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Old 11-18-2014, 09:14 AM   #1
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LED Step Lights Fell Off

I had affixed a set of LED strip lights to the underside of the metal housing for my awning using the peel off adhesive backing on the lights, cleaned the metal well before sticking them on. That was a couple of weeks ago.

We had a really humid day in the 60’s yesterday with heavy condensation on all exterior surfaces, then temperature’s plugged below freezing overnight.

The stripe lights had fallen off this morning.

Any suggestions for an adhesive that I could apply to the back of the LEDs to stick them up again? It would have to be something that is tacky enough to hold the weight of the LED strip on the underside of the awning. Would also want to be able to pull them off without damage in the even the lights fail sometime in the future.

Thanks,

John
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Old 11-18-2014, 09:20 AM   #2
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Hi temp silicone from NAPA...clear or black. Just a dab about every six inches will do it.
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:03 AM   #3
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I am going to try the two sided window glass setting tape in a different led application.

When I replaced a double pane house window glass, the old tape was a bear to remove.

Use some denatured alchohol to clean the metal or fibeglass before applying a double sided tape.
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:15 AM   #4
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When I converted all my neon interior lights to led strips many people were complaining that the sticky back tape fails with heat. I elected to put a dab of Household Goop every few inches and after a year have not had anything come loose. Reasonably cheap and readily available. Fixed my tennis shoes with it too.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:47 PM   #5
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I put mine on with automotive tape from ebay ( 3M 5952 VHB tape 40'X1/4" double sided acrylic foam automotive mounting adhesive) It's been on there for about a year now. I just peeled off the paper covering on the tape on the LED strip and put this on it. I had a similar experience.. I put up a strip out by our pool bbq area and after a day, it was on the ground. I put this foam tape on and it's been up ever since as well as on the motorhome.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panjh View Post
i put mine on with automotive tape from ebay ( 3m 5952 vhb tape 40'x1/4" double sided acrylic foam automotive mounting adhesive) it's been on there for about a year now. I just peeled off the paper covering on the tape on the led strip and put this on it. I had a similar experience.. I put up a strip out by our pool bbq area and after a day, it was on the ground. I put this foam tape on and it's been up ever since as well as on the motorhome.

DITTO ! I use the body side molding tape from a local auto paint supplier.
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:00 PM   #7
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DITTO ! I use the body side molding tape from a local auto paint supplier.
X3.

There's no way the adhesive on the peel and stick leds will hold very long. This mounting tape is great.

Rick
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:14 PM   #8
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I used a double sided tape by 3M from Home Depot that was rated to hold 25 lbs/sq. inch. I cut in in half lengthwise. Sticks really well. A friend had the same issue you are having. He used the same 3m heavy duty double sided tape and has had no issues. Good luck!
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:36 AM   #9
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Thanks for the replies, I've ordered some of the 3M tape from Amazon.

I really like the LED strips, I have one on the outer edge of the awning, but it is secured in a channel, so no adhesive was needed. I found that when the awning is extended, it projects more light out, so want the second strip mounted on the coach wall so it will light under the awning.

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Old 11-19-2014, 09:57 AM   #10
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I used 120v rope light instead of LEDs but attached them to the housings of both slide toppers and the underside of the storage bays. Really liked the way it provided light around the coach at night and even helped keep unwanted critters from venturing under the rig at night.

Rick
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:14 AM   #11
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RickO - Where did you get the power for your LED lights. That is currently my sticking point. I want to do the LED strip lights on the rail the the awning mounts to, as well as a strip under the coach. The strip under the coach is easy to install and supply power to. The strip on the awning rail is giving me a run for my money. I have an outside light about 14" below the awning rail, and would ideally like to get power from there. Its covering that 14 inche gap that is the problem.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
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RickO - Where did you get the power for your LED lights. That is currently my sticking point. I want to do the LED strip lights on the rail the the awning mounts to, as well as a strip under the coach. The strip under the coach is easy to install and supply power to. The strip on the awning rail is giving me a run for my money. I have an outside light about 14" below the awning rail, and would ideally like to get power from there. Its covering that 14 inche gap that is the problem.
Getting 129v power to the outside of the coach is the challenge.

The strip mounted under the coach is hard wired through a hole I drilled in the entertainment bay to tap the power. No problem there.

I never had the "guts" to attempt to run 120v through the slides to the outside of the coach though so the two upper strips require the ladder and hooking them up with some custom extension cords I made. It does have a clean appearance once installed but requires me to hook them up manually.

Once connected, the outside rope lights are controlled via a six station wireless controller I installed in the coach. It also controls rope accent lighting I've installed throughout the interior.

Rick
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:36 AM   #13
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I thought about running the wires down they awning arm chanel (down the side of the coach) and then making a removeable connection like you did. At least that way I wouldn't have to use a ladder every time. I am VERY hesitant to drill a hole in the side of the coach, without knowing what's behing there. With my luck, I would drill straight into abundle of wires. My one saving grace is, directly over the door, I have a panel with the step switch, awning switch, slide switch, tank monitor and the EMS. So if I drop that panel, I can see what's behind it. I may be able to install another switch in that panel and grab a power supply as well. That of course is the best case senario.
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