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07-26-2012, 05:25 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,943
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12.5KW and 3-15,000 Penguins. Hanging meat going down the byway. 107 Degrees out
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07-26-2012, 06:25 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvguy40
You may have one thermostat that controls both zones. Mine's still old school... has 2 seperate thermostats.. one in the hall near the dinette, and one in the bedroom. The little round doohickey you're speaking of is most likely the temperature sensor for the thermostat...
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That's what we have...one thermostat that controls both units in separate zones.
__________________
2014 American Eagle 45T
DD 13, 500 HP
Pulling a Honda CRV
For Sale
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07-26-2012, 07:33 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,886
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We have a single thermostat for both zones, but can control them individually.
We had an Onan failure and I'm now on a hitch-mounted backup generator for the trip home and I'm on one AC unit.. I shut off the bedroom, clamped the vents on the rear of the coach. It's uncomfortable in front, but bearable... Darn gasser Class-A, you can feel the heat coming in front the floor.
Note, we have no problems keeping the coach cool when sitting. It seems to be the added heating of a 6.8L V10 that is the deal killer.....
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07-26-2012, 07:49 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Polk City Florida
Posts: 1,942
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We keep "Reflectix" on all our windows except of course the front and both driver and pass side. We live in Florida and it keeps the coach very comfortable with just one 15k A/C running. We also travel this way and it works perfectly. Most days with just the dash A/C on its just fine. We were in Nashville with a heat index of 116 and still the same results. We also repainted the A/C covers white to help the efficiency. Why ANY A/C manufacture would make them black is beyond comprehension.
__________________
Don and Nancy
[2018 Tiffin Bus 40 AP, 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee , Sara our family pup, Electric Catrike
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07-26-2012, 07:50 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: DFW, Tex-US
Posts: 6,196
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Maybe you have lost insulation on your engine hatch or it wasn't secured well the last time someone worked on it ?
We had a ford van years ago that they left the shroud somewhat connected...
couldn't tell it was open, but MAN the heat came through...
ended up redoing the seals and installing more barrier between the engine and the doghouse... worked well after that...
Could u temporarly put reflectix or a cheap sun screen in front of your doghouse to sheild some of the heat ? just offering some quick fixes.... good luck !
maybe leave the freezer compartment open
__________________
'11 Monaco Diplomat 43DFT RR10R pushed by a '14 Jeep Wrangler JKU. History.. 5'ers: 13 Redwood 38gk(junk!), 11 MVP Destiny, Open Range TT, Winn LeSharo, C's, popups, vans, tents...
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07-26-2012, 07:56 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mo/Texas
Posts: 3,556
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Our previous mh was the 8.1L gasser in a workhorse chassis. We lined the doghouse cover with this type of self sticking insulation from Summit Racing and the heat problem went away.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...YC-11905&dds=1
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07-26-2012, 08:00 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North East Florida
Posts: 2,166
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I normally just use the dash air until the temps get into the high 90's. seams to be just fine but the coach air does a great job of cooling in my MH. I did run both roof units and the dash air last week, 98 drgrees outside and the temp came down inside pretty fast. I also have a V-10 but don't notice any heat from the dog house.
__________________
2019 Horizon 42Q
Cummins L-9 450 HP
Maxum Chassis / IFS with Tag
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07-26-2012, 08:13 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo
Maybe you have lost insulation on your engine hatch or it wasn't secured well the last time someone worked on it ?
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We've still got foam and a reflective barrier on the hatch... It also comes up through the floor, probably not much you can do when the pavement temps are over 120 and you're pushing 75% throttle...
I could try and re-insulate, but I'm curious as to how the other Class-A gasser's do in these conditions.
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07-26-2012, 08:16 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mo/Texas
Posts: 3,556
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Should be no surprise but that big picture window in front is letting a lot of heat in also, especially if your driving towards it.
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07-26-2012, 08:37 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1000rider
I could try and re-insulate, but I'm curious as to how the other Class-A gasser's do in these conditions.
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OP says he wants comments from only Type A gassers now so I won't post any more.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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07-26-2012, 08:59 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D
OP says he wants comments from only Type A gassers now so I won't post any more.
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Mr. D, I appreciate your opinions, suggestions, and advice... I've owned 2 class-A gassers, but the first one I might have put a total of 300 miles on it... I used it to boondock while building a home.
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