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Old 04-28-2019, 03:57 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePowells View Post
Scuze me, but I stand corrected and would like to revise and extend my remark.....

$69.99 PLUS $30 shipping = $100 per
He gave the link to 18in dia ones. No need for that. Thw 15 inch are $49, and shipping free with Prime.
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:04 PM   #58
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Gosh, since user I'd change, what a mess to get in. In reply to SnapPads. We took a 15,000 mi trip from FL to AK in a 38 ft moho. (Poor thing).
On return we had to replace a Jack and it's always been miserable to level up. Yes, their hydraulic, yes there's a button. But when we put the Jack's down on large gravel, unlevel dirt, sand, etc. It finally bent 1 up. $1300 later & a tough time with CW, we got the pads.
It's been a year & I wish we had them all along. They seem to float unnoticed but it's so much more secure.
Besides, you get to use another basement for rugs & pads instead of wood & ropes & kneelys. We have simply out aged our knees & no longer need to crawl around & we couldn't take the head trauma of hitting the slides.
You may be young, healthy & have a small coach but it's so much nicer to install & forget about mud & muck
IMO. SYDTR...
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:09 PM   #59
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Home Depot cull bin

Stop at the first Home Depot you encounter. Go to the cull bin. Buy the widest, thickest chunks you find there (preferably pressure treated). Cut them in store to length to reach from RV edge to pad position. Toss them in bottom of lockers nearest jacks. Repeat as necessary.
Caution - if youíre parking where itís soft enough to need a pad, thereís risk that rain or A/C runoff could soften the ground enough to give you either pad or tire (= stuck, and big extrication cost) issues. Iíve plowed furrows with stuck jacks and sunk to axle in an unexpected soft spot.

And the more skill you build at always parking level, the less pad timber you need to carry.
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:09 PM   #60
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Jack Savers

We just installed Daystar Jack Savers on our 2016 Thor Outlaw 37RB. They are easy to install (they are permanent) and not made of rubber so no worries about dry rot like the rubber/recycled tire products. I donít have to crawl under the rig any more to lay down boards! They have tread on the bottom and a large hole to allow water/dirt to fall off the pad. They also have a lifetime warranty. I dealt directly with the manufacturer and one of their techs below. Wayne was great to work with.

Here is the website:
https://www.jacksavers.com/

You can also find them on out main website:
http://www.daystarweb.com/productlisting.php?selYear=&selMake=&selModel=Choo se&txtPartNo=leveling+jack&search.x=0&search.y=0

Wayne Cunningham
Tech Support / eCommerce
841 South 71st Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85043
WCunningham@DaystarWeb.com
623.907.0081 Ext 459 |DID 623.215.0459
623.907.0088 Fax
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:24 PM   #61
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wood blocks

I carry 2 x10 wood if I have to level my class A MH. Front jacks work together ang back are independent of each other so the wood blocks do a fine job when needed
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:45 PM   #62
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We are stepping up from a MBS Class C to a Tiffen 32SA and are looking at jack pads for the auto levelers. Obviously, I would think that any plastic pad is out of the questions, so this puts you into some rubberized version. Dicor seems to be popular, but incredibly expensive for a chunk of rubber with a rope, or am I taking too simple a look? Then, there seems to be the lates, Snap Pads - but I am not too sure as to how these would distribute weight, as the size I would need is the 8" version - but the price is under $100, with a discount. People seem to review the Snap Pad well, but if boondocking, or in a rain soaked area, how would they fare. I would appreciate any and all comments or recommendations.
I sandwiched a piece of 5/8" plywood between 2 pieces of rubber compound cut from a "Stall Mat" $30.00 at TSC stores.
Total investment is under $40.00 for 4 pads.
Works great, going into year 3 with them, no bending, no breaking and money still in the bank!

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Old 04-28-2019, 04:50 PM   #63
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Use Snap pads

Bought them as soon as we bought our Class A. Donít have to worry about hauling anything around. Very happy.
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:53 PM   #64
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HighDesert:


Idaho Poes here. Buy the Snap Pads - you will not regret the purchase. I've had them on my Super C since new (2016) and they are wonderful. When we had the big Class A we used the chunks of wood method. We will never go back to that messy option. We've used the Snap Pads on everything from sand to rock - no problems at all.
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:01 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighDesert View Post
We are stepping up from a MBS Class C to a Tiffen 32SA and are looking at jack pads for the auto levelers. Obviously, I would think that any plastic pad is out of the questions, so this puts you into some rubberized version. Dicor seems to be popular, but incredibly expensive for a chunk of rubber with a rope, or am I taking too simple a look? Then, there seems to be the lates, Snap Pads - but I am not too sure as to how these would distribute weight, as the size I would need is the 8" version - but the price is under $100, with a discount. People seem to review the Snap Pad well, but if boondocking, or in a rain soaked area, how would they fare. I would appreciate any and all comments or recommendations.
We have a 13 ton GvW Class A motorhome on a Ford chassis and have used plastic jack pads for six years with no serious problems. The plastic is easy to clean, doesn't hold dirt, weighs less than wood and does not rot or attract insects.
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:06 PM   #66
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We had a ďTiffinĒ and now a Newmar and only own a set of the cheap plastic pads you can toss under the jacks if needed. We travel all winter and only use them once or twice a year, not worth buying those snap pads in my opinion.
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:28 PM   #67
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Jack pads

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Originally Posted by ThePowells View Post
Treated 2X10 and 4X4 lumber. Cheap, strong, and no big deal if you have to leave something behind.
I did something similar but add a barn door handle so I could easily pull it out or hook it with my fire pit poker. You could use a rope but they get wet and slimy.
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:33 PM   #68
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Can't beat wood if you are agile

We have use 6x6 (what they use out here in CA for building headers) about 2' long with a window pull screwed on the end. Not hard to place with the window pull, but I do wear knee pads. They work well on all sorts of surfaces and provide lift so the leveler never runs out of length. Off and on have found a few extremely out of level sites but the worst is in front of our house. We need the extra lift.
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:35 PM   #69
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I went to my local farm supply store where they sell a dense rubber mat for lining horse stalls. I cut 2 sheets for each Jack. This also gives you some electrical isolation from a ground up lightning strike.
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:41 PM   #70
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Hoss style

I bought a thick industrial work mat much like Hoss Pad material from hardware store. Cut into 12x12 pads. Works well mostly but getting tired of crawling on hands and knees. Love the Jack Saver or snap pad idea. Will be investing in jack savers and may use pad when on bare ground.
Do they work well with PowerGear?
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