Level?

[Zigzag03]

Ever since I replaced my cooling unit in my Dometic fridge, and all the associated reading that went along with that, I've been paying a lot more attention to being level, especially if the fridge is on. My HRH leveler panel lights a light when one side or end is low, but it really seems to have pretty loose tolerances. I use a level, but honestly, every place in the cabin that I use it I get a different reading. I stick to fixed counters, and for fore/aft I use the top edge of the refrigerator trim, but really, it looks like a total crap shoot to me. Suggestions from this knowledgeable group please? And thank you...

Edit: The tolerances I've read for how out-of-level an absorption fridge can be are quite tight, a matter of a couple three degrees, which I guess is the cause of my concern.

[av8tor2]

I learned the bathroom door trick and use it to set the baseline for the auto level. It wasn't even close to a level baseline from the dealer when we took delivery. It is now. The procedure for establishing true level as a baseline should be in your owner's manual. I have the Lipert system, and am not familiar with yours. Perhaps someone else who does have that system, can give you a more complete answer.

[oscarvan]

Yes, mohos are twisted. Fridge doesn't care about a few degrees. Average out the important surfaces.....counter, table.

[TonyMac]

I ran my Norcold 1200LRIM fridge for a month with the nose significantly down, while it was parked in my driveway. I thought I had turned it off, I had not. That was three years ago. Still works great! I have two fans in the top of the exhaust stack and the "don't burn the rig down" mod done. Level is a subjective term, where close enough is close enough, way more than a few degrees. Now I want to put a level on it and figure out how out of level it is because it's very visibly out of level but, evidently, still within tolerances.

[Jake21]

Originally Posted by av8tor2

I learned the bathroom door trick and use it to set the baseline for the auto level. It wasn't even close to a level baseline from the dealer when we took delivery. It is now. The procedure for establishing true level as a baseline should be in your owner's manual. I have the Lipert system, and am not familiar with yours. Perhaps someone else who does have that system, can give you a more complete answer.

Funny. We do the same. I use a level app on the phone, but the door is the final tell.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Dometic says only that the RV needs to level enough to comfortably live in. For most people, that is within a degree or two in all directions.


A tilt of 3 degrees means one end of a typical RV is 10-15 inches higher than the other. You would probably realize that.

[egwilly]

We too finalize the level with the "moving on its own" door trick.
Works like a charm!

[TonyMac]

My book says 3 degrees side to side, 6 degrees front to back. My fridge is mounted so the front doors of the fridge faces the driver side of the coach. My fridge's side to side is my rig's fore and aft and vice-versa. My head hurts.

[EdInArk]

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer

Dometic says only that the RV needs to level enough to comfortably live in. For most people, that is within a degree or two in all directions.


A tilt of 3 degrees means one end of a typical RV is 10-15 inches higher than the other. You would probably realize that.

In our first rig I used the floor of the freezer and a spirit level to level the rig. Then I checked a countertop near it and determined that it agreed and used the countertop from then on rather than empty the freezer every time.

I agree with Gary, though. Use whatever method you prefer to get it close enough to be comfortable, and the fridge will be fine.

[Spdracr39]

Originally Posted by Zigzag03

Ever since I replaced my cooling unit in my Dometic fridge, and all the associated reading that went along with that, I've been paying a lot more attention to being level, especially if the fridge is on. My HRH leveler panel lights a light when one side or end is low, but it really seems to have pretty loose tolerances. I use a level, but honestly, every place in the cabin that I use it I get a different reading. I stick to fixed counters, and for fore/aft I use the top edge of the refrigerator trim, but really, it looks like a total crap shoot to me. Suggestions from this knowledgeable group please? And thank you...

Edit: The tolerances I've read for how out-of-level an absorption fridge can be are quite tight, a matter of a couple three degrees, which I guess is the cause of my concern.

Those degree numbers sound really tiny but in reality if you are out of level by enough to exceed those numbers it will feel like walking around in a funhouse.

[CIDE]

Since it's the fridge that cares about level, use the fridge surfaces for your level - across and front to back. Once I have the fridge level, I'll put those stick on arced bubble levels on the front and side of the fridge and use them.

[Outbound]

CIDE make sense on how to level refrigerator, level coach and then use refrigerator adjusting feet to level refrig, set refrig levels to that setting, should work

[SSTraveler]

My Dometic Refrigerator manual says the Refrigerator needs to be level within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back. So if you consult a slope table that equates to being off by 5/8" per foot and 1.25" per foot, respectively. So on my 25ft motorhome Refrigerator location that correlates to a little over 3" off side to side and more than 12" off front to back, bottomline super uncomfortably off level for humans. So a good rule of thumb is, "if it's comfortable for humans it's comfortable for the Refrigerator."

[Zigzag03]

Thanks all, SST that sounds like a reasonable theory, and I like the stick on bubble level idea, hadn't thought of that. And the bathroom door I wouldn't have said was conclusive, but experienced folk have shown here that it prolly ain't too far off. Thanks again all.