|
07-01-2021, 12:05 PM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 349
|
Levelegs...leveling with drill
Can Levelegs be used with a drill to only retract or can you extend them with a drill if needed?
Reason I'm asking is mine are giving me more grief than they're worth. I had to disconnect the controller and keypad this morning because I couldn't get them to stop ratcheting or clear any errors. I plan to get them replaced with a new system. I have a trip planned and I'm curious if I can level with a drill, despite the hassle.
Thanks
Jim58
__________________
2005 Fleetwood Bounder 32W (Workhorse)
Retired Air Force
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
07-01-2021, 12:17 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Clovis NM
Posts: 4,389
|
The manual method runs the pump, turn one way, it extends, the other way, it retracts. You will have to manually open the valve(s) on the legs you want to extend, and then close them when extended. I realize this isn't your system, but the concept is the same.
__________________
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 35'with 5 Star Tuner. 3 200 Amp Lithium batteries and 2000 watt PSW inverter/charger. 2013 Elantra on a Master Tow dolly.
Retired USAF
|
|
|
07-01-2021, 12:19 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Clovis NM
Posts: 4,389
|
__________________
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 35'with 5 Star Tuner. 3 200 Amp Lithium batteries and 2000 watt PSW inverter/charger. 2013 Elantra on a Master Tow dolly.
Retired USAF
|
|
|
07-01-2021, 03:56 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 349
|
No pump on these. Atwood levelegs
__________________
2005 Fleetwood Bounder 32W (Workhorse)
Retired Air Force
|
|
|
07-01-2021, 04:16 PM
|
#5
|
Registered User
Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 879
|
I would highly consider simply not using them for your upcoming trip. I would purchase some drive-up leveling ramps which are not hard to use really and fix or replace what you have when you have more time. I looked at the link HarryStone shared, it takes 500 revolutions to lower your leveler 1", that would take a while and I suspect that if you go to fast (rpm's) with your drill that you a risk of causing other issues. You certainly wouldn't want an issue where you can't raise the legs when it it time to go. ~CA
|
|
|
07-01-2021, 06:19 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 349
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigav
I would highly consider simply not using them for your upcoming trip. I would purchase some drive-up leveling ramps which are not hard to use really and fix or replace what you have when you have more time. I looked at the link HarryStone shared, it takes 500 revolutions to lower your leveler 1", that would take a while and I suspect that if you go to fast (rpm's) with your drill that you a risk of causing other issues. You certainly wouldn't want an issue where you can't raise the legs when it it time to go. ~CA
|
I wish it was that easy. I full time so having reliable legs is a must for the slide outs. I was going to try to find a shop out west to install them but the rep I talked to at Quadra didn't have a recommendation for a reliable installer between Texas and California. I will keep hoping I can find someone to do the install or maybe go with a different vendor. Until then it's going to have to be a struggle.
Thanks for the feedback.
Jim58
__________________
2005 Fleetwood Bounder 32W (Workhorse)
Retired Air Force
|
|
|
07-01-2021, 07:49 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Clovis NM
Posts: 4,389
|
They are electric? then
Manual Override
• To Manually Extend or Retract Leveler, use a 1/2˝ socket on Drive
Nut on end of motor (FIG 11).
Rotate nut counter clock-wise (looking from bottom end of nut
[FIG 11) to extend leveler.
NOTE: It takes 500 revolutions of nut to extend/retract leveler 1˝.
__________________
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 35'with 5 Star Tuner. 3 200 Amp Lithium batteries and 2000 watt PSW inverter/charger. 2013 Elantra on a Master Tow dolly.
Retired USAF
|
|
|
07-02-2021, 07:12 AM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 349
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryStone
They are electric? then
Manual Override
• To Manually Extend or Retract Leveler, use a 1/2˝ socket on Drive
Nut on end of motor (FIG 11).
Rotate nut counter clock-wise (looking from bottom end of nut
[FIG 11) to extend leveler.
NOTE: It takes 500 revolutions of nut to extend/retract leveler 1˝.
|
Thanks. The reason I asked is I never read anything about someone using the drill to extend. I will give it a try with drill and maybe run an extension cord to each motor and try that as well. Thanks for the response.
Jim58
__________________
2005 Fleetwood Bounder 32W (Workhorse)
Retired Air Force
|
|
|
07-02-2021, 01:50 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marshfield, WI
Posts: 719
|
Like others have said, the quick answer is “Yes” you can manually operate the level legs to extend.
Rather than use a battery powered drill I prefer to use my DeWalt battery powered impact driver. It spins up faster and I don't think it's as heavy when you're working on your back.
A word of caution about extending one leveler at a time too much. The automatic system always operates 2 legs at a time to level so the chassis won't get twisted out of shape.
If the twist gets bad enough, windshields have been known to pop out or break.
The BAMA Electronics conversion is a cheap alternative if all your level motors are good. It replaces the control board and allows you to operate the jacks remotely. It's not automatic but you have the option of running 2 jacks to level and not twist the chassis.
Good luck.
__________________
Denny, Connie & Shadow (former barn cat made good)
2006 Tiffin Phaeton, Cat C7, Freightliner Chassis
|
|
|
07-02-2021, 04:12 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,687
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jim58
I wish it was that easy. I full time so having reliable legs is a must for the slide outs. I was going to try to find a shop out west to install them but the rep I talked to at Quadra didn't have a recommendation for a reliable installer between Texas and California. I will keep hoping I can find someone to do the install or maybe go with a different vendor. Until then it's going to have to be a struggle.
Thanks for the feedback.
Jim58
|
Quadra are great - but you better have them installed at their factory. I had a nightmare experience at R&RRV in Liberty Lake WA. Their "Quadra Specialist" (their words) did not know how to select the proper crimp-on connector for a given bolt size, how to properly run and secure wire using zip ties, how to choose the correct bolt head for mounting a flat control panel (used flat head which broke the plastic control panel - exposing and cracking the control panel - ON ALL FOUR CORNERS since it was not noticed on the first corner!), could not bother to clean up metal and plastic shavings as well as copious spilled hydraulic fluid all over my coach batteries and did not know to provide protectors where wire and hydraulic lines went through newly drilled metal supports. Quadra was good, stood by the product and gave replacement parts for what R&RRV managed to destroy as they learned on my dime.
Luckily, we had time to turn around mid trip once I started seeing the amateurish job that had been foisted on us. When we returned to R&RRV for correction of the mechanical, electrical and hydraulic issues and adult was assigned to oversee what was being corrected.
Needless to say, I did a thorough inspection before leaving. And, even after that, the next day I happened to notice another spot where a connector for a 3/8" stud was on a 1/4" stud - great, just great.
Am I being subtle?
Love the Quadra BigFoot - hate the "repair professionals."
__________________
2008 Phaeton 36QSH, Safe-t-Plus, Quadra Bigfoot
2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk w/ flat tow wiring mod.
Blue ox, BrakeMaster + BrakeAway, diode lights and charge.
|
|
|
07-08-2021, 04:51 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 349
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Domo
Quadra are great - but you better have them installed at their factory. I had a nightmare experience at R&RRV in Liberty Lake WA. Their "Quadra Specialist" (their words) did not know how to select the proper crimp-on connector for a given bolt size, how to properly run and secure wire using zip ties, how to choose the correct bolt head for mounting a flat control panel (used flat head which broke the plastic control panel - exposing and cracking the control panel - ON ALL FOUR CORNERS since it was not noticed on the first corner!), could not bother to clean up metal and plastic shavings as well as copious spilled hydraulic fluid all over my coach batteries and did not know to provide protectors where wire and hydraulic lines went through newly drilled metal supports. Quadra was good, stood by the product and gave replacement parts for what R&RRV managed to destroy as they learned on my dime.
Luckily, we had time to turn around mid trip once I started seeing the amateurish job that had been foisted on us. When we returned to R&RRV for correction of the mechanical, electrical and hydraulic issues and adult was assigned to oversee what was being corrected.
Needless to say, I did a thorough inspection before leaving. And, even after that, the next day I happened to notice another spot where a connector for a 3/8" stud was on a 1/4" stud - great, just great.
Am I being subtle?
Love the Quadra BigFoot - hate the "repair professionals."
|
Getting to MI isn't possible. Looked at HWH but they dont make an aftermarket system for Workhorse chassis newer than 2001.
__________________
2005 Fleetwood Bounder 32W (Workhorse)
Retired Air Force
|
|
|
07-25-2021, 12:07 AM
|
#12
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 6
|
I retracted mine with a cordless drill today. (control panel dead). There is very little resistance on the 1/2" nut. The battery drill had no problem. I kept the speed moderate, and it took about 5 minutes per leg. I haven't tried to extend them yet. My PROBLEM now is that my airbags deflated when the Atwood controller failed, probably because of a jumpstart with a booster device. I'm wondering if anyone has fried their Atwood control box by jump starting?
|
|
|
07-25-2021, 03:01 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,687
|
If your LL is "clutching" when you extend or retract them using the control panel - they will do the same thing if you're using your drill. The drill merely acts like the motor and the clutch will still slip.
As an aside - if the control panel is the problem, you can disconnect the two wires to the LL motor and directly connect +12 (or -12, depending on which way you want the LL to go - extend vs. retract).
If you're going to do this - please use some kind of extension wire that allows you to apply that voltage without being under the coach!
The same wires should be available at the control board and can be disconnected (or cut, since the board has failed) and you could install simple manual dp dt momentary switches - one for each LL and then do your own manual leveling... You'd want the switches to only make contact when you are pressing in one direction of the other... The wiring is easy to figure out...hence the double-pole, double-throw of the switch. The photo I've attached shows one that already has the "reverse" bars installed so you only need to hook up the lines to the motor and to powers - the switch then does the "direction reversing" for you. It's (mom-On)- OFF - (mom-ON) switch rated for 30 Amps at 12 volts - the switch itself is a simply toggle but I'm only showing the underside since the cross bars are the key to making this work.
__________________
2008 Phaeton 36QSH, Safe-t-Plus, Quadra Bigfoot
2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk w/ flat tow wiring mod.
Blue ox, BrakeMaster + BrakeAway, diode lights and charge.
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|