Is Internet Price bottom price?

[volvik]

So we continue to look for our elusive Winnebago/Itasca 32H floor plan in around a 2009 model. When we see dealer ads that list their price and then provide their 'Internet Price"......for example:

2003 Dutch Star with a generic NADA value on it of Low 58.8 Average 70.8

List price $81.9
Internet Price $69.9

Are these Internet Prices they mention their low price or is there typically still room to go down further?

I realize it's subjective on a number of levels but just curious if you can expect more movement from them in a downward direction.



Thanks again!

[Elf]

Originally Posted by volvik

So we continue to look for our elusive Winnebago/Itasca 32H floor plan in around a 2009 model. When we see dealer ads that list their price and then provide their 'Internet Price"......for example:

2003 Dutch Star with a generic NADA value on it of Low 58.8 Average 70.8

List price $81.9
Internet Price $69.9

Are these Internet Prices they mention their low price or is there typically still room to go down further?

I realize it's subjective on a number of levels but just curious if you can expect more movement from them in a downward direction.



Thanks again!

I have not seen an "Internet price" that I thought was a great deal. When I first started looking for an RV a number of years ago I just about laughed at what dealers were asking for used RVs. I honestly didn't even want to try to deal with some of them that we're so ridiculously high. Even if they knocked 25% off of the prices they would have been high. I still have some of my comparison notes I see on occasion and I just laugh.

I'm sure there are some around that aren't that way. I just didn't find them. Research what you want and figure what a reasonable price would be and negotiate from there without regard to what price is being advertised.

[usinvestment]

Always, always negotiate for a better deal. The dealer is only your friend before you buy, they don't want to see you after the deal is done.

Each dealership is different. How long has the unit been sitting there. If you have been watching the unit for months then obvious it's been there for some time and dealer is more apt to come down. Always stick to you budget and make them a low offer, saying no doesn't mean the deal is over, often you will be surprised.

Then there are dealers that won't budge no matter what. Don't do business with them, move on and find another unit. Never fall in love with only one unit, keep looking and find a dealer willing to negotiate.

Before I bought, I made offers on 5 units before I found a dealer willing to play. So what if you need to take a flight and drive home, if it means saving thousands net, net then be flexible.

[TonyDi]

No matter where you see the MH you want, there is always room for negotiation. Whether is is a MH,a house, a car, or whatever they always know lower bid prices are gonna come in so there is always a built up price. What's the worse that could happen...they so no? You can always go up on your bid but you can never go down.

[GaryKD]

There is always room for negotiation. How you get the lowest price is:
1. Determine (via inspection) this is the coach you want.
2. Write the sales agreement for the price you are willing to pay.
3. Provide a deposit check to accompany the sales agreement.
4. The ball is in the dealer's court to accept or reject.
5. If they reject, be prepared to walk.

True story, I've had the salesman and his manager come running out to my car (as soon as the headlights came on and they knew I was really going to drive away) to accept the deal they had previously rejected.

[volvik]

Thanks for the great input fellas. We have been looking for some time and were lucky that the floor plan and model (Adventurer/Suncruiser 32H) was on a local lot so we spent a lot of time pouring over it so now it's just a matter of finding the right one.

We do plan on sticking to our budget. We'd prefer the 09 or the 08 to not have the split windshield however that appears to be the only change in the model so I'm not sure if that should remain a deal breaker.

There is an 08 Sunrise and 09 Adventurer in WA state right now asking $82 & $86 respectively. Needless to say the 09 is preferable, it's been listed for quite awhile and he just recently dropped it to the $86. I'd like to think $70 max is a better number given the NADA guide.

[olddog1943]

I concur with what's already been said. I watched my unit's price keep dropping for months before I made the call and then got another 10K off that price. Bought it below NADA wholesale book. All they can do is say no. Who knows where the bottom is? It all depends on their acquisition cost so make offers you can't believe they would take and you might be surprised.

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by GaryKD

There is always room for negotiation. How you get the lowest price is:
1. Determine (via inspection) this is the coach you want.
2. Write the sales agreement for the price you are willing to pay.
3. Provide a deposit check to accompany the sales agreement.
4. The ball is in the dealer's court to accept or reject.
5. If they reject, be prepared to walk.

True story, I've had the salesman and his manager come running out to my car (as soon as the headlights came on and they knew I was really going to drive away) to accept the deal they had previously rejected.

that is called "power of walk"

[Romeo]

Originally Posted by GaryKD

There is always room for negotiation. How you get the lowest price is:
1. Determine (via inspection) this is the coach you want.
2. Write the sales agreement for the price you are willing to pay.
3. Provide a deposit check to accompany the sales agreement.
4. The ball is in the dealer's court to accept or reject.
5. If they reject, be prepared to walk.

True story, I've had the salesman and his manager come running out to my car (as soon as the headlights came on and they knew I was really going to drive away) to accept the deal they had previously rejected.

Very true and effective. That is my way of dealing and have had the same results and both times when we walked toward the door they came after us and we got what we wanted.

The two most important points are to write out the contract ( I usually ask them for one of their sales order forms) the way you want it AND ATTACH A DEPOSIT CHECK... $500 to $1000. Then when the salesman gets up and goes to the approval authority for their conference, get up and walk over to the exit door pretending that you don't think they will accept the offer. This really worries them. Don't worry about you deposit check, they can't keep it and you can always walk away and cancel payment if they really get nasty and won't return the sales offer with the check.

[Razzman]

Never assume what price they give is their rock bottom. When we bought ours it took three hours of negotiation only to walk away and have them call us to accept the deal. The result was 35K below what they wanted and way below wholesale. It can be done, just takes persistance.

[RustyJC]

The bottom price is the price at which you stop negotiating.

Rusty

[GlenStMary]

We've always used the internet price as our "starting point" and have always been able to get them to accept a much lower offer. I always look at the going price of units a year or so older than what I'm interested in and work my way up from there.

[vsheetz]

Virtually everything is negotiable...

[volvik]

Thanks...for clarification, when I've pulled up the NADA price on different years/models it gives the 3 numbers. Suggested retail (which I assume was it's price when new) then the Low Retail then the last is the Average Retail (which is higher than the Low).

Should I be be expecting them to go below the Low Retail number even if it's 'Shows as new' condition?

Just curious which number you're using to 'go below'.

Thanks.....