Jack Pad summary

[Dale70]

I made my own jackpads using 2x4's crossed and nailed together. I have eyelets to both place them and retrieve them when using, so I do not need to get under the RV At all. The eyelets fit the awning rod.

I would hesitate to attach anything heavy to the actual pad(foot) of the hydraulic leveler itself. Almost all of these use springs (internal or external) to assist the jack in retracting, and expelling the hydraulic fluid back into a reservoir.
Any significant weight would probably inhibit that process, slowing it down, or perhaps even stopping it from working.

thx Dale

[KC]

Originally Posted by WDW

We have snap pads - no worry and no hassle. Just install and never worry about having to do that job again.

We also have the snap pads, we only camped once last year with them but on a new gravel site they worked well.

KC

[Dave1956]

ok I have a question, aside from extra lift, why do you need jack pads?

[ernest917]

To keep Jack feet from sinking into ground....

[jwmaustin]

And when you provide enough surface area/strength to keep them from sinking then you avoid overextending the jacks as well.

Maybe there are occasions that you need "a little" extra height to keep from overextension even in a normal lift? I'm not sure what the answer to that is.

To the previous poster on "too much weight on the jacks", that's a reasonable question but most of the pads I've seen aren't heavy enough to affect the spring or the travel of the cylinder especially since they are retracted when stored (and they have a lot of travel available). A reasonable thought would be that the jacks are made to manage from 5 to 15 tons so I would guess so a few pounds hanging on them isn't what I would worry about. My worry would be that they hang down too far and catch on obstacles or that they somehow interfere when retracted. Both of those I'd think weren't big deals if done intelligently.

Bill

[jwmaustin]

Originally Posted by drwwicks

Originally Posted by drwwicks View Post
I took some 2x8 about a foot long, drilled a hole in one corner and attached a short length of rope. Retrieving them is a simple matter of pulling the rope. I have had a couple crack so my next remake will add a couple pieces of 1/2" plywood to the 2x8 to sole the cracking problem. Now if I could just solve the "push a rope" issue I'd be set.

Originally Posted by Kxbronco

I'm not much of a carpenter/wood worker so what does the plywood do to stop the cracking? Also, when In use will you have the plywood on on the ground or under the jack?

As far as pushing rope, someone above mentioned drilling holes and using the their awning rod. Should work ok for pushing.

My answer from what has been said is to use the UHMW placstic like DICA. But it is expensive. To the poster questioning adding the plywood: that is to provide lateral reinforcement to help with the 2x8s cracking.

My own idea to add here is that you can use 2 inch lumber and plywood but why not make them rectangular vs. square. It's the surface area that matters so a 2x12x12 pad is 144 sq inches but a 2x8x20 is 320 sq inches. By using the rectangular 2x8 version they can stick out further (closer to the edge of the RV) and the they are more easy to position or retrieve. (maybe 2x8 is not what you like so use some other size but that's not my point)

Thoughts?

Bill

[dieselclacker]

Originally Posted by jwmaustin

My answer from what has been said is to use the UHMW placstic like DICA. But it is expensive. To the poster questioning adding the plywood: that is to provide lateral reinforcement to help with the 2x8s cracking.

My own idea to add here is that you can use 2 inch lumber and plywood but why not make them rectangular vs. square. It's the surface area that matters so a 2x12x12 pad is 144 sq inches but a 2x8x20 is 320 sq inches. By using the rectangular 2x8 version they can stick out further (closer to the edge of the RV) and the they are more easy to position or retrieve. (maybe 2x8 is not what you like so use some other size but that's not my point)

Thoughts?

Bill

Bill, I get your point, but you might want to check your math.

2 X 8 X 20= 160 square inches of SURFACE area. I use 2X8X16 boards under my jacks.

[ernest917]

Verakan....

Two high worked like a charm.... Additional plus - this size is easy to store - I can carry 12 of them in a very small space....

[jwmaustin]

Originally Posted by dieselclacker

Bill, I get your point, but you might want to check your math.



2 X 8 X 20= 160 square inches of SURFACE area. I use 2X8X16 boards under my jacks.

Haha yeah when I did it I thought that looked wrong. I guess I was used to figuring "board feet". :-)

But my point seems well taken...right?

[chunker]

Originally Posted by Kxbronco

I'm not much of a carpenter/wood worker so what does the plywood do to stop the cracking? Also, when In use will you have the plywood on on the ground or under the jack?

As far as pushing rope, someone above mentioned drilling holes and using the their awning rod. Should work ok for pushing.

Plywood since it's laminated spreads the load better and won't crack as easily. I have used the awning rod some, but the rope helps pull it out of the mud if it sinks in.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by Dave1956

ok I have a question, aside from extra lift, why do you need jack pads?

I have been a few places that require a pad under the jacks so the jacks don't damage the asphalt parking pad.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Wayne67vert

I cut 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood and screwed them together for each pad.

I also drilled a hole (bigger than the awning hook) on the top side in each corner. These holes are drilled at an angle so I can use my awning hook to pull them out from under the coach.
Wayne

I used 1" exterior plywood simply because I had some used on-hand, cut it 16" sq.

[veraken]

Originally Posted by ernest917

Verakan....

Two high worked like a charm.... Additional plus - this size is easy to store - I can carry 12 of them in a very small space....

Thanks for the feedback. What kind of surface did you use them on?

[jwmaustin]

I think that's a point not covered much. We all have found various situations we deal with.

1. when parking on grass, dirt, loose fill there is a need for spreading the load to get the jacks to lift
2. in some uneven situations we want to not have one or two jacks overextended
3. when in soft surfaces many of us have had to "dig out" out jacks when they sink
4. when you leave a site many times even on asphalt you can leave an impression
5. for uneven sites the extra height can be helpful
6. as mentioned some campgrounds require it

others?