Keeping out pests

[chef 57]

Hello all I have a recurring problem with mice chewing up wiring inside walls of precept 31 ul . I have tried glue traps and normal mouse traps they manage not to get caught , I don’t want to poison them if they die in the walls where you can’t find the smell would not be pleasant. There are electronic devices that are supposed to work by just plugging them in has anyone tried them and do they work?

[Russ Silber]

Originally Posted by chef 57

Hello all I have a recurring problem with mice chewing up wiring inside walls of precept 31 ul . I have tried glue traps and normal mouse traps they manage not to get caught , I don’t want to poison them if they die in the walls where you can’t find the smell would not be pleasant. There are electronic devices that are supposed to work by just plugging them in has anyone tried them and do they work?

We use electronic repellent.
Seems to work.glue traps akso worked. Put poison all around in bait boxesm NO MORE MICE.[emoji198]

[Outbound]

I would put out mice bait, I have had good luck with it in my shop/garage, it makes them want to find water, in all the years I have used it only found one indoors.

[Tax_Man]

I use Fresh Cab, Grandpa Gus, and electronic (120v AC) mouse repellents. Works for me..


I get it at Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Menards Home Improvement, etc.


I put a bag and/or spray the basement compartments for water, electric, and any hydraulics. I put a bag in the bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, and cab area. I rotate between the Fresh Cab and Gus's.


I have an electronic repellent in the bedroom and cab area.

[astrnmrtom]

Originally Posted by chef 57

Hello all I have a recurring problem with mice chewing up wiring inside walls of precept 31 ul . I have tried glue traps and normal mouse traps they manage not to get caught , I don’t want to poison them if they die in the walls where you can’t find the smell would not be pleasant. There are electronic devices that are supposed to work by just plugging them in has anyone tried them and do they work?

In a word: No.

Lots of research dollars spent testing things like that and all the data shows they aren't effective.

The industry standard steps are:

Exclusion. (sealing up entry points)
Bait around exterior.
Traps inside.

Rinse and repeat.

Do the best you can going over the rig to try to find where they are entering and seal the holes. Mice can fit through a hole the size of the tip of your little finger.

Place bait stations outside, under the rig - feed them outside, before they enter. I recommend block style bait in a pet/child resistant bait station. Pelleted bait works but often mice will cart it off and stash a pile of it before eating enough to die which wastes bait.

When you place traps make sure they are placed along a wall. If snap traps, place them at 90 degrees to the wall with the bait trigger end against the wall. Bait with peanut butter. If that doesn't work try pet food. If you aren't getting any hits with the traps, move them to a different area. If you have any kind of Rat they will avoid new things in their environment so it can take a while before they'll attempt to take food from a trap.

Ask yourself which is worse? The rare possibility that a mouse will die in your rig and stink it up for a while, or continue to deal with the damage they are doing. Remember, mice leave urine trails to mark their territory, paths, make nests that accumulate feces and urine and if established will breed in your rig. If you have a good infestation your rig will start to smell even if one doesn't die inside.

If there was a simple effective way of repelling mice it would be used all over the world in the food prep, storage, and processing industry and by professional pest control businesses.

Feel free to try an home remedies you like, but also follow the three steps above.

One final fact on baiting: If you are having a lot of rodent problems you probably have what's called: "high pest pressure," which means a large local population. Maintaining bait stations will lower the population and reduce the pest load.

Good luck on your battle. I was in pest control for 16 years and the little devils still occasionally get the best of me. There's been many times I thought I had the upper hand, only to find one had found its way into my coach. The war never ends.

[Ray,IN]

I always have TomCat mouse bait in our MH, I drop in down into wiring and plumbing access holes in the floor, behind lower cabinet drawers, anywhere only mice have access. I've never smelled a dead mouse in the MH since I put out the TomCat bait blocks; no more mice either.
On the preventative side, make sure there is no access to food or water for mice inside your RV, especially during storage.

[rbh44]

Originally Posted by chef 57

Hello all I have a recurring problem with mice chewing up wiring inside walls of precept 31 ul . I have tried glue traps and normal mouse traps they manage not to get caught , I don’t want to poison them if they die in the walls where you can’t find the smell would not be pleasant. There are electronic devices that are supposed to work by just plugging them in has anyone tried them and do they work?

I've used the Electronic (Bell&Howell) for few years & they seemed to work until last winter.I had neglected to get a bag of Dog food out of Basement & that's what they were after.I finally put traps inside & caught 3 Mice.I've looked for every opening small enough that they can get through(small as a Dime they'll get through)& sealed them.Some areas are hard to get to but I'll recheck again before it is stored.Also tried Moth Balls but not sure if they deter Mice or not.Good luck.

Aletta & Ron Hargis
2004 Newmar KSDP
& 1 very loved Scottish Terrier who loves to travel.

[OldDoggy]

Fresh Cab and peppermint oil. Smells good and mice don't like it.

Just Another Old Doggy, Don

[Darin1960]

Originally Posted by astrnmrtom

In a word: No.

Lots of research dollars spent testing things like that and all the data shows they aren't effective.

The industry standard steps are:

Exclusion. (sealing up entry points)
Bait around exterior.
Traps inside.

Rinse and repeat.

Do the best you can going over the rig to try to find where they are entering and seal the holes. Mice can fit through a hole the size of the tip of your little finger.

Place bait stations outside, under the rig - feed them outside, before they enter. I recommend block style bait in a pet/child resistant bait station. Pelleted bait works but often mice will cart it off and stash a pile of it before eating enough to die which wastes bait.

When you place traps make sure they are placed along a wall. If snap traps, place them at 90 degrees to the wall with the bait trigger end against the wall. Bait with peanut butter. If that doesn't work try pet food. If you aren't getting any hits with the traps, move them to a different area. If you have any kind of Rat they will avoid new things in their environment so it can take a while before they'll attempt to take food from a trap.

Ask yourself which is worse? The rare possibility that a mouse will die in your rig and stink it up for a while, or continue to deal with the damage they are doing. Remember, mice leave urine trails to mark their territory, paths, make nests that accumulate feces and urine and if established will breed in your rig. If you have a good infestation your rig will start to smell even if one doesn't die inside.

If there was a simple effective way of repelling mice it would be used all over the world in the food prep, storage, and processing industry and by professional pest control businesses.

Feel free to try an home remedies you like, but also follow the three steps above.

One final fact on baiting: If you are having a lot of rodent problems you probably have what's called: "high pest pressure," which means a large local population. Maintaining bait stations will lower the population and reduce the pest load.

Good luck on your battle. I was in pest control for 16 years and the little devils still occasionally get the best of me. There's been many times I thought I had the upper hand, only to find one had found its way into my coach. The war never ends.

Great advice, not that this will solve the entire problem but I have mice problems at home and recently bought some foam insulation that supposedly stops mice from entering cracks or openings. Just used it last couple months when remodeling my kitchen and a couple of places where I found mice droppings before are clean . With all the points under a coach where various wires, pipes , whatever , I am thinking do what is suggested in this post and perhaps try sealing off any place with this foam I mentioned where you have access.
As far as the eletronic things, have read several sites that say they do not work and that is pretty much my experience. One last this , put away all food stuff in a sealed mouse proof container if possible including dogfood.