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Old 12-29-2016, 06:49 PM   #15
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Heavy equipment has hydraulic pressure pushing the rams both ways. RV's only push out to extend, relying on spring pressure to return. (Edit, apparantely some coaches don't utilize springs - see next log) Read the forums to find posts on folks having to use 2x4's to push/pry their jacks back up, or replace w/heavier springs, because the jacks no longer retract by themselves.

Personally, I use wood blocks under the retracted jacks, and dump the air to lower the coach on the blocks. Cylinders are fully retracted, and off the ground avoiding any splash up. Weight is taken off the tires. It minimizes risk to both cylinder and tires, and costs me next to nothing to do.

That's what great about America....... it's your coach you can store it anyway you'd like to do to it. If you don't think it's worth a couple pieces of wood, just leave it parked on the tires, or store it on the extended jacks.
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:53 PM   #16
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I don't have any springs on my jacks.
Wayne & Roberta and Maggie the Miracle Dog 08 Winnebago Destination 39W Gas UFO Workhorse Chassis...... In life, itís important to know when to stop arguing with people and simply let them be wrong.
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Old 12-30-2016, 01:15 AM   #17
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Many dump truck cylinders are single acting and only push out. The weight of the body pushs them in.
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:56 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Nadge View Post
Storing my newmar ventana over NJ winter, in the open.
Should jacks be down to take some weight off the tires resting on plywood, which has stone base underneath?
Jack feet have 2" X 12" blocks to rest on.
No wrong answer - think about it - if you Snowbird or full time you will be up on the jacks for months at a time - and yes that works but - if you are a summer camper and only use it a few times a year you may just park it - most do just that.

So as you think about it both Work and both are Correct.

Just be sure, if you set the unit on Jacks, that you be sure it does not settle into the ground and freeze (Will make it hard to Move if the jacks don't come up) I tend to use wood for the jacks, lighter and stores/transports better, concrete has generally only lasted one season, as it cracks, while a PT 2x12 will last for years and can be stored in the RV when not in use.

So that's my story on to Jack or not Jack.


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Old 12-30-2016, 08:37 AM   #19
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Lots of Debate on this over the years... This is what I have determined to be the best options.. Yes Options.

Due to hydraulic failure I'm not using my jacks, In stead I am using some solid metal Jack Stands from the auto store and/or Tractor Supply.

They do the same job of "Taking a load off" the springs, but .. Well, the jacks are fully retracted (well all but one, I got to work on that when I get a chance)

Very happy with result.

How I did it when the jacks worked.

Start by lying a wooden block (2x12x12" in my case) under each pad. Extend jacks as far as possible to level properly.. Wipe down shafts with lubricant as described in owner's manual.. THIS IS IMPORTANT.

Now. Two possible retractions Spring, time to go camping.. Wipe 'em down again and retract normally, Pick up blocks and hit the road.....

OR: Decide to go to Las Vegas on Jan 2.. Wipe 'em down if you can (Depends on the snow and ground clearance.. NOTE I can reach my jacks safely without climbing under RV)

Retract.. Pull off.. Tap wood blocks gently with an 8 pound sledge since they are frozen to the ground (Why you put them there after all) Pick 'em up and stow 'em and hit the road jack.. Don't come back till SPRING.

The key is to lubricate when you first store, and before you "un-store" in spring

Note.. If you can't get under on Jan 2 type take off.. Well find a nice clean parking lot (First night layover) and Lube there. BUT LUBE.
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Old 12-31-2016, 02:32 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
Sound advice.

The major manufacturer HWH, claims there is absolutely no harm in leaving the jacks extended. These are hard chrome finished rams an not affected by weather. You may want to crawl under and wipe them off with a spray lube of some sort before retracting them in the spring but leaving them extended is perfectly acceptable.
See attached link below.

silicone spray not WD40 right?
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Old 12-31-2016, 02:46 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
I grew up farming, and like twinboat did not see any rusted hydraulic pistons on equipment that sat totally exposed to the weather (not hidden underneath like on a motorhome) for many months at a time.

My HWH jacks have been down virtually all the time since I bought the coach in 2003 except when driving. I have NEVER sprayed anything on the rams, and I have NEVER wiped down the rams. They are in great condition and have never failed to go up or down when prompted.
X2 I do put blocks below the pads to spread the weight.
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Old 12-31-2016, 02:59 PM   #22
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I stored our '02 DSDP 4090 for 13 winters with the front tires completely off the ground and the rear suspension completely collapsed in order the get the rig level beside the stick house.
When we traded the rig off in 2015 the suspension was still working just fine.
But, I got
Newmars OK
Spartans OK
Koni's OK
Reyco-Granning's OK
Before doing it.
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:20 PM   #23
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Also drive your coach on to plywood, thick carpet or thick rubber when storing. Better for the tires.
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Old 01-01-2017, 04:52 PM   #24
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You can easily take all the weight off the tyres and have the jacks retracted provided you have air suspension and an air dump valve.

With the suspension aired up, pack under each jack with timber to within an inch of each jack pad. Turn off the engine and dump the air. Weight off the tyres, jacks fully retracted and air bags not all scrunched up.
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