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Old 03-22-2023, 06:05 PM   #1
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Leak on air tank inlet body weld

I have a 2008 American Coach Tradition which has a pretty significant air leak at the weld of one of the hose connections (hose going to the primary tank, downstream of check valve). I am not sure this is the only leak but it is the big leak.

I am evaluating options to remedy this and one of my thoughts is can this be welded to repair the failed weld? Other than that it would be about $270 worth of new tank and shipping.

Looking at the space to work in under the coach, it is pretty tight. What are my options for elevating this safely? Under any circumstances can the leveling system be used? I am not seeing any warning in the Fleetwood coach manual regarding this but I'm sure the forum members know the answer.

TIA
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Old 03-22-2023, 07:10 PM   #2
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Follow up to my post. I am not going to attempt the weld repair option. After thinking a bit more on this, being able to do an integrity test on it will be near impossible if not just extremely challenging. Also given the fact a weld has failed, the chance of one of the other 5 fittings failing are a deterrent. Best start new and do it once.

Still interested in the working clearnance question.
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Old 03-22-2023, 07:14 PM   #3
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You can raise the coach with levelers but you then need to put quality jack stands under the frame to protest yourself before getting under it. Make sure they are rated for the weight they will be supporting and yes a steel tank can be welded. Its best to use a certified welder for that type of repair.
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Old 03-22-2023, 08:31 PM   #4
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I think you are thinking correctly, the air brake system of the MH depends on compressed air, I too would replace the tank.
Do not depend on the leveling jacks to work under the MH. Years ago in N. Indiana an RV technician died when the MH he was under lost air pressure, pinning him until he suffocated. He had been missing during lunch so co-workers went searching and found him dead.
This happened because he did not follow safety protocol and use jack stands or wood cribbing to support the weight of the coach.
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Old 03-22-2023, 09:21 PM   #5
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Chuck,
Just because you think you've got a failed weld, doesn't mean THEY'RE ALL GONNA fail on that tank. If you get a blowout or a flat on one tire, doesn't mean they're all gonna have a flat or blowout. If you have bulb go bad in the coach, doesn't mean all the bulbs are gonna quit.

If you've analyzed the failure point, and you think you're gonna replace the tank, then obviously the original tank needs to be removed, correct? So, what would be the problem with doing a thorough cleaning of the failure point and doing a re-weld on it? That's if in fact, there is a failed weld problem and not just a bad seal on some threads. Then, get a couple of plugs for the other ports and do a pressure test on the bench? That's what I'd do. But that's just me.

Scott
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Old 03-23-2023, 09:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Chuck,
Just because you think you've got a failed weld, doesn't mean THEY'RE ALL GONNA fail on that tank. If you get a blowout or a flat on one tire, doesn't mean they're all gonna have a flat or blowout. If you have bulb go bad in the coach, doesn't mean all the bulbs are gonna quit.

If you've analyzed the failure point, and you think you're gonna replace the tank, then obviously the original tank needs to be removed, correct? So, what would be the problem with doing a thorough cleaning of the failure point and doing a re-weld on it? That's if in fact, there is a failed weld problem and not just a bad seal on some threads. Then, get a couple of plugs for the other ports and do a pressure test on the bench? That's what I'd do. But that's just me.

Scott

Pressure testing with air is making a bomb. To pressure test any vessel correctly requires testing with water pressure at proof-testing pressure for the required amount of time.
I seriously doubt he has that equipment or can find anyone who has, and will perform such a test for less than a new tanks will cost.
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Old 03-23-2023, 09:43 AM   #7
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I had to work on my air system and my jacks would not lift the coach high enough let alone raise the axles.

So I built 6 ramps out of 2X10's cut 42, 36, 30, 24" long, stacked and screwed them together. I did add a block on four of them for the rear wheels is would help from driving off. Elevates the coach 6" which was plenty for me to be able get around and work on the coach with the air system drained. But you can also work under with the air system charged to be able to check for other leaks. I ended up having problems with a couple of the fittings and had to replace so being able to get underneath and check with air in the system was a plus.


Something to check, I had to replace all 4 of my PPV's they all started leaking on the same trip, which seemed odd. I took them all apart and the springs were really corroded. Also, they were originally installed upside down, the vent hole is to be pointed down, mine were all pointed up meaning any moisture would be trapped. But after ~20 years I guess it was time.
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Old 03-24-2023, 07:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Chuck,
Just because you think you've got a failed weld, doesn't mean THEY'RE ALL GONNA fail on that tank. If you get a blowout or a flat on one tire, doesn't mean they're all gonna have a flat or blowout. If you have bulb go bad in the coach, doesn't mean all the bulbs are gonna quit.

If you've analyzed the failure point, and you think you're gonna replace the tank, then obviously the original tank needs to be removed, correct? So, what would be the problem with doing a thorough cleaning of the failure point and doing a re-weld on it? That's if in fact, there is a failed weld problem and not just a bad seal on some threads. Then, get a couple of plugs for the other ports and do a pressure test on the bench? That's what I'd do. But that's just me.

Scott
If the weld failed due to poor QC or a competency problem with the welder, chances are some of the other 6 welded connections will have a problem in time. I havent pulled the tank yet as I'm waiting to get resolution from the dealer on whether they'll replace it or not, but to me it's not that great a cost differential to warrent not just replacing with new. And as others have stated, conduting the pressure test is another challenge and another cost. Thanks for the insight.
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Old 03-24-2023, 08:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN;6453444[B
]Pressure testing with air is making a bomb.[/B] To pressure test any vessel correctly requires testing with water pressure at proof-testing pressure for the required amount of time.
I seriously doubt he has that equipment or can find anyone who has, and will perform such a test for less than a new tanks will cost.
"A bomb"????????????
Uhhhh, does that mean every single vehicle/truck/motorhome/school bus/train and anything else that rolls on this earth with 120 psi air systems are all toting BOMBS??????????

No one said to test it to 10,000 psi. The tanks in our coaches see 120 psi 24/7/365 so, a bench test from 0 to anywhere near 120 would reveal if a fix or re-weld was successful or not. And the assumption that it's likely that ALL the welds on all fittings/bungs are bad because ONE had a problem, well, if that's what you decide, do what you feel is right for you. But one more thing. That is, if you're thinking that it's likely possible that the rest of the welds *could* be faulty on that tank, then since the chassis was built with multiple tanks, then it would be assumed that since they all should be the same era and, quite possibly the same batch or welder that did the work, then failure could be eminent in the other tank fittings too, correct?

Again, this is your coach, do what you feel you need to accomplish your goal.
Scott
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Old 03-25-2023, 07:24 AM   #10
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Your frame is welded in a hundred places as well. If you lucky enough to find the exact tank for the that price than go for it. Certain welding shops may not weld a certified tank either. I wouldn't be too worried to have fitting rewelded. If the tank was rusted or seam was splitting for unknown reason that would more of a concern.
You want to thread a plug in the fitting or nearby open ones with some never seize .
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Old 03-26-2023, 05:30 PM   #11
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Lots of overthinking going on here.
It it is leaking and you know of a decent welder / brazer, get it fixed.
Not rocket science and certainly not a "bomb".

You drain the tank, remove the fitting, wire wheel the tank, weld or braze it, clean the weld, paint, replace the fittings and enjoy the ride.
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