Is this safe to drive?

[twinboat]

The rear brackets break all the time and its only found while inspecting the underside.

Front or rear, its fine to drive. Its not like its going to fall over, it will just lean a bit more on turns.

Since its been broken for a while ( rust ), you will only notice the improvement once its fixed.

[Earl II]

Originally Posted by hohenwald48

If you look where the anti sway bar connecting link is connected to the anti sway bar you can see the "CHF" was not done. The link is attached to the the same hole as when it leaves the factory.

I see that now, yes.

[Dav L]

Welding sway bar links: the assumption is the welder has some experience.
Note: The original brand new link was welded too.
With the assumption it is done correctly (low porosity, correct penetration, proper filler rod), there isn't any issue welding a sway bar link.

Driving with a broken sway bar link: I wouldn't worry about it. You might want to zip tie the dangling pieces so they don't hit something they aren't supposed to. There can be a LOT of pressure on those pieces as evidenced that it broke in half.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

I intentionally cut my links in 1/2, then use a 1/2 inch water pipe to make the links a couple inches longer. been driving like this for years.. Very common for those who have done the CHF to make the links longer

I did the same water pipe/weld link extension on my 2007 F-53. However, my newer 2019 26K chassis uses front links with a double bend in them. You can see the offset bends in the OP's picture. I haven't heard of anyone extending those using the water pipe/weld method.

Additionally, on my newer F-53, the link bushings are not simply pressed into the link eye. They are fused to the link and to the center bearing of the link and can't be disassembled. I would imagine any welding on those links would ruin the bushing unless you could come up with a way to keep the eye cool.

[DirtRider]

I snapped a link on my e450. OReilly had one in stock, and I changed it in the parking lot. . Less likely they'd have one for an F53, but I'd call some parts stores.

[NXR]

The nut and bolt on the replacement will need to be torqued to 66 ft. lbs.

Ray

[T-Mo]

Is this something I could fix myself? It looks kinda simple but I know “looks” can be deceiving.

I’m not even sure what part to look up. And while I’m at it should I replace the other side too?

[Gordon Dewald]

Don't know what it is but I don't think I would drive it. At least very far or at anything more than a crawl.

[cptxguys]

Originally Posted by Gordon Dewald

Don't know what it is but I don't think I would drive it. At least very far or at anything more than a crawl.

It’s a stabilizer bar link. Part number for mine is 5K484. I’d replace both. Be sure to torque bolts to 66 ft. lbs.

[n2zon]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

I intentionally cut my links in 1/2, then use a 1/2 inch water pipe to make the links a couple inches longer. been driving like this for years.. Very common for those who have done the CHF to make the links longer

ALSO - The link should (may) be a stock item at Ford dealers.

IMPORTANT - It hasn't been mentioned yet, but you may want to take a look at the rear torsion bar also. These have a very common problem of the bolts coming out and braking the saddle that holds the torsion bar to the axle.

You're right. I didn't look carefully at the picture. I thought you were recommending welding the bar where it was loaded in torsion, not the link. Sorry 'bout that.

[Mudfrog]

WOW,, amazing the 180° replies we're seeing here.

The broken piece links the anti-sway bar to the chassis. Being that it's broken, the coach will lean more right or left during certain conditions such as when cornering or driving on an uneven surface. The advice to drive it home at a lower speed is good. The driver probably won't notice much, if any, difference.