Land power

[Miraflo]

We have our 36’ Tropical permanently parked, and have a 30 amp dedicated breaker for our plug in to land power. We are having a problem with blown fuses when we run say the AC and the oven...would it help to put a 50 am breaker in on the land side, or .....?
Please advise, I love the input on this site, you All have helped us soooo much!!
Thanks,
Sandy

[twinboat]

You can't put a bigger fuse in unless the wire can handle it. The fuse protects the wire from overheating and causing a fire.

[Wbago97]

Originally Posted by Miraflo

We have our 36’ Tropical permanently parked, and have a 30 amp dedicated breaker for our plug in to land power. We are having a problem with blown fuses when we run say the AC and the oven...would it help to put a 50 am breaker in on the land side, or .....?
Please advise, I love the input on this site, you All have helped us soooo much!!
Thanks,
Sandy

Estimate that your AC is using 15 amps to run but starts up with more. If you have an RV adsorption fridge, then along with your converter you might be using 6 amps there. Therefore, if you add an electric oven you're easily over 30 amps.

[KanzKran]

Either a) upgrade the panel, inlet, shore cord, receptacle, and breaker, or b) add some sort of load management to stay within the 30A, or c) live with it and manage the loads yourself. Those are the only options I can think of.

[wolfe10]

If your RV is 30 amp, increasing the CG outlet to 50 amps (yes, likely requires upgrading CG wiring) will gain you very little, as the 30 amp breaker in your RV will trip.


Now, if the CG breaker is old and weak, replacing it may be worthwhile.



Said another way, if your "in RV 30 amp main breaker" does not trip, but the CG breaker does, perhaps the CG breaker is weak and tripping before 30 amp load is reached.

[MtCamper]

Easiest solution is don't run the micro and the A/C at the same time. Same rule with the 1500W hairdryer. First world problem, just adapt.

Now the long answer: 30 amp rv has 30 amps of 120v power. 50 amp rv has 100 amps of 120v power. Lots of difference. Get estimates to install a 50 amp service to your site and decide if it's worth it to you. If you run both of your A/Cs at the same time, it is probably a good investment.

[edgray]

Originally Posted by Miraflo

We have our 36’ Tropical permanently parked, and have a 30 amp dedicated breaker for our plug in to land power. We are having a problem with blown fuses when we run say the AC and the oven...would it help to put a 50 am breaker in on the land side, or .....?

Please advise, I love the input on this site, you All have helped us soooo much!!

Thanks,

Sandy

Im thinking a Tropical is a DP. And if so, I would think it has. 50 Amp service. IF you are plugging a 50 amp coach into a 30 amp shore power, you will need to upgrade the shore power to a 4 wire 100 amp service and then you can run multiple appliances without tripping breakers

[Persistent]

Originally Posted by Miraflo

We have our 36’ Tropical permanently parked, and have a 30 amp dedicated breaker for our plug in to land power. We are having a problem with blown fuses when we run say the AC and the oven...would it help to put a 50 am breaker in on the land side, or .....?
Please advise, I love the input on this site, you All have helped us soooo much!!
Thanks,
Sandy

Lots of good advice above!

I assume you mean 30 amp shore power fuse blows. So it is an old shore power system. Modern systems use circuit breakers.

First and foremost, as posted above changing to a 50 amp shore power system requires running new wire in the shore system. Never put a higher capacity fuse in a circuit.

A 30 amp 120 volt system uses a pair of 10 gauge wires for up to 50 feet. There will also probably be a 10 gauge system ground wire for a total of three wires. Longer distances require larger wire (8 gauge).

A 50 amp 240 volt system uses three 8 gauge wires plus a system ground for a total of 4 wires. It requires the service entrance from the power grid to be 240 volts and 50 amps or greater. Longer wire requires larger wire (6 gauge). This system would have two 50 amp fuses or a double pole circuit breaker.

A 50 amp 240 volt shore power system often provides a 50 amp 240 volt outlet, a 30 amp 120 volt outlet, and a 20 amp 120 volt outlet. There would be a circuit breaker for each outlet in a weather proof electrical box or pedestal.

https://www.amazon.com/Connecticut-E...motive&sr=1-17

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schnei...6&s=hi&sr=1-28

There are other shore power arrangements, but they are not common.

[Outbound]

A 50 amp circuit would solve your problems, you will need a minimum of (4) #6 wires depending on length of run to handle 50 amp load. Good luck

[530ktm]

Good advise above. Look at it this way, a 120 volt 30 amp service will give you 3,600 watts of power. If you have a 120 volt 50 amp service you increase the available power to 12,000 watts. A 50 amp service gives you two separate 120 volt lines of 50 amps of power. Of course you need the correct wiring to make this set up correct. Look to see how many watts your equipment takes when starting up, like a 1,500 watt heater. It adds up quickly.

[AnotherMike]

I have a 30 amp MH and discovered that the second AC was wired to the 20 amp circuit of the genny (my genny had two outputs, one was 30+ amps, the other was 20 amps). The 30 amp was to run the MH shore power circuit. With stock MH power wiring there was no way to run the second AC without running the generator.

So I added a 20 amp outlet and plug in line with the second AC, then used a 10 gauge / 20 amp extension cord to just for the AC. I could then run both ACs while parked. I used this on the AC: www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-125-Volt-Straight-Blade-Grounding-Inlet-Outlet-Gray-15378-CWP/301304864
I used a single 20 Amp outlet on the genny, and made a short jumper extension cord that I use while in motion.

Now when i park it I plug 2 separate cords into the poedestal: the original 30 amp MH cord and the 20 amp second AC cord.

I got the idea to do this at an RV park after I saw another gentleman's MH with two cords.

I still pop a breaker if I forget and run the microwave while the AC is running.
So I do manual load management.


On a different web site I saw how a gentleman added a dedicated AC outlet in the bedroom just for a electric heater at night. He has a 15 amp cord just for that outlet.
Someone made a video:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1ZO5RxKoq8

I could do the same thing in the kitchen and plug the microwave into it... Then run a 15 amp cable to the outside.

Mike

[Miraflo]

Thanks for all y’all’s input...most of it sorta makes sense, but am confused by the initials DP and CG...what do those stand for please..?
The think those posts would make more sense if I knew...
Thanks,
Sandy

[Down South]

DP=Diesel Pusher
CG=Campground

Exactly what is tripping or blowing a fuse? Is it at the pedestal or a breaker in the RV?
As others have said, 30 Amps won't pull everything in your RV at once. For instance, My MH=motorhome is 30A. I can't run a microwave, electric water heater and AC at the same time. I have to play musical appliances.
In other words, turn something off to run something else. I have a progressive EMS=Electrical Management System. I can see my load and know when I need to shut an appliance off.
I'm assuming a couple things. You mentioned installing a 50A breaker. Is your RV a 50A RV? Are you using a dogbone=adapter to go from a 50A RV cord to a 30A breaker at the pedestal?

If your RV is a 30A RV, installing a 50A breaker at the pedestal will not cure an overload condition.
If your RV is a 50A RV, then yes, installing a 50A breaker would most likely solve your problem. But, do you have 50A wiring to the pedestal?

As mentioned, if your RV is 30A and the 30A pedestal breaker is tripping, the breaker may be weak and in need of replacement with a new 30A breaker.

What would be nice is, if you had an EMS or other device that you could see exactly what your electrical load is at a glance.

[Miraflo]

Thanks Down South for the clarification...tripping or blowing a breaker refers to the RV breakers, where whatever is on that breaker loses power and I have to turn the breaker all the way off, then back on again.
The folks we bought the Tropical from say “ A 50 amp breaker is better but the unit can only handle 30 amps at one time. The 50 amp has a better connection and less line loss. If any breaker gets over 20 amps it will trip the breaker. To avoid this plug the toaster into a plug on a different circuit. You may have to use trial and error to find an outlet on a different circuit. It is also possible that you have a weak breaker that needs to be replaced.”...and that the current power cord from the RV is 30 amps...I guess that’s what you mean by the pedestal?
Anyway, all, the conclusion we are coming to is that it might be sketchy & not work to replace the 30 amp breaker in the yard with a 50 amp breaker and, since it’s a new panel, it sounds like it would be better to install a couple new breakers into that panel run new, independent plugs out to posts beside the RV for extra power as was suggested by a few if you.
Hope I got all this right, you guys are all so smart & helpful!!