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Old 10-26-2016, 10:53 PM   #1
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Is there an expanding rubber material similar to "Great Stuff"?

We know what the "Great Stuff" is as seen in any home improvement stores. It becomes hard after set. Well, I am looking for a material similar to that but rubber based - it will remain flexible but fill the gaps/cracks and seal off the gas/smell. Is there such a thing out there?
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Old 10-26-2016, 11:34 PM   #2
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How about an expanding foam spray?
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:47 AM   #3
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How about an expanding foam spray?
if it remains flexible, sure that would be great.
where to buy? googled "expanding foam spray" the hit list shows "great stuff"; back to square one .
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:08 AM   #4
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I have not used any, but search for "spray can firestop." The traditional firestop products I saw used when I worked have a rubbery consistency. A few caveats, though:

1) Traditional firestop products are designed to expand when heated
2) They are usually red
3) They usually stain the contacting surfaces
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryFit View Post
We know what the "Great Stuff" is as seen in any home improvement stores. It becomes hard after set. Well, I am looking for a material similar to that but rubber based - it will remain flexible but fill the gaps/cracks and seal off the gas/smell. Is there such a thing out there?

What, specifically, are you trying to seal? Often, you can seal areas with overlapping sections of Eternabond.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:36 AM   #6
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As seen on TV - Flex-seal. Target $12.99 a can

It sprays on and dries like rubber. Not sure about expandability.
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:16 AM   #7
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As seen on TV - Flex-seal. Target $12.99 a can

It sprays on and dries like rubber. Not sure about expandability.
Ditto
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Old 10-27-2016, 11:37 AM   #8
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Great stuff made two kinds of sealer. One dried hard and the other soft. I think it was in a blue can. The hard stuff was in red. Check at lowes ,Home Depot ,etc
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Old 10-27-2016, 12:25 PM   #9
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Thanks everyone!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceisla View Post
What, specifically, are you trying to seal? Often, you can seal areas with overlapping sections of Eternabond.
it's not on roof, it's an internal thing between the floor/kitchen cabinet and the lower storage bays leading to engine bay. it's been a while that smells from under - engine waste, black/grey tank, absorption fridge exhaust, etc, the mix always found ways getting inside when coach was in motion. when it is stationed no any smells. for example, though i have checked engine bay and made sure no leaks on engine/turnbo/exhaust but there are always blowby's somewhere. whenever we open the drawers in galley pantry area , the smell is behind the drawers where the water heater located. but the smell is not from the heater self as it's sealed by thick silicon all around. i traced it down, a pair of green hoses actually go through the center channel all the way back to engine (CC designed that when engine is hot, the coolant will heat up the water without water heater on). so the smell is from engine. what i will to do is seal the opening at those area, particularly the access to center channel from engine bay.

for the engine smell, i am curious all others - do you have the engine smell inside more or less? a typical sign is looking up the edges of the a/c and ceiling light covers; if you remove them and see black soot lines, there you go you have it. I am not sure if it's a CC only issue, or all of them the same. I wish the manufacturers had sealed the engine bay before they installed the engine and other components.

In my case, the smell is very light, but the dw has sharp noses . from the health stand point, it's a must to get rid off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by genesimmons View Post
Great stuff made two kinds of sealer. One dried hard and the other soft. I think it was in a blue can. The hard stuff was in red. Check at lowes ,Home Depot ,etc
i have been to home depot, they only carry red. they have different types, i remember one of them is heat resistant. i asked them they didn't seem to know more than rvers here do. i will check lowes.
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:01 PM   #10
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I learned today that there's a difference between "fireblock" and "firestop."

Here's a fireblock product in a can; expands, but becomes rigid.

Here's a firestop product in a caulking tube; stays flexible. Second link here.

I should think if you're trying to seal penetrations in the engine area that some fire-barrier characteristics would be desired.

Anyway, thanks for the excuse to learn!
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryFit View Post
We know what the "Great Stuff" is as seen in any home improvement stores. It becomes hard after set. Well, I am looking for a material similar to that but rubber based - it will remain flexible but fill the gaps/cracks and seal off the gas/smell. Is there such a thing out there?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryFit View Post
it's not on roof, it's an internal thing between the floor/kitchen cabinet and the lower storage bays leading to engine bay. it's been a while that smells from under - engine waste, black/grey tank, absorption fridge exhaust, etc, the mix always found ways getting inside when coach was in motion. when it is stationed no any smells. for example, though i have checked engine bay and made sure no leaks on engine/turnbo/exhaust but there are always blowby's somewhere. whenever we open the drawers in galley pantry area , the smell is behind the drawers where the water heater located. but the smell is not from the heater self as it's sealed by thick silicon all around. i traced it down, a pair of green hoses actually go through the center channel all the way back to engine (CC designed that when engine is hot, the coolant will heat up the water without water heater on). so the smell is from engine. what i will to do is seal the opening at those area, particularly the access to center channel from engine bay.

for the engine smell, i am curious all others - do you have the engine smell inside more or less? a typical sign is looking up the edges of the a/c and ceiling light covers; if you remove them and see black soot lines, there you go you have it. I am not sure if it's a CC only issue, or all of them the same. I wish the manufacturers had sealed the engine bay before they installed the engine and other components.

In my case, the smell is very light, but the dw has sharp noses . from the health stand point, it's a must to get rid off.
CountryFit
Why do you think you need the sealant to remain flexible?
14 years ago, (over 110,000 miles ago), I sealed all of those smells/fumes out of my coach with an expanding foam sealant which got hard when it cured.

I can tell you this from my experience...When injected properly/fully into to every hole/opening/gap ... "ridged non-flexable expanding foam", (like Great Stuff), makes a perfect and permanent seal to prevent sooty engine fumes, and other odors/fumes, from entering the living area of a coach.

I have no doubt that a non-flexable foam sealer will work equally well for you.

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Old 10-27-2016, 02:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Country Fit-

I learned today that there's a difference between "fireblock" and "firestop."

Here's a fireblock product in a can; expands, but becomes rigid.

Here's a firestop product in a caulking tube; stays flexible. Second link here.

I should think if you're trying to seal penetrations in the engine area that some fire-barrier characteristics would be desired.

Anyway, thanks for the excuse to learn!
thanks mark for the links. i am learning everyday, love this board

Quote:
Originally Posted by mel s View Post
CountryFit
Why do you think you need the sealant to remain flexible?
14 years ago, (over 110,000 miles ago), I sealed all of those smells/fumes out of my coach with an expanding foam sealant which got hard when it cured.

I can tell you this from my experience...When injected properly/fully into to every hole/opening/gap ... "ridged non-flexable expanding foam", (like Great Stuff), makes a perfect and permanent seal to prevent sooty engine fumes, and other odors/fumes, from entering the living area of a coach.

I have no doubt that a non-flexable foam sealer will work equally well for you.

Mel
'96 Safari, 148k miles
mel, you always have and hand out good stuff actually, yeah why i need the flexible stuff? do i ever need to open them up? probably not. the only time there is a need to remove what i sprayed/filled would be those areas where hoses or electric cables are passing through, but the chance is slim... i'll think about it... thanks.
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Old 10-27-2016, 02:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryFit View Post
thanks mark for the links. i am learning everyday, love this board



mel, you always have and hand out good stuff actually, yeah why i need the flexible stuff? do i ever need to open them up? probably not. the only time there is a need to remove what i sprayed/filled would be those areas where hoses or electric cables are passing through, but the chance is slim... i'll think about it... thanks.
CountryFit
I have had to re-do some wiring and some plumbing over the years and it was easy to remove the rigid foam sealant, (or poke through it), whenever necessary....(re-sealing with new foam is also easy).
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:17 PM   #14
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Thanks everyone!!



it's not on roof, it's an internal thing between the floor/kitchen cabinet and the lower storage bays leading to engine bay. it's been a while that smells from under - engine waste, black/grey tank, absorption fridge exhaust, etc, the mix always found ways getting inside when coach was in motion. when it is stationed no any smells. for example, though i have checked engine bay and made sure no leaks on engine/turnbo/exhaust but there are always blowby's somewhere. whenever we open the drawers in galley pantry area , the smell is behind the drawers where the water heater located. but the smell is not from the heater self as it's sealed by thick silicon all around. i traced it down, a pair of green hoses actually go through the center channel all the way back to engine (CC designed that when engine is hot, the coolant will heat up the water without water heater on). so the smell is from engine. what i will to do is seal the opening at those area, particularly the access to center channel from engine bay.

for the engine smell, i am curious all others - do you have the engine smell inside more or less? a typical sign is looking up the edges of the a/c and ceiling light covers; if you remove them and see black soot lines, there you go you have it. I am not sure if it's a CC only issue, or all of them the same. I wish the manufacturers had sealed the engine bay before they installed the engine and other components.

In my case, the smell is very light, but the dw has sharp noses . from the health stand point, it's a must to get rid off.

i have been to home depot, they only carry red. they have different types, i remember one of them is heat resistant. i asked them they didn't seem to know more than rvers here do. i will check lowes.
I have this along a few seams in the bedroom where a carpeted panel covers an engine access area. I don't have a solution.
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