about twisting the frame, and I will use the manual system with caution.

I haven't asked this question of the company, but my biggest fear is the system malfunctioning and activating the jacks while driving. You have to hit a two key sequence to turn the system on, and then you have time out options, but I still worry. I am contemplating connecting a relay that interrupts the power from the battery to the Gamma manual controller. This way I can ensure no power can pass through the system when driving, etc.

Another wonder of mine...these units are RF controlled. With I assume a fair amount of Gamma units out there with all these Atwood systems failing, I wonder what would happen if two RV rigs are near each other in a RV park, both equipped with these units, and one unit starts to activate it's Gamma controlled jacks???

I may just be showing my ignorance...just a wonder.

If I can't find the molex connector, perhaps I can get a junk Atwood controller and gut it to use it for the connector and leads to the new Gamma unit.

Thanks again everyone...appreciate all feedback.
Mark
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Old 10-11-2020, 04:12 PM   #6
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Installing Manual RF340-4PR-ASL--Leveling; Molex Help

I think your fears of an accidental turn on are unfounded. Yes, it's a 2 button activation with a short pause in between. Sometimes I have to do it 2 or 3 times to get it turned on, but I'm willing to live with the hassle.

When you get it all hooked up, there's a process to match the transmitter with the receiver, I've never had a problem with another coach interference.

Did you also get the single channel key fob to activate the air dump valve? I think it's RFR12V1C.
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Old 10-11-2020, 08:19 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Martind4 View Post
I think your fears of an accidental turn on are unfounded. Yes, it's a 2 button activation with a short pause in between. Sometimes I have to do it 2 or 3 times to get it turned on, but I'm willing to live with the hassle.

When you get it all hooked up, there's a process to match the transmitter with the receiver, I've never had a problem with another coach interference.

Did you also get the single channel key fob to activate the air dump valve? I think it's RFR12V1C.
Good news to hear I'm over thinking this...
No air bags on my coach.
Thanks for the info,
Mark
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Old 10-12-2020, 01:32 PM   #8
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I'm getting closer, I've identified the wiring harness molex connector that plugs into my defective Atwood controller.

Can someone help me find some connector that will plug into the molex connector that will allow me to run wires to the aftermarket Gamma module without cutting my motorhome's wiring harness.

Here is the connector:
Molex, Mini-Fit Sr Female Connector Housing, 10mm Pitch, 5 Way, 1 Row
• RS Stock No.342-4140
• BrandMolex
Mfr Part No.42816-0512
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Here is a close-up of the Atwood Controller socket.
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I can't seem to find something I can use to plug into my harness' molex connector.
Appreciate any help,
Mark
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Old 10-12-2020, 01:43 PM   #9
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Molex 42818-0512
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Old 10-12-2020, 03:47 PM   #10
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Allied Electronics Web page for that part number is here. The picture is incorrect, but that happens.
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Old 10-12-2020, 07:19 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Allied Electronics Web page for that part number is here. The picture is incorrect, but that happens.
Thank you so much for all your help! This is really going to make the conversion clean and easily reversible.
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Old 10-12-2020, 08:07 PM   #12
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Digikey, very helpful on the phone when I contacted them
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Old 10-12-2020, 09:21 PM   #13
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Parts needed not to cut Atwood Harness

Here's the final low down to save others in the future the parts needed to connect a Gamma RF340-4PR-ASL module in place of an Atwood Controller 66275 without cutting your RV wiring harness. Just add some 10 gauge wire to the the housing and connect to the screws on the Gamma module.
The following order was placed from https://www.digikey.com/.

Cost including shipping was around $26. This will give you the two Housings: 10.00mm Pitch Mini-Fit Sr. Plug Housing, Single Row, Panel Mount, 5 Circuit, Black 428180512 and 10 Male Terminals, 0428171014
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Old 10-20-2020, 09:17 PM   #14
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Parts all came and had a chance to get them all hooked-up. Adding the Molex connector to the GAMMA unit made it plug directly into my Bounder's Levelegs wiring harness. My levelers work again!
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